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Pat_McCrotch

Pat McCrotch's VR6

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Neil, did you check the wiring I emailed you with last night?

 

Don't the have a multimeter tester etc to test any of the wiring mate hence dropping it off at Kev's :) Also useless when it comes to electrics so hoping with all the info you gave Kev he can pinpoint the issue fairly quickly. As Kev said it's not as if it's a modern car with 20 different control units etc. Will hopefully be back in her soon :)

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http://www.methodbook.net/electronics/polo.html

 

Sounds exactly like my problem (aside from he had speedo). Would you say his workaround was a safe way to do things? :shrug:

 

p.s. Won £44 on the lottery yesterday. Finally some luck! :)

 

mechanical drive speedo on the polo, so I'd imagine thats the explanation for that, I'd also imagine the gearbox sender on your Corrado is fed power from the cluster, so you get no speedo readout.

Didn't you change the cluster though? :scratch:

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Yeah he did - just trying to think what other sensitive / chip based electronics there are... maybe try an ECU but I doubt that's it.

 

Spoiler module maybe or I wonder if the diode pack in the alternator has popped?

 

It's not clear from that link above if the fault was in the cluster or the wiring to it - maybe worth jumping the plug as described though to test

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It's not clear from that link above if the fault was in the cluster or the wiring to it - maybe worth jumping the plug as described though to test

Think he was referring to the plastic coated wrap around circuit track that clips onto and hugs the back of the clusters. Can't picture it but I don't think the corrado ones are quite as exposed.

So is there 12v at the cluster connectors? Presumably that is fed from an ignition switched feed from the fuseboard.

Didn't realise the alternator was triggered by the clocks, thought the small wire from the alternator just provided a feed to the clocks to show it's charging?

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an obvious one, but have you checked the earths? if something went pop, then the earth point may have got scorched, providing a bad connection from now on.

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It's not clear from that link above if the fault was in the cluster or the wiring to it - maybe worth jumping the plug as described though to test

Think he was referring to the plastic coated wrap around circuit track that clips onto and hugs the back of the clusters. Can't picture it but I don't think the corrado ones are quite as exposed.

So is there 12v at the cluster connectors? Presumably that is fed from an ignition switched feed from the fuseboard.

Didn't realise the alternator was triggered by the clocks, thought the small wire from the alternator just provided a feed to the clocks to show it's charging?

 

I sent Neil all the info on the wiring for the clocks along with some things to check, I think that as the illumination and the clock + mileage is working its the switched live that has gone. The clocks use the 15 rail in the relay box (switched live) - this takes a rather odd route through a shared connection with the heated washer jets (they share the same fuse) that lives in a 2 pin plug near the relay box. If I had to guess then during the investigation into the alarm/immobiliser wiring this has come out so you have no power to the clocks.

 

All the instrument lights etc require the live feed from the clocks to function, as they are just senders etc they don't draw much current. Illumination comes from the main light switch and there is a permanent live to the clock + mileage cluster from the battery - the switched live uses the same earth as the permanent live so that must be ok.

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If I had to guess then during the investigation into the alarm/immobiliser wiring this has come out so you have no power to the clocks.

 

Absolutely. It's definitely going to be something daft like that.

 

When I got to the car on the day of the 'incident', Neil's work colleagues had already pulled the dash apart and I as knelt down on the floor to inspect the carnage within, the first thing I noticed was 4 or 5 wires yanked out of their spades (the red mist began descending at that point) :roll:

 

Not their's or Neil's fault, but rather the alarm fitter's for leaving the wires in such a vulnerable state like that. And 'electricians' who crimp terminals so limp wristedly that the wire pulls out with the slightest provocation should have their foreskins crimped.

 

That's why we pulled the alarm out Steve, it was the schittest install I've ever seen, original equipment or not. We wanted to start from a clean slate with factory correct wiring.

 

All I've done so far is trace and replace the burned out wire and gutted out the alarm at Neil's request.

 

Now that it's at mine in the garage with all the tools and light etc, it's going to be a lot easier for us!

 

Thanks for the wiring info Yan, it's a great help :salute:

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No worries Kev, for some wierd reason the later the wiring diagrams get the less information they have on them - I had to go back a couple of years for a full pin out of the clock plug (T28) so the diagram you have is a little less than complete (doesn't even show the ignition switch properly!).

 

I have the other ones scanned in so if you cant find it I can email those over too.

 

I also have the alarm installtion manual for a 998 VAG 038 type alarm, thats the big box with the rubber boot on the end, interstingly the ultrasonic sensors should be fitted into the sunroof control panel - never seen a car with them in that position!!

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Yeah, no I appreciate that mate - just thought it looked better than the average alarm install but as you say, unless it came out of the factory like it you don't want it there!

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Cheers Yan! If there's anything more you can find, buzz it over to Neil or you can PM me etc :D Many thanks!

 

The alarm box etc in the engine bay was well installed and looks neat Steve, but sadly the wiring within, wasn't! In a way I'm kind of glad these problems have cropped up now because they were a ticking time bomb really. Not what Neil needs if ever takes the car on a long trip.

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Not their's or Neil's fault, but rather the alarm fitter's for leaving the wires in such a vulnerable state like that. And 'electricians' who crimp terminals so limp wristedly that the wire pulls out with the slightest provocation should have their foreskins crimped.

:lol:

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Well done to Yan for getting it right; turns out the black wire had come out when the fuse box was pulled down at work :mad:

 

Many thanks to Kev for his help with this. Otherwise I would've no doubt paid £500 at an electrical shop. I've decided to reward him by buying his Compomotives :lol:

 

The car still currently sits in Kev's garage as I have a box of new and used parts to fit and i'm still insured on my Mums Polo for the time being. Planning to collect it on Thursday :)

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Yeah it's on the top right 12v rail, so it probably got unclipped as the fuseboard got hoiked out!

 

Glad that's sorted! Can focus on the more interesting stuff now :D

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Got to love the Corrado community, having a friend like Mr Haywire must be a godsend

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I like working on other people's Corrados more than my own! Neil helps me out with parts and I help him with his cars, so it's a good little arrangement :D

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I like working on other people's Corrados more than my own! Neil helps me out with parts and I help him with his cars, so it's a good little arrangement :D

 

I always enjoyed working on other peoples more than my own too, my own always manages to wind me up now and then!

 

Good to hear it was a simple fix, I still think the way the clocks get 12v switched live is bloody wierd though.

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Yeah, mine is damn annoying too! Working on Neil's is so easy and stress free because everything's standard. It's nice also to compare a highly modded one to a stock one and you realise where VW got some things right, and others very, very wrong :D

 

And thanks again Yan, your black wire email saved the day :clap:

It was just hanging around at the back amidst all the other unplugged 'accessory' connectors. I would never have found it without your advice!

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You haven't been in it mate :lol:

 

The throttle pedal is just a volume level for the engine.

 

Closed = No noise and no acceleration.

50% open = Some noise and no accleration.

Wide open = Max noise and no acceleration.

 

Still, it's always the way with cars. The ones you couldn't give two schitts about or even like are always the most reliable cars, in the world......ever.

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