pumbaa 0 Posted August 19, 2010 Ok so here's how things stand at the moment. I changed the cams for standard abf ones, this seemed to make the car almost drivable but hasn't really solved the problem. She still hesitates a lot when moving off but when I very slowly pull the throttle the revs will pick up perfectly. Which leads me to believe there could be something wrong with the fuel pressure regulator or the vacuum system. I'm gonna try taking all the vacuum gubbins apart and check and re-fit. Does anyone know which way round the 2 pipes that go into the rubber elbow that goes into the throttle body go? As there is a 'thingy' inside the elbow I'm guessing they go round a certain way. Thanks, Kunaal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted August 19, 2010 don't think it matters chap, it's just a thermostatic switch, which presumably opens/closes the 'circuit' at a certain temp, think it's to operate the flap inside the airbox to allow warm air from around the exhaust manifold into the airbox on cold days. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gareth_16V 0 Posted August 20, 2010 On my 9a the two pipes in the throttle body elbow run to the back of the MFA (one nearest the bulkhead) and the airbox to move the warm air flap as David says. There aren't any electronics in the elbow itself. Have you had anyone set up the idle mixture? HTH Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aust 0 Posted August 21, 2010 hi mate i had a similar problem to yours with my mk1 gti, i changed the metering head over and it run sweet as nut. hope this helps. i feel your pain with your valver, mines getting on my tits at the moment :bad-words: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pumbaa 0 Posted August 22, 2010 Thanks, i thought swapping the pipes round would make a difference but worth a try! I've changed the metering head already and it still has the same problem. By 'setting up the idle mixture' do you mean adjusting the 3mm allen screw on the head? If so, yes, i set it up on the old metering head but then changed it for an un-tampered one as i discovered this is factory set on the 9a and shouldn't be altered. I'm trying to get hold of a new fuel pressure regulator to give that a try. Anyone able to help me out? Also anyone know what the 2 plugs with a rubber pipe between them on the back of the airbox are and could this be a source of any problem? Cheers, Kunaal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pumbaa 0 Posted September 8, 2010 Update: She breathes life once more!!!! A MASSIVE thanks for all your help and advise guys and to Dave at DGAutotech who gave me some sound advise over the phone. Without this forum i don't know where i'd be right now. I will now definitely be going to DG for a setup even though they are over 100 miles away! Turns out it was 2 sets of dodgy injectors. I should have listened to Davidwort and done a spray pattern test but i got a little scared and just changed the injectors for another reconditioned set. Lesson Learnt - NEVER buy reconditioned CIS-E injectors! It simply cannot be done without damaging them. I have fallen back in love with the C, she drives as smooth as a new car and has some serious new found power. I may try putting my dodgy cam setup back in and see how she pulls... Hope this thread helps someone else with their 9a woes. Anyways, i cant thank you enough and if a mod could tell me how to make a donation i will gladly do so! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted September 8, 2010 glad you've got it sorted :) CrazyDave (DG) told me some time ago how nicely K-Jet/KE-Jet cars run on brand new injectors, from what I understand the needles in the injectors actually wear and the injectors should ideally be replaced at around 80K. Ultrasonic cleaning won't make any difference to a worn CIS injector, seems much more effective on modern electronic injectors but then detergents in modern fuels should keep them clean anyway. I have to admit I'm not "eating my own dog food" here because I have 165K injectors on my car :lol: I think one of the reasons people don't change them is wear initially affects starting and idling and it's fairly subtle at first, so injectors go well past their best before they cause enough trouble to seriously affect driving. You should get much better mpg now too. Another good experience to remember to help others out with in the future too :) C-forum pledge drive thread viewtopic.php?f=18&t=26992 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted September 8, 2010 excellent news :) reading swompy's thread DG are trialling a modified map on his car, gotta be worth considering whilst you're there too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pumbaa 0 Posted September 8, 2010 will deffo look into the remap. I haven't got new injectors, just put the old ~140k ones back in and she runs fine. I will be getting some new ones as soon as i can justify spending £140 or manage to wangle some for free out of eurocarparts. Then its off to DG for a tune up. Im guessing its best to replace the injectors first rather than after the tune up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites