vr6storm 0 Posted March 13, 2004 mmmmmmuuuussssstttttt rrrrrrrreeeeeeeesssssssssiiiiiisssssstttttttt :wink: Like there was ever any hope :) well i did try not to buy it :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 13, 2004 not showing up on my credit card bill....yet :roll: ......but i "authorised" Vince to take the whole payment...........so if ya dont mind kev :wink: ...........put me down as paid :wink: Tis done....I don't think Vince will actually take the money from our cards until he places the order next week. I got some wiring details and exactly where to dremel the bonnet from Vince today, not as bad as I first thought :-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HodgyVR6 0 Posted March 14, 2004 seriously considering giving Vince a call tommorrow and placing my order, but before I do just wondered how much the Schrik will change the characteristics of the car? I know it will give more torque low down but I bought the car in the first place for the lovely surge you get at 3k rpm, will this change? Is it going to turn into a civic Type R? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted March 14, 2004 It'll mean you get a phenomenal surge at 2800 rpm instead, and it'll keep going to the redline... (Apart from the switchover deadspot at 4k rpm.) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HodgyVR6 0 Posted March 14, 2004 am I right in thinking you can alter the switch over point? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 14, 2004 am I right in thinking you can alter the switch over point? Yes by altering DIP switches in the controller box. 4000rpm is best as that's when the VR 'comes on the cam' and the Schrick's best work has been done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6storm 0 Posted March 15, 2004 It'll mean you get a phenomenal surge at 2800 rpm instead, and it'll keep going to the redline... (Apart from the switchover deadspot at 4k rpm.) sorry but i was under the impression that getting the ECU re-chipped for the Shrick would eliminate the dead-spot or flatspot...........well thats what i was told :? :? :? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted March 15, 2004 I've been told it will "minimise" the flat spot. You can't remove it altogether: there's a finite amount of time that it takes for the hydraulics to switch air-flow paths, and for the new air flow to stabilise. Even the new cars with variable inlet geometries (the Passat V6 for example) have noticeable switchover points. I am led to believe they use three separate inlet lengths now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vr6storm 0 Posted March 15, 2004 I've been told it will "minimise" the flat spot. You can't remove it altogether: there's a finite amount of time that it takes for the hydraulics to switch air-flow paths, and for the new air flow to stabilise. Even the new cars with variable inlet geometries (the Passat V6 for example) have noticeable switchover points. I am led to believe they use three separate inlet lengths now. cheers for that then dr_mat.................never really thought about the time it takes for the hydraulic part to work :oops: :? :? ........and also saves me asking at a later date............."why does my shrek have a "flat-spot"" :oops: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 15, 2004 cheers for that then dr_mat.................never really thought about the time it takes for the hydraulic part to work :oops: :? :? ........and also saves me asking at a later date............."why does my shrek have a "flat-spot"" :oops: Shouldn't worry about it Rodders. The VR has one big flatspot from idle to 4000rpm as standard :-) I'm confident the big dollop of torque below 4000rpm will more than make up for the slight dead-zone during the inlet tract length transition. By all accounts, a lot of people don't go over 4000rpm very often with the Schrick installed anyway, such is it's effectiveness. The flatspot may not be as pronounced as you're expecting it to be anyway! K Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HodgyVR6 0 Posted March 15, 2004 Well i've just taken the plunge, order mr shrek and paid in full (the beauty of the credit card). Vince says they're now up to 26!!!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
emax 0 Posted March 15, 2004 cheers for that then dr_mat.................never really thought about the time it takes for the hydraulic part to work :oops: :? :? ........and also saves me asking at a later date............."why does my shrek have a "flat-spot"" :oops: The so-called "flat spot" isn't that major at all. It is just when the Butterfly valve switches, the manifold resumes the profile of the standard unit and the torque rolls off back to the original curve. It's not like the engine stops pulling, you just feel a slight (and very short-lived) reduction in power when the switchover point is reached. Then, as the engine comes on cam, the top end is just as strong as before. To be honest, it isn't really that noticeable at all. As others say though, you'll seldom stretch the engine beyond 4,000 or 4,500 unless you want to hear the sound-effects at the top of the rev range or want to extract every last ounce of power from the engine. Cheers, Euan. '94 VR6 with Schrick manifold + remap Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 15, 2004 The so-called "flat spot" isn't that major at all. It is just when the Butterfly valve switches, the manifold resumes the profile of the standard unit and the torque rolls off back to the original curve. It's not like the engine stops pulling, you just feel a slight (and very short-lived) reduction in power when the switchover point is reached. Then, as the engine comes on cam, the top end is just as strong as before. To be honest, it isn't really that noticeable at all. As others say though, you'll seldom stretch the engine beyond 4,000 or 4,500 unless you want to hear the sound-effects at the top of the rev range or want to extract every last ounce of power from the engine. Cheers, Euan. '94 VR6 with Schrick manifold + remap Nice to have some views from people that are currently using one :lol: From all the sources and material I've read/been told about these manifolds, the drop on the torque curve is not half as sinister in real life than the plot would suggest. However, your car is chipped, so could you say the same about your engine's post-Schrick behaviour if it wasn't? Did you try the Schrick before/after chipping? Cheers K Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
emax 0 Posted March 15, 2004 From all the sources and material I've read/been told about these manifolds, the drop on the torque curve is not half as sinister in real life than the plot would suggest. However, your car is chipped, so could you say the same about your engine's post-Schrick behaviour if it wasn't? Did you try the Schrick before/after chipping? Hi Kev, The flat spot certainly isn't a problem. I found myself irritated by the lack of low-down shove and that is the reason why I bought the manifold. I don't even notice the switchover point unless I'm really looking out for it... I was going to ask Star to RR the car, fit the manifold and do another RR, chip the car and do another RR but in the end I didn't. I wish I had now as it would have helped others see the true benefits (or not) of chipping the car with this mod. I bought my manifold off John Webster and he didn't have his car chipped but still reaped the benefits of the VSR without it. I think, as has been said elsewhere in this thread that the only difference is that this "flat-spot" is more pronounced. My car had an AmD re-map before I had the manifold fitted (through the last owner) but I had this re-done by Star Performance when they fitted the manifold. The bottom line is, I doubt that any of you guys with your name on the list for a manifold will regret it, it is an excellent mod and the prices Vince has got on the buy look very reasonable indeed. Cheers, Euan. PS: Those of you getting your car re-mapped, ask if you can get the old chip with your existing ECU map back. That way, if you punt the VSR on when you eventually sell the car, you can get someone to put the original engine map back in place. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 15, 2004 Thanks for the reassurance Euan and the advice about keeping the old ECU! I'm really looking forward to getting mine but have to wait a month for Schrick to make the things first :cry: The engine has also decided to develop a nasty vibration now that I have paid for the manifold, typical, eh? Cheers K Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sadinn 0 Posted March 16, 2004 Sorry guys to be a pain - I went direct to vince, paid my 50% up front last week - Think I was no. 17 and he said teh cash would be going out tuesday, so I am in for a penny! (or a few of them anyway!) Cheers *saving madly for the next 3 weeks* :roll: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites