ABS pump bleed procedure with VAG COM

[Pat_McCrotch 0]

Does anyone know if the Corrado VR6 uses the same bleeding procedure as the MKIV Bora/Golf via VAGCOM below or is our system a little more antiquated?

 

 

"I did the ABS pump bleed procedure after doing my ASR/ESP upgrade. I don't recall the exact messages that come up on the screen, but I can give you the general idea.

 

In VAG-COM:

[select]

[03 - ABS Brakes]

[basic Settings - 04]

Group 001

[Go!]

 

Once you hit GO! the screen says to depress pedal and hold

You have to press the pedal HARD. Seriously, pound the pedal like you're about to drive over a cliff. Remember to hold the pedal down!

 

The pedal will drop, the pump runs briefly, then the pedal comes back up.

 

Take your foot off the pedal.

 

I think it wants you to click on OK at this point.

 

The screen says something like FR/FL bleed screw OPEN.

 

Open both front bleed screws. Obviously, on each bleed screw you'll have some tubing going from the bleeder into a catch jar.

 

Click on OK (or DONE or something like that).

 

Pump runs for 10 seconds, pushing fluid out of the bleeders into your catch jars.

 

Screen says something like: Depr. pedal 10X; bleed screw CLOSED

 

Depress pedal firmly 10 times, then close both bleed screws.

 

Click OK.

 

You'll get sent back to the depress pedal and hold screen and repeat the cycle. It goes on for like 10 or 15 cycles. I never got a finished message, I just did it until the screen said N/A.

 

It is easier with two people. One in the car pressing the pedal and working Vag-Com, the other outside opening and closing bleeders and making sure the master cylinder doesn't run dry (very important!).

If you're doing this solo, put the laptop on the driver's side roof so you can access it easier. It's also a great workout as you run in and out and around the car.

After the ABS pump is bled, you can then bleed the rest of the system as normal."

[8vMatt 1]

Cheers Neil, I'm having brake bleed issues at the mo. Bled the system yesterday with Chris Langdon. Loads of bubbles came out but there was a whose noise that sounded like it was pushing air from the abs pump. This is going to be a big help mate to find out the best way to sort things, thanks.

[RW1 0]

RH Drive Teves 04 brakes and ABS..... does not use VCDS!

 

VCDS only applies to LH Drive cars for the Corrado, do not follow the Bentley or any other LH Drive manual. These Corrados use Teves O2 brakes.

 

For Teves 04 - bleed as you would normal braking system. Open:

(VW recommend vacuum bleeding for RHDrive ABS & EDL, vacuum assistance for RHD & LHD non ABS system and LHD is pressure bled.)

 

1st) Rear Right & bleed through.

2nd) Rear Left & bleed through.

3rd) Front Right & bleed through.

4th) Front Left & bleed through.

 

Bleed through of the rears is generally acheived with about 200ml of fluid, front is less. Recommended is 500ml per position.

 

Then Clutch slave but make sure the reservoir level is always above the top off feeding the clutch circuit (halfway down the sidewall of reservoir).

 

(For others) Clutch is different in that... connect up the bleeder and open the Clutch Slave cylinder nipple on top of the gearbox and vacuum bleed/pressure bleed as usual.

Now BY HAND (never let go until its in the fully up position and the spring assist isn't pulling on the pedal), push while holding the Clutch pedal for a major part of the travel. Still holdiing the pedal, pull it back up to the top again and repeat slowly again. Close the Slave Cylinder bleed nipple. Thats it done.

 

Note: the Clutch pedal is sprung assisted so within a short distance of the stroke starting, it will go forward under the spring pressure. If not held, it will dissappear PDQ up into the underdash area - so do keep hold of it.

 

Always best to vacuum feed or pressure feed rather than continuously pump the Brake pedal. Continuous pumpng makes the Master Cylinder seals go hot and the older they are, the more likely the seals are likely to pop and fail.

 

Tip 1: Make sure the rear wheel bearing have no play in them. This holds the pads off more if slack due to them being taper bearings and the discs sliding sideways as you travel down the road. As a result of the pads being pushed wider apart, the brakes become soft.

 

Tip 2: Car on level ground so the brake reservoir is above the rear calipers. After bleeding with a vacuum sucking system & closing the bleed nipple, remove the bleeding system connection and just open the bleed nipple and let gravity drive out some fluid. With a vacuum system, it can suck air up the bleed nipple thread and on closing lodge a small air bubble just ahead of the bleed nipple when its closed. Opening under gravity gets it out if its there, You see it pop out as fluid rises onto your rag or kitchen towel catching the dribble of fluid. Once a about 10ml is out, close up the bleed nipple.

 

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Corrado on the level when doing it. (Not specified by VW)

 

2) Open the 3 bleed nipples not on the calipers

a) Brake master cylinder

b) Two on ABS unit.

 

These will self-bleed under gravity so no need to pump the pedal. I have never force fed the system with these valves open.

 

.

Edited September 6, 2011 by RW1

[Pat_McCrotch 0]

So whats the process for the ABS pump? Same as a Caliper using the two bleed nipples at the top?

[RW1 0]

Ah, you reminded me. Above post amended.

 

The is no VW "official" method of bleeding the ABS valve block on the Teves 04.

 

First of all, the actual valve block would be difficult to bleed as it needs to open its various ABS/EDL valves to allow fluid to flow. That can't be done with VCDS.

 

VW treat the valve block as an enclosed no serviceable item at the car.

 

Rigs can be bought for the Teves 04 which allow you to drain & fill the inner workings using hydraulic connections and signal control of the individual valves.

 

The main point is that unless the ABS or EDL is on operation, the inner valve part is not in operation under normal braking.

 

NB. There is a VW warning not to run the pump continuously for more than 30 seconds at a time. No cooling off period is given.

 

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[fla 9]

I need to replace one of the pipes from the abs unit to the flexi. I was going to attach this to the abs unit, get a helper to press the brake pedal sufficiently to fill the pipe, then join this to the flexi (which also has fluid in it), then open bleed nipple and continue to slowly push the brake pedal unit a good flow of brake fluid came out. Would this be correct? Would it then also require a bleeding of the ABS unit afterwards from each of the two points on the top of the unit? Incidentally, are these two for each of the front and rear circuits?

[RW1 0]

The ABS & EDL valves will be in their relaxed state. Top two bleed points next to the black ABS motor body should not come into it.

 

Right approach to fill the pipes up.

 

Also minimise outward flow from the ABS block connection while it is open.

 

Connect up. Because the ABS & EDL valve are in the relaxed normal pisition, its just like you have joined the master cylinder pipe to the 2nd brake pipe to the rubber hose with a very large joining block.

 

So open the wheel caliper bleed nipple and bleed out until all bubbles are absent. About 250ml of brake fluid should do it at any wheel, bit less on the fronts. Just as a normal non-ABS brake system.

 

I think you will find when you open the two bleed nipples on top, only fluid will sweep out as that part is not affected by what you have broken down in the system.

 

Important bit is not to let the ABS valve block drain itself as that WILL empty and be very hard to refill without a pressure rig for the purpose.

 

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Edited September 13, 2011 by RW1