Starting Circuit

[fla 9]

Could someone confirm what the connections on relay 150 are - perhaps a picture of the connection and the relay (plus pins)? I have a feeling that my starting problem and battery drain is due to this relay not opening and closing properly.

thanks

Edited July 5, 2012 by fla

[fla 9]

OK my 150 relay seems to operate fine. Can someone please confirm the gap below regarding the ignition circuit:

 

ignition switch

relay panel

relay 150

immobiliser

GAP - where does the output fromrelay 150 go to? I assume this is from the white connector at the back and then to the starter relay?

starter solenoid

 

I just want the physical power route.

 

Negative will be ground from the starter body to the -ve in the battery?

 

thanks

[Supercharged 2]

Don't think relay 150 has anything to do with starting the car!

 

Just the ECU relay 109 that is activated on startup

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I think 150 is one of the load reduction relays that turns the stereo etc off during cranking....

[fla 9]

Mine was an auto before though, cant remember the exact details but one section of this was for the starter the other for the reverse lights.

In a 'regular' manual car, does 150 have any other function other than load reduction? If not, which relay is used for the starter solenoid?

[Supercharged 2]

There isn't a relay Fla... wire goes directly from ignition switch to starter and then starter draws power directly from battery / alternator circuit.

[fla 9]

is there no fuse in the relay panel for it? Do you know which colour wire from the switch to the solenoid?

[RW1 0]

H.

 

150 is the starter inhibitor relay and reverse light switches.

 

Also, for RHD there is small switch for starter inhibit by the gear shift, Red/Black wires in and out. Ignition feed goes through this switch from the key switch (via the relay panel internal busbars). It arrives at relay 150 on pin 5 as Red/Black wire. The Red wire on tis pin goes to the engine ECU.

 

At relay 150, the internal contact supplies the thick Red/Black wire (4mm) off pin 8 goes to the starter solenoid. It draws its supply on the thick Red wire (4mm) on pin 2 from the battery busbar (30) in the relay plate.

 

Fuse is S14, 10 amps, Black wire feed to relay 150 pin from ignition switched (15) relay panel busbar. This is the only fuse and its a supply for the reversing lights only.

 

.

[fla 9]

RW - thought you'd disappeared, i was waiting for your knowledge input!

 

OK, so i am getting power to relay 150 but not to the starter solenoid. I'll check the wiring by the gearshift - is this also a red/black from the ignition? If so i'll check continuty from there.

 

Is there a simple way to replicate in its entirety the manual ignition wiring circuit, thereby getting rid of 150 and wiring the reverse lights directly?

 

thanks

 

Hasan

[RW1 0]

H. You know the garage email!

 

Autobox (RHDrive) 12 volt Control Voltage

 

This circuit controls the Starter Solenoid 12 volt supply to act as the Starter Inhibit circuit. It activates relay contacts inside Relay 150 to switch the 12 volts from the ignition switch onto the Starter Solenoid connection.

 

Ignition switch ---- Red/Black wire (4mm) ----- Relay Panel plug H1, pin 1

 

Through the Relay Panel internal busbars.

 

Relay Panel plug F, pin 1 ---- Black wire (0.5mm) ----- Inline Connector (2 pin) above Relay Panel.

 

Inline Connector (2 pin) above Relay panel ----- Red wire (0.5mm) ----- 6 way inline connector by Gearshift

 

6 way inline connector by Gearshift ------ Red/Black wire (0.5mm) ----- Mirco Switch by Gearshift (Start inhibit switch)

 

Mirco Switch by Gearshift (Start inhibit switch) ---- Red/Black wire (0.5mm) ----- 6 way inline connector by Gearshift

 

6 way inline connector by Gearshift ------ Red/Black wire (0.5mm) ------- Relay 150, pin 6

 

Relay 150, pin 6 carries on to Engine ECU pin 7 as Red wire (0.5mm)

 

 

Autobox (RHDrive) 12 volt Solenoid Load Voltage Supply Circuit

 

This circuit is the 12 volt Starter Solenoid supply interrupted by Relay 150. Providing the Starter Inhibit switch is closed (switched ON), Relay 150 will throw interal relay contacts to route 12 volts to the Starter Solenoid.

 

Supplied from the Battery Busbar (30) inside the Relay Panel .....

 

Relay Panel, connection 30 ----- Red wire (4mm) ----- Relay 150, pin 2

(Connection 30 is the lowest of 3 Lucas connectors in a vertical column by the mounting lug for the Relay Panel onto the underdash metal frame. It is in a Red plug on the bottom row of plugs outboard side end. The Red plug is an Red adaptor which takes two other thick Red wires connected by Lucas connections in its head.)

 

Relay 150, pin 8 ------ Red/Black wire (4mm) ----- Inline Connector (2 pin) above Relay Panel

 

Inline Connector (2 pin) above Relay Panel ----- Reb/Black wire (4mm) ------ Starter Solenoid

 

.........................................

 

Relay 150 Removal Re-Wire

 

Ignition/Starter Autobox by-pass

 

Replicate manual gearbox circuit by taking a 4mm wire direct from Relay Panel Plug F, pin 1* to the Starter Solenoid connection direct. (4mm = 30 - 40 amps-ish.)

* Your current wire pin 1 connection will only be a 0.5mm Black wire which needs to be removed entirely and the 4mm wire connected instead due to the electrical current load.

 

Reverse Light Auto by-pass

 

Simple way is to run two wires to the manual gearbox reverse switch using 1mm wire.

 

Find plug D (Green 12 pin) on the Relay panel. Pin 9 is vacant (if you have a suitable end fitting connection to put into pin 9 position) Or Plug F (White 12 pin) and scotch Lock to Black (1mm) wire off pin 6. (This the reverse light supply feed off Fuse S14.)

Take the fly wire to the reverse light switch on the gearbox.

 

Next, connect a 1mm wire to Plug F, pin 7 by Scotch Loc. Take the other end to the Reverse Light Switch other connection on the gearbox.

 

.

Edited July 6, 2012 by RW1

[fla 9]

thanks RW. Relay 150 Removal Re-Wire

 

Ignition/Starter Autobox by-pass

 

Replicate manual gearbox circuit by taking a 4mm wire direct from Relay Panel Plug F, pin 1* to the Starter Solenoid connection direct. (4mm = 30 - 40 amps-ish.)

* Your current wire pin 1 connection will only be a 0.5mm Black wire which needs to be removed entirely and the 4mm wire connected instead due to the electrical current load.

 

I did this part during the auto-manual swop, so will check the integrity of thsi wiring again. I'm not sure if i've described the symptoms accurately though? The thing i cant ientify is the reason for the 'pause' in ignition, if it decides to turn over that is! It is literally a fraction of a second as though there is a loose connection somewhere. However, even after a drive, when parked up, something drains the battery quickly which i am beginning to think may be the starter solenoid remaining in circuit perhaps? However, this doesnt explain why the car wont even turn over, though all the dash lights come on. Will pm you later to discuss.