Offside breaks squealing

[Simon vr6 10]

Hi guys just wanted somebody elses opinion on the problem I have with my VR6.

 

Took it into a garage today to have it MOT'd. Failed on offside rear wheel bearing having excessive play. They siad they would do the work for £79. Whilst driving the car home today heard a sudden bang and the steering wobbled, thought nothing of it. But just got back in to the car, drove it down the road and the rear brake is squealing so loud that you can hear me coming a mile off!!!! The bearing that they have claimed to fix is now making a crunching sound when I turn left. My dad reckons that they did not replace the wheel bearing and just tightened it. He also thinks that they didn't clean up the brake disc or lubricate them before refitting. Do you think the garage are to blame for this fault? Will I be able to get them to fix this free of charge seems as it was absolutely fine this morning!

 

Any advice would be welcome :)

 

Thanks Simon

[Critical_Mass 10]

Hard to say without finding out the actual cause. Id be checking the carrier bolts as theyve come loose on me before and caused a loud squeal as the carrier and caliper along with pads are able to move when you press the brake. Theyd have had to take the carrier off to get the disc off to then change the bearing - assuming they havent just tightened the bearing up. If they have then it sounds like theyve tightened it too much and worn the bearing out. The bearings only need to be finger tight then a v slight turn with a spanner - weight of hand resting ontop of a horizontal spanner. Though what your dad says about lubing the bearing before hand is a good point and the bearing could have overheated and siezed - assuming they can sieze when overheat.

 

They should have changed the race too if they actually have change the bearing. Wouldnt drive it until youve checked the brakes are secure. Note ideally new carrier bolts should be used once theyve been taken off as they can get mashed up trying to get them off.

Edited November 6, 2012 by Critical_Mass

[seanl82 23]

Id second the above. I did my own last time, and as said the hub bolt only needs to be nipped up. I did mine too tight, and as soon as the bearing got hot (pretty quickly with alot of friction due to being too tight) the bearing expanded due to the heat, had nowhere to go outwards, so pretty much imploded and disintigrated the bearing! Arse end started wobbling all over the place! Needed a new stub axle in the end too as it had scored it so much. Take it back and demand they do it again free of charge, whilst also pointing out that its a tapred bearing therefore not to be done too tight!

[Simon vr6 10]

Thanks for the advice guys just about to take the car to the garage. Will up date later

[Simon vr6 10]

Got my car back from the garage today. They accepted that they didn't check the bearing properly before tightening which is why it disintegrated.This may have been caused by the stub axle as it was worn?!?!?. They have replaced that and seems to be working fine, did cost me a further £54 which im not too happy about! Hopefully won't have to spend anymore money on my Rado as it has cost me at least £1100 in the last 3 weeks. Why do I love my Rado so much?

[Critical_Mass 10]

What did the £54 cover? If they've admitted not checking the bearing before tightening surely they should have taken the hit?

 

Glad you got it sorted though :)

[Simon vr6 10]

They took the hit on the bearing and didnt charge for the labour but still had to pay for the stub axle!

What did the £54 cover? If they've admitted not checking the bearing before tightening surely they should have taken the hit?

 

Glad you got it sorted though :)