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DEL VR6

Misfiring.... More help needed.........

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EDIT:

 

You can ignore the bit below because:

 

I have changed the coilpack for a brand new item from BERU and there is absolutely no change and it still misfires the way it was before.

 

I have not changed the plugs or leads.

 

The misfire is only on idle OR when you put a high load of the engine i.e. low speed in a high gear or just feathering the throttle in a higher gear with low speed.

 

When you are accelerating normally or hard, and going through the gears, the car is completely normal and has all its engine power and all 6 cylinders are firing.

 

:help:

 

 

Morning people.

 

As the title asks really.

 

I'm trying to cure my misfire on the VR.

 

Spoke to a few off you on here in person @ Tatton Park and this seems like the thing to try first seeing we don't think it's plugs or leads at this stage.

 

So, can anyone tell me how to change the coil pack with a bit of a step by step guide so that i do it without breaking anything and not undoing anything i dont need to.

 

As always, thanks in advance.

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Edit:

 

Looks like a case of (battery off first)... taking the cover thing off that the leads slot into followed by 4 allen key bolts being removed.

 

Then obviously mark which lead goes where and unlpug them all, and there looks to be a connector on the side.

 

Anything else I need to take note of?

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If it's genuine coilpack and leads, they should be marked with the positions on both coilpack and leads.

 

Otherwise, your spot on. Should take you about 20 mins to swap over. I haven't disconnected my battery when I've had mine off in the past.

 

HTH

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edit 2:

 

I've never taken the cover thing off. Have seen Stealth mechanics whip it off in about 10 seconds flat, so am assuning it's just these that need to be undone? And that it's sort of clipped on too?

 

P1060653.jpg

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If it's genuine coilpack and leads, they should be marked with the positions on both coilpack and leads.

Was going to buy it from Eurocar Parts or GSF. GSF say they don't have the leads available.

HTH

It does, thank you.

 

On a seperate note, at £4 + VAT Each for Bosch Plugs, am tempted to change them at the same time. They must have covered 10k easy if not more, makes sense no?

 

How tight do these have to be torqued up?

P1060654.jpg

P1060651.jpg

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ttt.

 

thread nature has changed.

 

I need help with this misfiring. It's horrible.

 

If it's not electrical, and it's only related to acceletarion / throttle "open-ness"... it's got to be air related, surely?

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I'd give the throttle body, ISV and MAF a good clean to start with.

Sounds like a good idea.

 

Where are they? And how do i go about it please? (I sound so dumb on here! sorry, i'm more used to taking air cooled engines to pieces!)

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Can anyone help with this?

 

I put the old coilpack back on and it's worse. Like proper SHITE! running and misfiring all over the place now. All the leads are in the correct plugs etc.

 

Gonna try the new coilpack with new plug leads tonight when i get home from work. Can only replace the plugs next after that.

 

Can anyone tell me how to clean the ISV and MAF and Throttle body please and where they are loacated?

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Hey Del, Did you get any joy with this?

 

I am in the same position, Have changed the King lead and coilpack after seeing an arking lead, But It is still the same. :mad2:

 

Under normal acceleration it is ok, but when you ask for some power, it feels lumpy and hesitant. Also sat about 80 on the motorway, it is fine at a constant speed, but as soon as you accelerate, becomes lumpy and quite unnearving

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First thing I'd do is hoik the plugs out and give them a wee look. If they're old and worn out or fouled with soot / oil, they will cause a misfire and lack of power.

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Cheers Kev I will as soon as it stops raining, But they were replaced with VW Platinum ones 3 months ago. so I would hope they are in good nick.

 

Reading around the searches, I am tempted to clean the MAF too. What is the best thing for cleaning one? Would Carb cleaner do it?

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Plugs all seem fine, No sign of build up on them?

 

 

However, I realised when replacing the bolts to hold the coilpack in place, I did not re-attach the earth strap, Could this have any negative effects?

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Hi Zippy.

 

Good thread revival!

 

The car has not moved since then and the misfiring has not been cured.

 

I tried a new coilpack, and it was the same.

 

I then bought a new set of leads, and whilst trying to take the old ones out - one "snapped". By that i mean the wire came out but the rest of the top of the cable is still stuck on the plug (probably jammed on) and right down the bottom of a deep hole, i cant get to it to get the thing off without the metal tool.

 

And that's where it's stopped. Because i have not needed the car, it's just been sat there.

 

I have finally found a local mechanic who is willing to spend a few hours tinkering about trying to sort the whole thing out for me.

 

It's going to him this or next week and we'll see. He reckons it's the plugs.

 

I'll keep you updated!

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It can be caused by just excessive gak on the surface of the coil pack too. It will arc through a slightly-conductive coating, particularly when it's wet. Mine has been arcing the last couple of times I've started it too (original CP, 140,000 miles old!), works fine once the engine heat dries everything out of course.

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GAK, Gak, or gak can refer to

 

* slang term for methamphetamine, cocaine, or marijuana

 

:nono: :lol:

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Hmm, That is interesting,

 

It was pretty Gacky, before I changed, it, There was a burned on layer of gack around where the King lead attached.

 

But replacing the coilpack should have stopped it?

 

I am looking into cleaning up the MAF, and conectors tonight, and putting some fresh better quality fuel in, Ill report back then.

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Ok.

 

First the good news.

 

A cleaned MAF, WD40 round the Dizzy, cleaned along all the HT leads with GT85, Made sure all leads were pressed in place, and cleaned and reoiled the air filter. Then I took it to get some more fuel and put in some fuel cleaner too.

 

There was one stutter under load when the engine got warmed, then the car behaved without fault for 170 miles, when on the way back from Cambridgshire a coolant hose let go at a healthy speed on the M11. Spent 6 hours getting RAC to have a look, and in the process of removing the offending hose, split the crack pipe, and then a flatbed back home.

 

So at least I know the hesitation is gone, (for now).

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Garage that has the car just phoned.

 

It was the plugs!!!

 

So, a little tip for you all.... Don't listen to the "experts" @ Lion Garage who said "start with the coil-pack, then the leads"

 

My advice from experince (and that of the garage)

 

START WITH THE PLUGS

 

Then the leads

 

Then the Coil-pack.

 

By listening to the "experts" i have now a brand new coil pack which i did not need and a set of brand new leads which i did not need!

 

That was the good news.

 

The bad news - The entire braking system is F**k*d

 

Well not entire but:

 

All the brake pipes from front to rear are finished / wont pass MOT

 

rear disks and pads are past their best / wont pass MOT

 

Rear hoses are past their best / crusty and rusty / wont pass MOT

 

Front brake bias is well out and all over the place / wont pass MOT

 

ABS Light coming on / wont pass MOT (i know this is just a sensor that needs cleaning)

 

SO, the car went to have the misfire sorted (which i could have done at home with the right tools and a set of plugs)

 

but instead is going to have the entire braking system pretty much overhauled and lots of things replaced!

 

To be fair, some of this was an advisory last MOT and the car is in well trusted hands so i'm looking forward to getting it back in a day or two. Not looking forward to the bill!

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