CazzaVR 0 Posted January 2, 2012 Left my lights on a few weeks ago and drained the battery. Charged it and it was OK again- noticed that the Clifford alarm started to beep afterwards, whereas it had always been silent before. After a couple of weeks, the alarm stopped beeping when the button was pressed, but everything else seemed to be working fine. In the last few days though, the voltage on the volt gauge dropped to around 10.5 with the ignition on (no seemingly adverse effects on starting etc though). When the engine iwas started, the voltage barely changed at all. Tried charging it again, and it stayed the same. Thought the battery was done for, so changed it under warranty at Halfords. The alarm beeps are back again, however, the voltage is still the same 10.5-11v on the gauge! I HATE electrics and don't have a voltmeter. Anyone got any idea what's going on? Could the gauge be faulty? Could there be a drain from something like the alarm? Surely a brand new battery would show up as 12v iand jump up to around 14 on start up? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted January 2, 2012 Back to halfords mate and get them to test the car with the Bosch tester... alternator may be goosed! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted January 2, 2012 (edited) Could the gauge be faulty? Could there be a drain from something like the alarm? Surely a brand new battery would show up as 12v iand jump up to around 14 on start up? Yes, it should. A multimeter would really come in handy...try this one, you'll get a lot more than £7.50's value out of it! Not increasing when the motor's started is most likely alternator. You may not have many goes at starting it left if the battery's not charging so take it gently and leave the heater off! Stone Edited January 2, 2012 by Stonejag Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted January 2, 2012 I was thinking it was prob the alternator, but surely a new battery should be reading more than that? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted January 2, 2012 I was thinking it was prob the alternator, but surely a new battery should be reading more than that? Not with the engine running as you have the resistance of the car... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted January 2, 2012 Not with the engine running as you have the resistance of the car... Correction: Not with the ignition on as you have the resistance of the car. If the gauge is wired into the switched-live feed then turning on the ignition also turns on the ECU/internal fans/fuel pump etc etc etc so you're not getting the unloaded battery voltage. You need to measure it with your new multimeter (;)) with the ignition off. Pint of beer says you get round about 12.5V! (and if less then it'll be because you've part-flattened the battery by starting it without a working alternator to recharge it...) Stone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted January 2, 2012 Thanks chaps. Will get a multimeter/or take it somewhere local. Sounds like it's gonna be the alternator. Never had to replace one before! Presumably it's front end off. Will be worth changing the belt I guess, and it'll be a good excuse to change the tensioner baring which is a little noisy. Any other tips? Also, where's the best place (cheap + decent quality) to get an alternator? Should I go for a 120a? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lauraJ 0 Posted January 2, 2012 When you do get the multimeter just check the reading on the gauge. When we changed the alternator on your old vr6 the gauge still read a little lower than what it was saying on the multimeter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted January 2, 2012 That's good to know- thanks Laura. Gonna keep it then? ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lauraJ 0 Posted January 2, 2012 Hahha, well I want to, spent a bit on it on the last few months. But keeping it up for sale just in case the right offer comes up. Good luck with sorting out your battery issues :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted January 2, 2012 Thanks Laura. Out of interest, where did you get the alternator from? Is is 120 or 90a? How much was it? :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lauraJ 0 Posted January 2, 2012 I got mine from euro car parts, not a Bosch or valeo one. I got the 90amp for £120 cash I think. New part so no surcharge. When I rang up our tps they cheapest one was about £200ish + vat with it being on my works account. Money ruled my head on this one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted January 3, 2012 Thanks Laura. Things took a turn for the worse today :( Disconnected the battery and wedged the neg cable out of the way. Then I proceeded to clean up the end of the alternator earth strap (the part bolted onto the alternator), as this was looking very green. Was scraping the green off with a screwdriver and there was an almighty electrical blast at the end of the screwdriver- the negative cable had sprung back and was touching the terminal. As a result, I have now lost the speedo, fuel guage, temp gauge and mfa functions. The rev counter is working and the illumination was working, but decided to stop mid journey. The spoiler has also stopped working automatically. Gutted. Anyway, have checked all the fuses and they are all fine. Any ideas? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted January 3, 2012 New clocks and spoiler module? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted January 3, 2012 Oh no :( Forgot to say that the alternator itself is now making quite a loud metallic whirring noise, that gets louder/changes pitch with the revs. Bloody Corrados :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vornwend 0 Posted January 3, 2012 Oh bugger!! sorry to hear about this Andy. Is there no fix? If it makes you feel any better you're not the only one with electrical problems at the moment - we managed to break the laptop screen this weekend - have ordered a replacement and will have a go at fitting it myself but still an expensive accident. We also had British Gas out 4 times over Xmas (including Xmas day) with the boiler repeatedly breaking down - £600 of new parts later its fixed and all for "free"! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony_ack 0 Posted January 4, 2012 Go through each of the electrical systems on the car and assess which ones are working and which ones aren't. The full battery voltage has been shunted through those circuits so anything it went through that isn't designed for 12v would have been burnt out. Sounds like you need a minimum of altenator and clocks. Most of the clocks functions rely on 5v input signals hence why they're fried. At least it sounds like the ECU is safe! The spoiler module may be okay? Not sure exactly how it is wired - whether the spoiler module gets a speed signal from the clocks or directly? If the signal comes from the clocks, then the clocks speed sensor being goosed could be causing the spoiler issues. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Might have just blown the voltage reg in the clocks which can be replaced fairly easily... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks guys. Yeh, I was thinking that the spoiler was probably linked to the clocks. Voltage reg in the clocks is a good call Steve. Where would I get a new one? Where is it exactly? Many thanks again for your input guys! By the way, the oil buzzer started beeping at me this morning. Oil level and pressure are both fine though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted January 4, 2012 Oh, that's a real bu99er, I've worked on alternators before without disconnecting the battery, even made sparks fly, don't know how I've got away with it. hope this helps on the voltage reg front, think this is from club GTI from years back, may be from a mk2 or early corrado dash but I think the info is still applicable: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks David- very helpful. Do I get a new one from VW? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Yeah it's on ETKA I think Andy... Remember to disconnect the battery when you change it ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted January 4, 2012 I do electronic rework if you aren't happy changing it yourself. You're welcome to post it over if you like :) Stone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted January 4, 2012 Thanks Steve! :lol: Stonejag, that would be brilliant! PM on its way :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted January 4, 2012 couple of quid off ebay if you struggle to get one from VW Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
