VR6 Engine Rebuild

[lukeyy 10]

Hey,

 

after a few days of finally realising the vr is a little worn out and need of some engine freshening up! Ive bitten the bullet and decided that a engine rebulid is in order. Blue smoke is showing that valve stem seals need doing, so thinking if the head is coming off i might aswell replace everything. Do it once, do it properly!! ;) I'm also thinking about uping the power by camming it, and really going to town with port polishing, valve seats, skimming, basically getting the engine super strong and ready for a charger. Also a 3.1 bore might be going on in theres sign of bore wear.

 

If theres anybody out there that can help supply places that i can get a rebiuld kit and parts from, let me know cos i cant really find anything helpful on the net :(

Also anybody that has done similar work, any pointers or help and hints would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Thanks

 

 

Luke

[aide 0]

plenty of vr's getting to your sort of stage now and needing a full engine overhaul. you'll find a lot of info on the search, if your going to keep it as a 12v vr then be prepared for major money for a full overhall, so much in fact that its more economical to either transplant an okay vr or go the 24v/ r32 route.

 

as a taster i just rebuilt my cylinder head with almost new everything, that was in and around £600 with me doing everything except machine shop work. block wise you can double that figure once you're talking new pistons, rings, bearings, studs and machine shop work!

[lukeyy 10]

i never really thought abour putting a r32 lump in it.. mmm. 600 for cylinder head sounds like what i was kinda expecting for parts. id probs just do the new internals and then get a skim in that case, as for block work. i found a kit from america and it was really expensive. :( maybe a replacement bottom end with low miles and rebuilt and cammed head would be good.

Where abouts did you source your parts from ,was it a kit?

Might have a little look at how much r32 lumps are going for now. :)

[northernvr6 0]

Hi Lukeyy

 

Im currentley rebuilding my engine and trust me it would probably be alot cheaper to swap it for the 24v wish i had but ive come to far now lol

 

my bores on the block were shagged so had to bore it out and fit larger forged pistons check crank over and replaced all bottom end bearings at the same time. while the heads off you might aswell at least get this checked over mine needed new stem seals and lifters i also replaced all the timing chains and tensioners fitted all new gaskets, water pump, head bolts. Thats before i stated on the performance stuff like cams 6 branch manifold, lightweight flywheel, clutch etc etc.

 

I dont wanna add up how much ive spent better off not knowing lol

 

All depends what you want, how long you have, and how deep your pockets are :-)

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I'm afraid 3.1 is not possible with bore alone. You need the R32 crank to achieve that, and modified 83mm pistons to give you a fullsome 3110cc :D

 

An R32 crank, brand new, will set you back about 2000 buckaroos. Modified 83mm pistons + machine work, another 1000 on top, at least.

 

So as the other chaps have said, unless you have a particular fondness of the 12V, retire it to the Wheelie bin and get Mr 24V onboard :D

 

As it happens I've just bought some 24V ARP head and rod bolts, new chains (yep, they wear out on that motor too) and Schimmel 264/260 assymetric cams.

 

I'm confident a 2.8 can hit 250hp with these cams with a Vince map and the R32 should easily hit the big 300 as it has a much better head and intake compared to the 2.8.

 

To get 250hp out of a 12V, n'asp, will cost you 17 limbs and and a remortgage.

 

Something for you to chew on.

 

Also worth noting the 24V is waaaaaaaay smoother and quieter. Roller cams, mmmmmmm...... :D

Edited July 5, 2011 by Kevin Bacon