andy 0 Posted March 4, 2011 (edited) Can anyone confirm its 90Nm (66lbft). +1/8 turn I think I may have made an expensive mistake! Edited March 4, 2011 by andy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
domwells27 0 Posted March 4, 2011 The bentley says exactly that for VR6s; 90Nm plus 1/8th of turn. But guessing thats where you have already looked!? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andy 0 Posted March 4, 2011 Yes. However I seem to have used the figure for non-vr6 models which is 225 nm. I fitted new bearings a couple of months back, I read the figure for non-vr6 models in error. I've been driving round for 1000 miles on severely overtorqued bearings. I've just checked them today (as part of something else) and the drivers side was loose (properly loose) Nut was hand tight, loads of play. It might explain the awful ride quality I have been experiencing? The passenger side one has no play and feels good, neither bearing has made any noise or got hot. I'm wondering the best way forward. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted March 4, 2011 I seem to recall it's possible you have damaged the splines on the cv joint and/or hub, that's worst case though :( might be sensible to remove the hub nut and extract the cv shaft from the hub to inspect. Hopefully someone else can confirm. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andy 0 Posted March 21, 2011 An update on this, I slackend everything and retorqued to the correct figure and everything seems fine. Funnily enough the torque figure I used last time was very similar to the the correct figure. First time round I didn't have a torque wrench that went high enough (for 225Nm), I did it as tight as my existing wrench would go (approx 160Nm) with the intention of coming back to it with a suitable larger torque wrench. On retorquing them last weekend, 90Nm plus 1/8 turn it felt very similar in overall tension to what I originally set it too. So in summary I probably wasn't too far off, its always difficult with angle-tightening to know what kind of torque you're actually applying. They all run uber smooth now and I'll check them again before long. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 21, 2011 That's all wrong I'm afraid - from the VAG workshop manual... Remove any paint residue, bonding agent residue and or corrosion on threads/splines of the outer joint. Fit drive shaft. Guide outer joint into wheel hub splines as far as possible. Fit 12 point nut and pull outer joint into the wheel hub until the outer joint is in position. Connect ball joint to wishbone (35nm, bolts on old marks) Fit inner joint and tighten bolts to 45nm. Coat surface of twelve point nut with oil and screw on as far as possible. Lower vehicle, but ensure wheels do not touch the ground – if they do bearing could be damaged. Apply brakes. Tighten 12 point nut to 200Nm and then loosen one turn. Pre tighten 12 point nut to 50nm. Mark one of the 12 points on the nut with a line at its peak. Mark a second line on the next adjacent twelve (in a doing up direction obviously) on the wheel hub. Distance between the two marks = 30 degrees. Align both marks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 21, 2011 And /\ that is about the 3rd method I've seen for VR6 hub nuts now!! Done bearings on mine 3 times, once for wear when I got the car. Another time for suspected wear, but was something else and the 3rd and last time after some new hubs were fitted. Each and every time they've just been rammed on hard with an airgun. No issues at all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 21, 2011 And /\ that is about the 3rd method I've seen for VR6 hub nuts now!! Done bearings on mine 3 times, once for wear when I got the car. Another time for suspected wear, but was something else and the 3rd and last time after some new hubs were fitted. Each and every time they've just been rammed on hard with an airgun. No issues at all. Which to be fair is what most garages do... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andy 0 Posted March 21, 2011 That's all wrong I'm afraid - from the VAG workshop manual... Remove any paint residue, bonding agent residue and or corrosion on threads/splines of the outer joint. Fit drive shaft. Guide outer joint into wheel hub splines as far as possible. Fit 12 point nut and pull outer joint into the wheel hub until the outer joint is in position. Connect ball joint to wishbone (35nm, bolts on old marks) Fit inner joint and tighten bolts to 45nm. Coat surface of twelve point nut with oil and screw on as far as possible. Lower vehicle, but ensure wheels do not touch the ground – if they do bearing could be damaged. Apply brakes. Tighten 12 point nut to 200Nm and then loosen one turn. Pre tighten 12 point nut to 50nm. Mark one of the 12 points on the nut with a line at its peak. Mark a second line on the next adjacent twelve (in a doing up direction obviously) on the wheel hub. Distance between the two marks = 30 degrees. Align both marks. Most of that is what I did, it does make me doubt the value of the bentley manual, all it gives is a torque figure, which apparently is vastly different from VWs. Another thing, how exactly do you lower the vehicle, without the wheels touching the ground. I can only assume by 'lower' they mean the wheel is nearer its normal operating position, i.e car lower relative to hub centre. I suppose that means placing blocks under the wishbone/lower ball joint and lowering the rest of the car. Can't say I ever done it like that! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 21, 2011 I think they must mean lower it enough so that someone can get in the car and press the brake pedal!! They're probably describing the procedure from a workshop ramp point of view. Essentially all they are saying is tighten the nut without the vehicle's weight on them, which to be fair Stealth have always done on my car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted June 5, 2011 (edited) them hub nuts are f--kn tight, front wheel bearings are sealed cartridge bearings and cannot be overtightened unlike the rear bearings which are taper roller bearings,some hub nuts you can only use once,as it has edges {to stop comming loose}that get torn off once you remove them,the hub nuts ive recently fitted have a ny-loc plastic ring and im sure they can be used more then once.to lossen and tighten that nut to f-t tight,remove the centre cap on the wheel whilst the car is on the ground and in gear/handbrake on,then tighten or lossen which ever your doing, basicaly if your renewing your wheel bearing your first step before you even jack the car up is to remove the centre cap and remove that nut, your last step is to lower the car back down and tighten that nut refitt centre cap and drive away smileing :) Edited June 5, 2011 by VW_OwneR_85 adding extra Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andy 0 Posted June 5, 2011 Yes everything was fine in the end, after re-torquing them they have been perfect, think I was just over analysing things. Looking in the Bentley book and seeing I'd used the wrong figure was a bit alarming initially (from a cost point of view) but no harm appears to have been done! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
