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tentonhammer

Hydraulic Clutch / Pump

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I've been trying to work out why my C 92 16V 2.0 is idling like a panting dog at the moment?? Seriously, she sounds like my rotti. Got to get to the bottom of what's going on.

 

When ignition on and idling (car stood still engine warm) RPM's bounce from 1000 - 1250 in fairly quick succession. IDLE DOES NOT SIT STILL. The only way to get around this is by depressing clutch slightly (to just before the bite), idle bouncing stops and idle returns to a stable 1000. This makes driving about a real nightmare because I'm constantly depressing the clutch at low RPM's to correct / stablize idle.

 

Could this mean there's a problem with my hydraulics / Pump maybe?

 

Would be great to hear your thoughts on this one.

 

Cheers,

 

Ten Ton

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I think you're just affecting the idle by slipping the clutch, red herring really.

you need to check everything related to the inlet manifold, take off for brake servo, all the vac pipes etc, idle issues are usually down to air leaks on the inlet side, the bouncing is the idle circuit trying to keep the idle steady against a leaking system.

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I think you're right, just covering all bases really, I might have missed something.

 

Come to think of it - My ABS is working OK, had to anchor on the brakes a couple of days ago and ABS kicked in immediately. If I had a air in the system / low fluid or hydraulic pump was faulty etc this would surely affect the brake response / feel of brake pedal or clutch pedal?

 

Def could be a red hearing... Systematically going through everything now

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Bouncing revs on my old 2.0 16v were caused for me by a duff ISV..

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Cleaned ISV (first thing I thought of actually) with carb cleaner until it ran near enough clear. No jams or clogs on flap inside. Flap opens and closes manually with no problems.

 

I want to be able to check if ISV opens and closes as it should with the car running - haven't tried doing this yet, presumably it can be done?

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12v applied will click them open and shut, but that doesn't mean they will operate smoothly and keep the revs balanced, no amount of cleaning fixes them sometimes.

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Is there a process to go through when checking / cleaning / replacing vac pipes to sort idle issues like this?

 

I would have thought by removing brake servo you put air into the system which will only add to my problems if not done correctly - is there a procedure for this?

 

Cheers,

 

---------- Post added at 11:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:48 AM ----------

 

12v applied will click them open and shut, but that doesn't mean they will operate smoothly and keep the revs balanced, no amount of cleaning fixes them sometimes.

 

Nice one.

 

Hear you on the ISV cleaning, they can be well twitchy if they want to be

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