Critical_Mass 10 Posted September 29, 2011 Rights this is a bit of an odd one. Weeks ago i changed the front engine mount on the VR - i was getting clonking when changing front 1st to 2nd as well as jolting when coming off the throttle and even on sometimes. Fitted new one and expected the clonking and jolting to have gone. But no they're still there. Also when driving it feels like the front end is shaking, i first noticed it going down the motorway and first though the car was misfiring and was juddering due to it, but when i dropped the clutch and revved the engine, there was no misfiring. Even at lower speeds it feels as if there's slight shaking in the front end. So spoke to my mechanic and he checked front engine mount and there was still loads of movement in the engine, you could see it raising up, and he said the mount was moving way from the subframe. I got back under the car dismantled the engine mount and refitted. I checked for movement again by idling the car and engaging the clutch - its alot more solid now. So again thought that was the problem, but still the front of the car feels like its shaking slightly. I know the tie rods could do with changing and also one of the wishbone ball joints. But im not sure whaets causing this shaking feeling (albeit slight), but also the jolting coming on and off the throttle. I did adjust the throttle cable before changing the engine mount, could this cause the jolting on and off the throttle? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 29, 2011 F'cked rear wishbone bushes? Have they ever been changed? Had the same problem in our 2006 Polo and when I jacked it up, the nearside rear wishbone bush was half missing! Symptoms included, steering wheel shake, pulling to the left, steering wheel jerk when changing gear, heavy clunks pulling away in 1st & reverse, tyre wear and awful handling. TBH though, you should really fix the other 2 other issues as well before getting too worried about this new symptom. And the engine mount was coming away from the subframe?! What the heck are you doing to that poor car?! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted September 29, 2011 Yep. Second that. Common problem on a lot of cars. Had the same on my X5. Any of the bushes on the front wishbones can cause the vibration under braking and at certain speeds but also the clonk on and off the acceleration, the most common one on the Corrado is the rear wishbone bushes as Kev rightly said. Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Critical_Mass 10 Posted September 29, 2011 No idea regarding the engine mount before i took it off again everything was tight and no movement yet when idling and raising the clutch the engine was moving alot. seems better now - very odd. I know it had one of the wishbone bushes replaced during its mot. I assume the others were fine otherwise they'd have failed MOT too. The next step is to get both tie rods and ball joints changed. What about the jerky throttle? its horrible, you can feel it through the pedal. Id have said engine mounts but the front is weeks old and there's no movement on the rears? Whats the adjuster on the throttle body for exactly? is it just for when the cable stretches due to age, so you can adjust accordingly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VW_OwneR_85 2 Posted September 29, 2011 i adjust the throttle cable to take out any slack in the cable, so as soon as you press the accelerator it doesnt pull slack cable and then open up if ya get me?,cant imagine it to cause any problems like you have got, when my cable was slack the throtle pedal just had abit of free movement before it pulled the cable.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 29, 2011 I wouldn't rely on an MOT test as a way to determine chassis bush condition! Get it to a specialist who knows these cars inside out. The throttle adjustment is there so that A) it's not too tight and acts like a hair trigger over bumps and B) not too loose so 1/4 pedal movement does nothing. You want a little slack in the cable. Move the circlip until the cable is tight, then pop it back a notch or 2 and it's done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites