2.8 AAA engine swappage!

[Benjevw 10]

Hey guys I've had a search but can't find a solid answer.

Would this swap straight over in place of the 2.9? Not the obd2 stuff, just the block and head?

 

Is it just a case of fitting all my original stuff to the 2.8 head and block?

 

Cheers

 

Ben

[robo22sri 10]

Yup just need to bolt on the 2.9 inlet etc and done

[Benjevw 10]

Sweet cheers. Any difference between dizzy n coilpack engines? Mines a coilpack but not sure about the golf 1. If not will my coilpack bolt on?

I've bought a 100,000 mile engine (new chain guides) for 60 quid!

Would it be worth doing the chains aswell while it's accessible ?

Also the engine has no belts on it! Is it just a case of fitting new ones and away you go? Or do they have to be put on a certain way?

 

I haven't really done much engine work when the engines out so any tips/comments really appreciated.

Or if there's a thread on something like this already that I could read though?

 

Cheers

Ben

[P3rks 11]

Sweet cheers. Any difference between dizzy n coilpack engines? Mines a coilpack but not sure about the golf 1. If not will my coilpack bolt on?

I've bought a 100,000 mile engine (new chain guides) for 60 quid!

Would it be worth doing the chains aswell while it's accessible ?

Also the engine has no belts on it! Is it just a case of fitting new ones and away you go? Or do they have to be put on a certain way?

 

I haven't really done much engine work when the engines out so any tips/comments really appreciated.

Or if there's a thread on something like this already that I could read though?

 

Cheers

Ben

 

Coilpack and dizzy engines are effectively the same. If the golf turns out to be dizzy, you only need to change the metal plate covering the cam chain on the head from the coilpack engine to the dizzy one for a coilpack to mount.

 

Make sure you change the AAA cams to the ABV ones as they are higher lift iirc.

 

As for maintenance when the engines out. I'd say clutch, cam chains inspected at the least or changed if you have the spare money, crank oil seal (behind the clutch) and any other seal where oil is leaking from (rocker cover or sump probably).

[Benjevw 10]

Coilpack and dizzy engines are effectively the same. If the golf turns out to be dizzy, you only need to change the metal plate covering the cam chain on the head from the coilpack engine to the dizzy one for a coilpack to mount.

 

Make sure you change the AAA cams to the ABV ones as they are higher lift iirc.

 

As for maintenance when the engines out. I'd say clutch, cam chains inspected at the least or changed if you have the spare money, crank oil seal (behind the clutch) and any other seal where oil is leaking from (rocker cover or sump probably).

 

Cheers EnthusiastOwned

Is changing the cams needed? Or just better performance at top end ?

 

Here what I got

 

He sed the timing chain guide rails have been done. Is this the tensioners? It's from a 95 golf "very clean inside and out". It does look v clean in the pics but untill I go to pick it up I won't know for sure.

 

I'm looking to do it the cheapest I can really as its just a replacement.

It isn't included but would the golf vr gearbox go in?

 

Cheers

Ben

[P3rks 11]

95 will be coilpack.

 

It's got a plastic rocker which is desirable for a quieter top end, lighter too.

 

I believe the 2.9 cams are higher lift so better top end. I believe the only difference between the 2.8 ad 2.9 is cams, inlet manifold, throttle body, ecu and bottom end bore.

 

The Golf VR6 gearbox will fit but I believe the final drive is longer on the Golf box compared to the Corrado VR box, so slower acceleration. The Corrado box is more desirable as a result.

[Benjevw 10]

Yea I was wondering if it had the plastic rocker. Sweet !

 

Any info on the belts? Do I simply just put them on

 

I'll try source a rado box but if not is the g60 final drive an option?

[P3rks 11]

Yea I was wondering if it had the plastic rocker. Sweet !

 

Any info on the belts? Do I simply just put them on

 

I'll try source a rado box but if not is the g60 final drive an option?

 

Golf/Corrado Vr6 box with a G60 final drive is what you ideally want..

 

Belts, as in axillary? Yeah, just simply put them on, no aligning needed on that part.

[Benjevw 10]

Cool that's great thanx alot .

I take it I'll need to sorce a whole g60 box?

 

Are you breaking the engine from the golf you've got by any chance? Lol

[VR6Pete 0]

Pretty sure gearboxes were the same in the golf and corrado UK models. Just picked up a spare vr6 box and g60 box to do a 3.68 final drive upgrade.

[Benjevw 10]

Nice! How much did u get the g60 box for? ( if u don't mind me askin :))

[P3rks 11]

Pretty sure gearboxes were the same in the golf and corrado UK models. Just picked up a spare vr6 box and g60 box to do a 3.68 final drive upgrade.

 

You're probably right, I've just been doing loads of research for the final drives so got too many numbers in my head.

 

As far as I'm aware there were 3 codes for VR6 Gearboxes: CDM and CCM/CHN. Difference being the final drive ratio for one was 3.65 and the other 3.39. Unsure which came in which and what years. I think all Corrado's have the 3.39 though? But this would mean some VR6 boxes have faster acceleration?

 

Edit: Ignore me, the US Corrado's had the short ratio VR6 boxes (CDM?) so their 2.8 engines matched the continental 2.9's in acceleration.

 

So all VR6 UK spec boxes were the same:

 

Source: http://www.turbo-conversion.com/16v-turbo-conversion/16v-turbo-conversion/54

Edited April 7, 2012 by P3rks

[robo22sri 10]

Ben once you have swapped your engines over do you fancy selling the pullys of the main crank and water pump?

 

I am building an engine up but dont have them spare ;)

[Benjevw 10]

Ben once you have swapped your engines over do you fancy selling the pullys of the main crank and water pump?

 

I am building an engine up but dont have them spare ;)

 

Hi rob. Unsure what the replacement has on it yet so I may need it. If not I'll let you know :)

[robo22sri 10]

That's cool bud, let me know :)

[P3rks 11]

That's cool bud, let me know :)

 

If he doesn't have any spare, I will.

[Benjevw 10]

Hey guys

It's been a while but I'm finally getting sorted to swap this over! I've just got a few questions :)

 

1. How can you tell if the chains have been replaced? If possible!

 

2. I've heard people say to change the clutch release bearing while its easy to get to! Where is this?

 

3. Is it worth swapping over the cams?

 

4. What's the best paint to use for engine painting? Hi-temp?

 

Getting it mounted on my stand asap so will get some pics up when it happens.

 

Cheers

Ben

[Benjevw 10]

HELP !! :)

 

Started stripping some bits off of the spare engine yesterday.

Was following the timing chain wiki on here as I wanted to remove the upper and lower chain covers to check the chains and guides for wear.

So I got the rocker cover off and the spark plugs out but when I turn the crank I can't turn It enough to get it to TDC! I can get the marks on the pulley and block lined up but needs to turn round another revolution to get the cams in the right place(For the locking tool to fit)and cyl 1 to TDC !

When I try to turn the crank it just stops about quarter turn around!

I don't want to force it as I've heard that it can bend valves.

Am I correct in thinking this is what's happening?

 

I think I'm going to remove both chains and tensioners,guides ect and re time it!

 

Can I take the top tensioner out without it being at TDC? Or will this cause problems?

 

I've used the search but can't find a definitive answer!

 

Any help is greatly appreciated

 

Cheers

Ben

[Roger Blassberg 0]

I don't see any reason not to take the top tensioner plunger out as long as you aren't going to turn the engine over. The head gasket extension (between the upper and lower covers) is protected until you take the covers off.

 

How about taking the camshafts and the timing gear out at this stage? That way you will be absolutely sure that all valves are safely out of the way. Then inspect the guiderails and tensioners, replace if necessary (do it anyway !!) then bring the engine to TDC and put the camshafts back as close as possible to the correct orientation. Then align the slots for final timing and re-assemble the chains, guides and tensioners. Check, and then re-check and then re-re-check that it's all lined up. The Wiki guide is very good.

 

By the way, the sealing paste for the covers is very expensive, but worth it in my opinion

[Benjevw 10]

I don't see any reason not to take the top tensioner plunger out as long as you aren't going to turn the engine over. The head gasket extension (between the upper and lower covers) is protected until you take the covers off.

 

How about taking the camshafts and the timing gear out at this stage? That way you will be absolutely sure that all valves are safely out of the way. Then inspect the guiderails and tensioners, replace if necessary (do it anyway !!) then bring the engine to TDC and put the camshafts back as close as possible to the correct orientation. Then align the slots for final timing and re-assemble the chains, guides and tensioners. Check, and then re-check and then re-re-check that it's all lined up. The Wiki guide is very good.

 

By the way, the sealing paste for the covers is very expensive, but worth it in my opinion

 

 

Thanks roger, so once the tensioner plunger and top cover is removed,there will be enough slack on the chain to remove the cams? Or can the top chain be removed too?

 

When I bought the engine, the guy said that the guide rails have been done! There is what looks like new sealant around the covers so something has been done behind there!

 

If all was timed up correctly the engine should crank over by hand(socket on pulley) shouldn't it?

 

Cheers

Ben

[Roger Blassberg 0]

You should be able to get the camshafts out once the plunger has been removed and the top chain is slack, but you won't be able to get the top tensioner blade out because its pivot is below the split line, nor the chain, because it won't go past the middle transfer sprocket with the lower cover in place. To get the lower cover off you have to take off the the clutch and the flywheel.

 

As you say, if the valve timing is correct, then the engine should turn over without restriction.

[Benjevw 10]

You should be able to get the camshafts out once the plunger has been removed and the top chain is slack, but you won't be able to get the top tensioner blade out because its pivot is below the split line, nor the chain, because it won't go past the middle transfer sprocket with the lower cover in place. To get the lower cover off you have to take off the the clutch and the flywheel.

 

As you say, if the valve timing is correct, then the engine should turn over without restriction.

 

Sorry mate I should've said earlier that the engines out of the car and clutch/flywheel are already off!

 

Thanks for the help roger ill let ya all know how I get on :)

 

Cheers

Ben

[Benjevw 10]

Hey guys

 

So I've removed the cams and I still can't crank the engine over by hand!! The valves should be out of the way now :(

 

Anyone got any ideas?

Can't find anything on search!

 

 

Also the head gasket has been snapped where the chains go through it!

 

I don't have to get the head skimmed when I change the head gasket do I?

 

Are all vr6 head gaskets the same?

 

What size spline bit do I need for the head bolts?

T90?

 

 

The top tensioner pad is in ok condition with only a few little marks in it which is good! And the plastic guide is pretty much brand new aswell.

 

 

 

Sorry for all the questions,

 

Thanks in advance

 

Ben

[Roger Blassberg 0]

You are probably aware that the later top tensioner is a solid pad of plastic, rather than the riveted composite plastic/metal which you have. I agree that it is in good condition, but if you intend to keep the car "for ever" I think the newer type is more durable and in your situation I would put that in , particularly as you have done 90% of the work already to get at it.

I would tke the bottom half of the timing case off now to replace the crankshaft oil seal behind the flywheel and to investigate the jamming of the engine which may be caused by the lower chain/ guide/ tensioner. Or the oil pump, driven by the intermediate sprocket/shaft has something jamming it. Or maybe there is something in the combustion chamber actually obstructing the piston as it rises; this will be obvious when you take the head off. You shouldn't need to get the head skimmed unless it is pitted/corroded due to low concentrations of corrosion inhibitor in the coolant over the years. I would, though, have it checked for flatness even if it looks good to the naked eye. These heads are easily warped by overheating, and I would hazard a guess that the previous owner may have been a bit careless judging by the head gasket damage, almost certainly done when the chain job was carried out. Good luck and keep the questions coming if you need to; that's what we are all here for!

 

RB

[Benjevw 10]

Cheers for that roger. I'm continuing with the engine on Friday so ill update the situation then :)

 

I would change the tensioner to the later type but I'm not planning on keeping the engine in there for too long.

I'm saving to do all the chains/tensioners/guides on my original engine but just wanna chuck this in there while its being done so I've still got a daily!