Having camber reset today anyone shed any info?

[britpop95 0]

Hello everyone a i had the car lowered recently 45mm springs and the front tryes are leaning inwards and causing them to wear on the inside. So today the camber is being set back to factory setting. Will this stop the tyres leaning inwards or at least help? I saw no other option but to have the camber done as ive already had to change the front tyres due to the inside wearing away completley because of the leaning.

[VR6Joni 0]

Probs more to do with tracking the tyre wear, so get that done also, camber affects steering response and stability more from my experience. Adjusting ride hight adjusts camber and tracking so just get them both done.

I found -1° camber and 0° toe drove real nice.

Edited August 17, 2012 by VR6Joni

[davidwort 0]

If both tyres are wearing on the inside you either have mega negative camber on both sides (unlikely) or the wheels are toe-ing out (i.e. not parallel) and track rods need adjusting.

Toe out will cause feathering of the rubber rather than just wear as the rubber is essentially being ripped away at an angle rather than just taking more weight

 

Camber is more of a preference thing, but like VR6Joni says 1 degree negative is about right for most wheels and tyres on the Corrado and parallel (zero) toe or very very slightly toe-ing in as FWD cars tend to toe out slightly more under acceleration

 

completely vertical wheels |---| (zero camber), or even worse positive camber \---/ will feel horrible on corners as the tyre face will loose some contact or pressure on the ground and the Mcpherson strut on the corrado doesn't keep the wheel upright like a double wishbone setup would.

Edited August 17, 2012 by davidwort

[DriverVR6 11]

This question has been asked so many times that I think I'll do a definitive guide with photos, etc.

[dr_mat 0]

Yeah, this is the basic problem with lowering the car .. with a single wishbone and strut set up you'll never quite get the same geometry as for the standard ride height. That said, 45mm isn't that big a change, so setting it up to match factory spec is undoubtedly your best bet.

[britpop95 0]

Thanks for your replies guys. When i picked the car up from having the camber done the car now handles a lot better and feels a lot more confident in the corners. The guys at the garage gave me a before/after result on paper and turns out the camber was way out. Went to harewood today and felt great down the B roads

[Stonejag 10]

Found out today I've burned through a brand new front tyre in under 3 months :( There's tons of tread left but very severe wear on the inner edges of both front wheels (exactly where you can't spot it easily!) so they're now mega-illegal... So would I be right to assume my tracking's going to be way out too?

 

My car's lowered by 40-60mm; not sure exactly how much as I've cranked it 40+mm up from where it was when I bought it. All the threads seem to say lowered Cs are about right with -1 negative camber but is there anything else I need to tell the guys at the tyre place so they can get it right first time? £140 in tyres after another three months would be quite upsetting!

 

Cheers :)

 

Stone

[VR6Joni 0]

Just for any DIY'ers out there, this little box can get your camber pretty much spot on. Reset on the bonnet (on a relatively flat surface), check current camber and note it down. Then correct it by sticking it to the brake disc, resetting and adjusting by the initial error. My local ATS do it with the wheel on, err not easy!

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Protractor-Inclinometer-Leather-Batteries/dp/B001YJ8F8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346327196&sr=8-1

[LRWMotorsport 10]

Don't forget, When you change the camber the toe will also change.

Set camber first, then correct toe.

I agree with Davidwort with regard to the toe angle increasing under acceleration (out/+ve) but it is also important to remember toe angle will decrease (in/-ve) when braking however.......

In my experience I always set toe slightly +ve on road/race cars so that it is as close to neutral as positive during braking and therefore turn in.

Yes the toe angle will be more +ve under acceleration but I have found the effect to be less detrimental here than an excess of -ve toe angle during turn in when the front of the car is still loaded.

At the end of the day it's all personal preference and there is no substitute for experimenting with the settings and finding what changes make a notable difference. If any.

[dr_mat 0]

If you lower it far enough the track rod ends will no longer be level and the car will toe out slightly, so you'd have to re-adjust both camber and tracking after a ride height adjustment.

Bear in mind that if you lower it that far then the drive shafts will be out of alignment too .. now they're designed to cope with this for a time, but you've got to ask if it's the right thing to do in the long term. If you're doing it right you'd have to adjust the engine/gearbox height to match..

[LRWMotorsport 10]

........ don't even get me started on bump steer with these things either!