Stonejag 10 Posted January 18, 2013 My ABS has been playing up on and off ever since I got the car 18 months ago. I've never been able to talk to it on VAG-COM - assumed it was my cable, but when I had it serviced today they couldn't get it to talk either... When attempting to connect to it the ABS light flicks on and off a few times but then no data comes through. When I start off in the morning the light's always on; holding the brake pedal in when starting, I instantly feel the pump(?) clunk and the light comes on and stays on. After driving the 20-odd miles to work, if I stop the car, then turn the key one click then the light stays on. But, if I hold the pedal while doing this then the light comes on, flickers and goes out, complete with the delayed clunk that normally tells you all is well. If I do this, then the ABS works exactly as it should. Any idea? I've heard refusal to talk on OBD means the pump needs swapping as the ECU is internal..? My rear lines aren't in the greatest of nick so I'm wondering whether swapping to the Mk3/Passat version without the rear brake bias valve would be a smarter move in the long run. If my lines all need remaking anyway then it seems I might as well..? Thanks in advance, Stone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted January 18, 2013 Sounds like the pedal sensor maybe playing up of that affects it but the ECU is in the passenger footwell near the door - i'd check this for water damage or corroded pins first. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted January 18, 2013 Good shout, thanks. It really seems like it's 'just' the electronics disabling it since when it's deciding to work it works perfectly. I'll be really upset if it's wet from the heater core blowing! I'll have a look when the snow calms down for a bit... It definitely seems worse in the cold and wet so fingers crossed. Another question: Is there any substantial difference between 1H0 907 379E and 1H0 907 379D? Seems I should expect to find either under the trim, but I've been burned before when ordering parts one revision-letter apart that had totally different numbers of pins! Cheers Stone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted January 18, 2013 I think that part number is the difference between traction control or not so you do need to match. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leadfoot 0 Posted January 18, 2013 I had problems with my abs for a long time. Light staying on then going off after breaking or if I restarted car etc. it turned out it was the abs sensor on one of the wheels. Simple fix and not expensive when I got around to it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted January 18, 2013 I think that part number is the difference between traction control or not so you do need to match. Any other way to tell? It's a '95-built VR6, I thought they all got EDL after the magic chassis number? I'd go and look but not only is it dark, there's now so much snow I can't get into the garage :lol: Stone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon_vr6 1 Posted January 18, 2013 Late vrs came with 1H0 907 379E with EDL the one that ends in D doesnt have EDL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
