StArRaDo 10 Posted January 7, 2012 Wadup Guys. I'm a proud owner of a 90 G60 w/a 95 VR swap. She's ran flawless since I picker her up bout 2 months ago, aside from a minor oil leak coming from oil filter housing and a similar coolant drip coming from pulley side, which I'm assuming is the water pump or pulley. Aside from these 2 issues, she's been fine. Now the issue. The other day I started her up and let her warm as usual, when the rpms dropped during idle as usual, I felt a rougher idle. The rpms were dropping lower than the normal 900-1000 range, kind of jumping LOW than to that range. As i pulled off she began to Hesitate/Stutter. She continued to do this through all the gears inconsistently, kind of like a "hick-up" or "bucking", here and there throug the rpm range. Now I baby the **** out of her, shifting between 2500-3, so I opened her up a bit hoping to clear out the bug, assuming it's a fuel issue, but no good. It's been 2 days and still there. Now I've done some research here and found the coil pack/lead issue, but dont believe this is the case for me. I'm wondering if this is a fuel pump/injector, or a spark plug issue? I wont be able to get under her till Sunday, plan on pulling the plugs and try testing the fuel system. Any ideas or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. Stay low and stay clean fellas. P.S. I tried posting this earlier, so if this posts twice, sorry! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djmac56 0 Posted January 8, 2012 Hi mate, there a many people on this forum with much more technical knowhow than me, but I've had a similar problem that I seem to have now (touch wood) rectified. I suffered with a rough "hunting" idle, and when i'd come off the gas, the car would lurch - almost as though it was under engine braking - whatever gear I was in. I replaced the MAF, lambda sensor, ISV, throttle position sensor, sparkplugs, ht leads, fuel pressure switch, and whilst there was some improvement from all of these, the problem never really went away. All the other VRs I drove were much smoother. I even tried the "Italian tune up" to no avail. Eventually, the problem was traced to two places - the wiring for the heater element to the lambda sensor had been disconnected, and more importantly, the wiring to the ECU was madly corroded. After cleaning up the ECU relay and connections the car has been transformed. It's still not perfect, but it's like night and day compared to how it had been. Even with the engine swap possibly resulting in new wiring, I'd have that checked out first, based on my experience. Dodgy ECU signals = dodgy everything else! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted January 8, 2012 Check the MAF first - sounds similar to how mine was. It was most noticeable if you accelerated hard, then the revs dropped right down and it really struggled. I used to have a cone filter jubilee-clipped direct to the MAF (with no bracket holding it) and the weight of the filter caused the intake piping to bounce up and down, which gave the MAF wiring metal fatigue and one of them snapped. It was quite hard to spot but just pull back the rubber boot on the MAF plug and check all the wires are secure :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CorradoWannabe 1 Posted January 8, 2012 One more for the MAF - I had a loose electrical connection on the MAF once on the VR and it behaved very much like you described. A test I've heard mentioned is to disconnect the MAF and see if it runs any different - it should be immediately obvious - if no difference then suspect the MAF. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StArRaDo 10 Posted January 9, 2012 That's wasup fellas, thank you very much for your feedback and info. I'm bout to get under her now and tinker, check all the above best I can. I'll get back asap wit an update! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StArRaDo 10 Posted January 10, 2012 Update! MAF is good. I'm having trouble locating the LAMBDA sensor, where is this located? Didn't get 2 do everything I wanted so another day. Also, would disconnecting the battery play a role in this issue? Thanx again 4 your input fellas, GREATLY appreciated! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted January 10, 2012 The vacuum tube from the throttle body to the ECU on the G60 is absolutely critical so make sure that is in really good condition with no tiny holes or perishing. Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StArRaDo 10 Posted January 12, 2012 Update... Had some time the other morning and gave her a good look over. All really looked well concerning primary problem, found some others >:-/ Long story short - 1.I did get a new driver side fender on her :-D 2.Found a BADLY corroded fuel line, unable to replace @ the moment but addressed for the time being and 3.Temporarily fixed a problem with a rattling exhaust. *Found that the Oil Leak I've had coming from the Oil Filter Housing has become significantly worse, also showing signs of possibly coming from Above the top metal side of the oil filter housing* Strangely, when I addressed the bad fuel line I found, temporarily duck taping it (on a budget U kno?) my Hesitation/Stutter seems to have subsided greatly, along with idling calming back 2 a norm. I'm kind of confused 2 what's exactly going on, but I must say regardless of any or all problems existing, I LOVE driving her, and especially LOVE working on her. I plan to change her fuel filter and spark plugs this coming weekend, much needed after taking a peak, and quite honestly should of been done after purchase. I'll let you guys know how all goes soon, again thanx for the advice and suggestions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TanVr6 0 Posted January 12, 2012 I'm getting a similar problem on mine, the problem for me is I'm scared to mess! N make things worse. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StArRaDo 10 Posted January 12, 2012 Totally understand! But with the things I checked as suggested above, MAF, ICV etc, not much real tinkering. Just a good visual inspection, some touching and feeling and a little trial and error is all it takes. 4 instance the MAF test suggested above is very simple and conclusive in my opinion. The 1 think I was scared 2 mess with myself was the ECU. Being I have a swap and all rewired I was and am still tentative on doing that, but after a good inspection and seeing how it was fastened (it was literally floating around its general location, I did get it fastened much more securely) I plan on tackling that this weekend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
24V Renshaw 0 Posted January 12, 2012 The oil leak will more than likely be from the oil pressure sensor on top of the filter housing. I would dry it all off and have a very good look, then replace that first before you go any further. Jay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G-Lad 0 Posted January 12, 2012 Also, would disconnecting the battery play a role in this issue? Thanx again 4 your input fellas, GREATLY appreciated! probably, yes. it takes miles of driving for a VR to reset itself nicely after loosing the battery connection. Search for articles by RW1 and look for the key word VAGCOM. Basically if you have disconnected then your best bet is to disconnect again, then once you reconnect, follow Chris / RW1's instructions on how to reset. Sorry, I would link the wiki article but I'm on my mobile... good luck! Chris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StArRaDo 10 Posted January 12, 2012 U guys rock. Gona check on that artice and try 2 take a look @ the top of that housing ASAP! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StArRaDo 10 Posted January 14, 2012 Update...swapped fuel filter and repaired awkwardly fastened coolant hose. Took a long hard look @ the leak and surrounding areas, decifering my course of action if possible, and opted to take her the mechanic :shrug: After debating long and hard, it just made sense considering I did not have any appropiate parts 4 replacement if and when I started tearing in2 her. The leak as said previously has gotten worse, and just couldnt wait any longer. Really wish I had the tools and a parts warehouse around the corner so I could do it all myself...but sometimes you got 2 do what you got 2 do. Update when I get her back, we'll see if it was indeed the Oil pressure sensor, or cooler... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StArRaDo 10 Posted January 19, 2012 Check THIS ish out....So I dropped her off 9AM Last FRI, to the IMPORT PROFESSIONAL here in Clermont FL, located off Old 50 toward 27, little industrial park place. SO she wound up staying over the weekend due to 1, him not getting to the car on FRI and 2, not being there SAT. SO Mon passes, Tues comes, 5pm I call and he says, "Oh the part got here late", long story short I get her WED round 4pm.... Now when I dropped her off I told him he's looking for an obvious oil leak coming from above Oil Filter Housing. He did call Mon and confirm it was the Gasket for the housing where it mounts to the block. I'm like fkn awsome, handle it. He also points out that my oil pan had some oil on it and recommended it also be replaced (with the leak, oil has been traveling down and back the whole under carriage of the car)...for both the Oil Filter housing gasket and Oil pan replacement he quoted me 400 bones...LOL (This figure 8 gasket is on ECS for 8 bucks). I told him not to worry bout the pan (doin that ish in the garage) and just do the Oil Filter housing gasket, which was a total of 170 (His price for firgure 8 gasket $22). Now I pick her up, park her and throw the faithful cardboard under her. Handle biz @ home, ready for work (work overnights) pull the cardboard from under her, AND FKN OIL! Just bout as much as last time...WTF...think Ima call him 2morrow?... in the meanwhile I'ma take a peak early this morning, mostly after I drop my kid 2 school...All in all I'm happy I got her back...but man I'm let down Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tentonhammer 10 Posted January 19, 2012 Oil leaks are always a pain in the arse mainly because there's so much cleaning and waiting involved. Clean EVERYTHING, keep topping her up and take your time, try to isolate the problem. Has the hesitation / stuttering stopped? If not I'd def check ECU / connections etc before doing anything else. A bad connection might be at fault here. Ten Ton Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StArRaDo 10 Posted January 20, 2012 Thanx hammer, will do. The hesitation has stopped significantly. She did "buck" on me once since I've gotten her back, but only once, in 5th none the less. I indeed plan on tackling the ecu by the end of the week, anything in particular I should know before I disconnect and remove the ecu? Thanx again fellas, U guys have been a GREAT help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tentonhammer 10 Posted January 20, 2012 Some very good G60 engine information on here: http://www.matey-matey.com/g60-guide.shtml There are a number things that will contribute to the ECU playing up, engine guide explains what these are / where to look etc. Good luck! Ten Ton Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
StArRaDo 10 Posted January 29, 2012 So finally got her back 2 dude this past Friday. Turned out the gasket he replaced got pinched during installation, got her back and leak is gone :dance: Super happy it wasn't something else. Now on 2 the rest of her! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tentonhammer 10 Posted January 30, 2012 That'll do it alright. Happy days :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
