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Steering Lock - MOT

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am i right to think that all corrados came with steering locks as standard?

 

if so, I'll be needing a new one due to the updated MOT regulations - does anybody know a part number?

mine is a 1990 valver, don't know if theres any difference between early/late..

steering lock doesn't engage, so it's either failed or doesn't exist

 

thanks,

Dave

 

---------- Post added at 6:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:01 PM ----------

 

additionally, where do you guys get part numbers from?

maybe i can look them up in the future rather than being a complete newb :)

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Your steering lock doesn't work!!?? never heard of that happening before unless mr scumbag robber has been at it. I would imagine you'll be needing either a new ignition barrel or steering column, both of which would scare the crap out of me getting a price from VW.

 

Oh and for part numbers I personally either google it or use vagcat (http://www.vagcat.com), its not working at the moment but you'll need to register

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nope, didn't bother me when i bought the car but now they've introduced the new MOT regulations it needs replacing :@

suppose a light-fingered deviant might of been at it in the past, i've got reciepts for new window glass/dash fascia/stereo!!

not sure if they had a go at the ignition, there's no obvious damage

 

oh dear, REALLY hope i don't need a new steering column..

as simple as using google? awesome, I'll get doing that now. thanks

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When my car got broken into and the ignition barrel smashed, I tried to break the steering lock so I could drive it home and I couldn't do it so its not like it might have worn out!

 

There are plenty of people breaking corrado's with steering columns you could buy, only downside is its a new key job, ie you can't tumble the ignition barrel. Make sure you check whether its adjustable or fixed when looking for one, don't know if theres any difference between early or late.

 

Didn't mean to sound abrupt but I literally go on google and I'll type in exactly what I want and see what comes back

"corrado steering column part number" if that doesn't work I punch it into forums directly. Vagcat is good but just ignore all the prices and if you do find the part number you need just double check it is the actual correct part before paying for it or even ordering it.

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Sorry but you can retumble thumble the ignition lock.

Theres a hole you drill and pin inside that you press in. But you stil need the key that goes with that ignition lock for it to slide out

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Turn your ignition on then turn off and remove key. Insert the key again and turn ignition on. Did you feel any resistence when turning? Now turn ignition off and on again (without removing key) did you feel any resistence? More or less then the first time?

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haha thanks beasite, slighty frustrating that i bought a new ignition switch only a few weeks ago!

do you think this housing is supplied with the lock inside of it?

 

 

I'll give that a go when I'm driving home later floppyman :salute:

 

---------- Post added at 8:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:04 PM ----------

 

part number for the steering lock is 535 905 851 (with height adjustment) and 351 905 851 (without height adjustment)

 

This site proved pretty useful for the part numbers: http://home.comcast.net/~caudex/corrado/corradoparts.pdf

 

 

that ebay advert says it's only for non-height adjustable models, so i'm geussing that won't fit?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK2-MK3-GTI-CORRADO-STEERING-LOCK-HOUSING-C370-/200750699021?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ebdac920d

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Right, now I've. Just had this problem on my 8v, turned out the lock barrel was at fault. a pattern one for a tenner sorted it. What happens is when you remove the key the spring in the barrel isn't strong enough to disengage the steering lock so the locking mechanism doesn't then engage the column

Edited by davidwort

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hmm interesting, how would reccommend diagnosing whether it's the lock barrel or the steering lock at fault?

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Drill a little hole in the casing to remove the lock barrel, there's a hidden sprung tag to release the lock barrel, see my fixed column how to for where to drill. Then with the barrel out the steering lock will engage if this is the fault.

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great, thanks david - i'll give this a go in the next week or two. If it works i'm definately going to start considering you one of the heroes of this forum! :grin:

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Sorry but you can retumble thumble the ignition lock.

Theres a hole you drill and pin inside that you press in. But you stil need the key that goes with that ignition lock for it to slide out

Just to correct this: you can't retumble an ignition barrel - they're made fitting one key only and you can't change it to fit a different key. What you can do is pull it out and replace it with a different lock cylinder - which is what you're doing when you drill the hole in the housing and push the spring-loaded bar on the cylinder. There's no way to make one cylinder fit a different key, you have to buy a new one coded to the correct key combination from VW - I checked the prices yesterday and they're £45...

 

All the other lock barrels can be retumbled, so normally to make them all match you have to get a secondhand ignition barrel with key and adjust the door, boot and glovebox locks to match the ignition.

 

Also you don't need the matching key to remove the barrel after drilling the hole to access the locking spring, any AH pattern key will do. I did it last week with the fixed column I picked up in the scrapyard :)

 

Stone

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Thanks for clarifying stone

 

£45 sounds on the expensive side for a key, so if this is the problem then I'll be getting the new barrel with new set of keys.

The doors are de-locked, so it's only the boot that would need re-tumbling - havn't got the first clue how that might be done..

how can you get the pins for doing this?

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The lock tumblers can only be bought as a large expensive set afaik, but you can file down old ones or swap them from old vw locks, just like I haven't done with 4 keys for the one car now :lol:

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hahaha four different keys!! looks like I might have to butcher my old door handles to get the tumblers out then

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well, you spurred me on to do something about those keys, as I've just put a new ignition barrel in I thought I'd retumble the other locks, done both driver and passenger handles but ran out of spare no3 tumbers, so I did the nasty thing and filed down the ones that weren't right. I just have a different one for the boot now, which isn't too bad as that can be turned level so the CL locks and unlocks it.

I'm glad I did them actually, as the lock mechs were pretty dirty and needed a clean and re-grease anyway.

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£45 sounds on the expensive side for a key, so if this is the problem then I'll be getting the new barrel with new set of keys.

It's £45 for the barrel! Keys are extra...

 

 

The doors are de-locked, so it's only the boot that would need re-tumbling - havn't got the first clue how that might be done..

how can you get the pins for doing this?

Undo the two nuts holding the boot lock on and pull the linkages free from the two white plastic pieces (they just pull straight out, push hard to clip them back in). The boot lock comes away as a whole - you then drive out the pin holding the cylinder into the lock mechanism/surround and it will come out with the correct key inserted. If you haven't got the matching key you have to pick it - or you may get lucky by preloading it slightly in one direction and forcing a non-matching key in and out to 'bump' the tumblers up and down. When the key is not inserted the wafers are pushed by their individual spring and should stick out of one side or the other of the barrel, which blocks rotation. When the correct key is inserted the wafers should all line up flush with the barrel. New wafers and springs can be had from VW for crazy money (sold as a kit with many of each), or you can reuse old ones or make friends with a local VW place who may just give you some ;) If they're stuck, which is common with the boot locks, try soaking the cylinder in WD40 for a couple of weeks, or convincing them out with an automatic centrepunch, or both. You can leave some wafers unpopulated if you can't find matching ones, but for a corresponding loss of security as more keys will fit the lock. Experiment! :)

 

Stone

 

Edited by davidwort

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well, I've had a go at this and it turned out to be... interesting..

 

started off by removing all the cowling to gain access to the steering lock housing, ready to drill out the ignition barrel..

however, there was already a hole exactly where i was going to drill - so the barrel has definitely been out or perhaps replaced in the past. 'fair enough' i thought to myself, seems to be a genuine VAG barrel.

 

slightly less comforting is the butchered steering lock housing..

I'm geussing there is meant to be some kind of pin that pushes into the notch in steering column - but this didn't exist/had been removed and is probably responsible for my lack of steering lock :'(

 

anyway, after that i moved onto the ignition switch which apparently wasn't working..

removed it and thought i'd have a go at twisting it with the ignition switch, while there both out of the housing

the car turns over almost hits the garage door because i've left it in gear!!! (wasn't expecting it to work.. oops)

i thought something within the switch mech much be worn, so went about putting the new switch into the housing with the ignition barrel. plugged in the connector, took the car OUT of gear, turned the key... nothing.. BOLL*CKS

took it all apart again, twisted the new switch with the ignition barrel while out of the housing and it fires into life..

 

it seems as if the barrel mech isn't turning the switch mech far enough in it's 3rd position?

 

so running out of ideas i took the original switch to pieces, cleaned all the contacts, put it back together

and now it works just fine.. ??

 

:shrug:

 

at the end of the day, i think my car just craves attention

Edited by dingo

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