owen g60 10 Posted November 3, 2011 Which port you coming in on??? Just being nosey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted November 4, 2011 dunkirk-dover mate,i always use it cause its cheap,but its a 7 hour drive Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
owen g60 10 Posted November 4, 2011 Ah fair enough... If you had come in through poole you could have dropped by for a brew Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted November 4, 2011 Ah fair enough... If you had come in through poole you could have dropped by for a brew cheers for the offer owen,poole's more bouremouth way isnt it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
owen g60 10 Posted November 4, 2011 yep right next door to each other Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted November 6, 2011 My starting problem has returned.I think its a fuel problem-fuel pump only seems to work on cranking and engine started.Obiviously it would help if the fuel pump primed first,maybe that might be the prob. I know on a g60 the ecu internally controls the earth for the relay switch which the 1.8t ecu has too but g60 had a fuel pressure switch on the end of the fuel rail(part of the fuel overun unit) The ecu is deffo in control of the pump because on VCDS you can run a test to check and first thing it checks is the N80 valve which is carbon cansister.I have deleted mine but the fuel pump runs well so not the pump or relay itself-could be the ecu power itself as i keep getting intermitted power code on vcds.seems to be when its cranking. 1990 ecu relay had a diode attached to the cranking live circuit as well as switched live on the relay coil side.1991 onwards only has switched live pin. Maybe my problem lies there but with the diode there it shouldnt matter! any thoughts guys? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60_edge 0 Posted November 6, 2011 I powered up and cranked mine over for the first time yesterday and I don't think my fuel pump primed either. So probably have a similar problem. What have you done with the overun wiring? No help I'm afraid, once I tidy and finish up the wiring I may be in a position to help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted November 7, 2011 Mines been running and finished boost pipes last night but hard to start sometimes.Also coming up with the cam sensor short curcuit/earth fault which could be the problem.Just the fuel pump not priming is amplifying it. Might bridge the overrun wiring but dont see what good that will do as the pump is controlled by the relay which is controlled by the ecu.I have one idea that it may be,audi tt fuel pumps prime when the door is opened bit like the glow plugs on diesel vw's so if i can find the wire to the primer switch on the pinout maybe it will make it prime when corrado door is opened?! ---------- Post added at 06:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:22 PM ---------- sorry just had a look,the 225 engines dont have switch for priming so its upto the ecu then ---------- Post added at 06:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:00 PM ---------- Just had a look,g71 hall sensor short to ground code fault.could be problem too Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted November 9, 2011 right,just gave my baby her first run with her new engine- Happy and sad at the same time. It was flat as a pancake first,found the recirc valve was leaking badly,put other on,same again and found 'N' valve and the surge stopped.better. The DBW pedal i will have to adjust as its too far off the ground,but still driveable. It was beutiful how smooth the engine was,but the when the pedal is pressed you intinally think its going to be a rocket but kept pressing it and not much happened,dissappointing. Think its running in limp mode as the top end is very screwy,massive drop in power and generally guttless Going to scan her,see what i get Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boost monkey 0 Posted November 9, 2011 good luck matey, keep persevering. Before long it will be running great :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted November 12, 2011 I have a new love,my raddo. Found out why some of the sensors were not getting power,gave them a feed and took her for a spin last night. The grin went from the front of my face to the back of my head,its so much fun-ive fallen in love again with her! Some some more bugs to work out but... im happier now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Adam 0 Posted November 12, 2011 Best feelin ever the first time you open it up and get a big kick in the arse :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted November 12, 2011 went to vw this morning,got new MAP sensor(boost sensor) as none came with the engine and wired it in as i originally chopped wire off by mistake when removing unused connectors..uupps. its like every sensor i get working the engine output is increasing massiviely.prob due to sensors working and not beeing in default mode.I put the power down in secong gear,it wheel-spun.third wheel-spun. The G40(cam-sensor) is short to pos somewhere in the loom as its flagging up 23 ohms on a straight wire.Maybe sensor itself is fubared.Probably whats causing engine to run rich as you can smell it from the exhaust. Anyone know for certain if the APX engine is narrowband or wideband?Ive searched,some say narrow,others wideband.My lamba is giving a voltage so its working but im sure a wideband ecu will need to see a 0-5volt as opposed to 0-1 volt narrow band Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon green 5 Posted November 12, 2011 These are the updates we've been waiting to read ! I bet your still grinning ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted November 12, 2011 i want to go for a spin right now!!! but the wife wont let me! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60_edge 0 Posted November 14, 2011 Been out for a better run in it yet? Bet your well chuffed. Started mine up for the first time at the weekend, hopefully give it a run at the weekend. Just bought VDCS so will see what fault codes I've got. Have you got your rev counter working? Mine sits at 3K at idle and won't go any higher. Not sure I've got it wired up right, how is your wired? I've got green/yellow (g1/12 on corrado fuse box) wired up to green/red (ECU pin 81 on APX ECU) I've got a green wire which might be U1/6 which currently doesn't go anywhere yet. Not sure if thats somthing to do with the tach. Need to investigate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted November 16, 2011 Been out for a better run in it yet? Bet your well chuffed. Started mine up for the first time at the weekend, hopefully give it a run at the weekend. Just bought VDCS so will see what fault codes I've got. Have you got your rev counter working? Mine sits at 3K at idle and won't go any higher. Not sure I've got it wired up right, how is your wired? I've got green/yellow (g1/12 on corrado fuse box) wired up to green/red (ECU pin 81 on APX ECU) I've got a green wire which might be U1/6 which currently doesn't go anywhere yet. Not sure if thats somthing to do with the tach. Need to investigate My rev counter isnt working at the moment,i just change by engine tone.If you have a digital cluster you need an Tacho adpator box that QPEG do,if you have an older cable drive like mine i think you can bridge a diode on the back to get it working but i havent got around to this yet.Im not really driving it hard yet because cam sensor needs fixxing. i gave it a blast on saturday and using it as a daily at the moment. Your 1992 wiring is different than my 1990 one,i believe G1/12 on my one is perm live rather than swicthed so i used G1/4 to pin 81 I dont have page 10 from the main wiring index,you dont have it by any chance? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted November 16, 2011 awesome stuff m8! glad you got it running, with the fuel pump, my old mk4 golf used to prime when you opened the door so im guessing its linked to a door switch,with you running the vw ecu i dont know if that info is of any use to you or not? but thought idd share it, hope it all goes well for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60_edge 0 Posted November 16, 2011 Sounds like it must be running pretty well to use as a daily, so that's good. I thought differently for the clocks and tach. I thought the digital cluster would plug straight in and work, older needed the convertor box. I'll see if club gti can help, there is a good 20vt oem management thread. you have pm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted November 16, 2011 Sounds like it must be running pretty well to use as a daily, so that's good. I thought differently for the clocks and tach. I thought the digital cluster would plug straight in and work, older needed the convertor box. I'll see if club gti can help, there is a good 20vt oem management thread. you have pm Its still a bit tempermental at the moment as ive found the G40 cam sensor signal wire has a 20 ohm resistance!!so ive disconnected it.Instead of opening the whole loom im just going to add a wire to run from the start of the connector to the ecu connector.far easier.Sometimes it wants to go,splutters,kicks in,then repeats this over again but only when i floor it.If i take it easy its fine,apart from overrich exhaust smell so make me think its still running in limp mode. Ive still got the ABS problem,lights on and wheels lock but the pump is heard to run The club gti thread is the one i used too, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted November 17, 2011 As VCDS has constantly logged the same fault- G40 cam sensor open or wiring to plus it decided to dig a little deeper and remove the sensor.Look at what i found- This is when Cam/hall sensors go bad!!! never rule them out even though they 'should' have no contacting parts. Prob attributing to my hard starting problem Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted November 19, 2011 Just fitted the new cam position sensor,engine runs much better.Seems to have also solved the starting issue as well because it started every time i turned the key but ill have to see when its cold. The boost is now predictable,smooth and less spikey.Im sure a Remap at a later date will change that. Didnt even need to change gear when i overtake unless im in fifth as ive got a ASD gearbox attached to the engine. Next on list of things to do- Sort accelarator pedal height out,Sort Rev counter out,Find way to plug hole in the wirewall where loom goes through and find some hoses to suit the boost side as ive got a Golf intercooler fitted and the angle is around 120-130 dregrees but sharp bend as the hard pipe i made up is quite close to the serp belt and not the best fit Will post vid of a quick drive soon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon green 5 Posted November 19, 2011 Looking forward to the vid ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dannyboy 0 Posted November 19, 2011 Looking forward to the vid ! Ill get it done as soon as my k&n filter comes through the post which is next week.At the moment im trying to drive as little as possible as the filter i have on at the moment is a ....cough...thick woolly sock :roll: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alex_G60_Fanatic 0 Posted November 19, 2011 Ill get it done as soon as my k&n filter comes through the post which is next week.At the moment im trying to drive as little as possible as the filter i have on at the moment is a ....cough...thick woolly sock :roll: Classic! Get some lass to donate some tights to your charger belt and you'll be set :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
