Jump to content
Yega

G60 Oil and Water temps

Recommended Posts

Just want to check if the temperatures I am getting in my G60 are normal or if I need to be worried. The oil temperature I think is fine, reaching about 90C after driving for a few miles and then steadily holding between 100-110C for the rest of the time, be it motorway or town driving. Never seem oil to be above 110C. My water however seems to be over 100C also, reaching 110C after thrashing it about a bit. Does this sound normal to you guys?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oil fine but water should sit half way at 90c - change your rad fan switch as it sounds like it's only working at the second stage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could be worth a shot to clean the rad also (garden hose from inside the engine-bay, to clear out the crud on the front of the rad)..

Also maybe a flush of the coolant-system?

Doing those two things gave me a huge drop in coolant temperature.. :-)

(Of course also check the rad switch as suggested)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you guys. I did think the water temp was a bit excessive. Will look more into it.

Edited by Yega

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to do a coolant flush this weekend. Is it worth using any of those products out there that are meant to clean up any old deposits in the cooling system? Or just drain the old stuff and fill up with new?

 

That also leads me to another question - pink or blue coolant?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I emptied the system and put the garden-hose into the reservoar, until only clean water came out.. I can't remember how the coolant "flows", but iirc I managed to get both the engine block and the rad flushed.. (Been a while since I did it..)

If you're flushing, I'd go for the "new stuff", G12 / pink.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry for being a complete noob but did you do all that on the system still being "opened", as in the water just poured out the bottom?

 

I was thinking pink also, seeing as I have some in the garage :p

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sorry for being a complete noob but did you do all that on the system still being "opened", as in the water just poured out the bottom?

 

I was thinking pink also, seeing as I have some in the garage :p

 

I dunno if this is "after the book", but my method was to just empty out the old coolant (bottom radiator hose), then put the garden hose into the expansion tank and keep the water flowing until clear water comes out in the other end..

Then, put the hose(s) back on, fill the car up with coolant+water, and you're good to go..

If you're considering replacing the radiator fan switch, I'd recommend doing that at the same time, seing as it sits quite low on the radiator itself. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Iv just done mine so ill pass on the i fo i was given as i was a bit stuck when it came to doing it

Do these in order and you should be fine

 

Jack the car up and remove the lower rad hose

 

Let it drain out in to a bucket

 

Set the hose pipe up and stick it in the expansion tank and run for ten minuits until its all out and only clean is flowing like said above

 

I then ran about ten litres of pure bottle water through the system as its de ironised water to flush out the hose pipe water and left that to drain for half an hour

 

Re fit the bottom rad hose

 

I then filled up my vr with 4.5 litres of g13 coolant , thats the new g12 from vw by the way , your g60 may be different levels of coolant and check as it might not be the same as a vr

 

Let it fill until you can fit any more in then once thats full put your heaters and blowers on full blast and start the car and let it tick over with the cap of up until about 70c and then check all the levels and top up with your bottle water if needed

 

Put your cap on before it gets to hot and by now you should have no air in the system and go for a quick drive and get it up to temp so that the thermostat opens

 

Once home again let it cool down and then check all you fluid and top up again if needed with your bottled water

 

I thinks thats about it mate im sure thats all correct , i did a rad change last weekend and thats the process i did and iv had no problems

 

Hope that helps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome guide, cheers the help guys. I will be doing this on Saturday if the weather holds up.

 

---------- Post added at 11:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:11 AM ----------

 

Just looking at the radiator fan switches, and there are 4 available from Euros. Each seems to have a different temperature range. Could someone steer me in the right direction which one I should get?

 

Part numbers I'm getting from Euros are:

 

223440170

223440110

223440120

223440290

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could actually be a knackered water pump, partially blocked radiator, temperature sender or a thermostat.

 

As you are seeing water temps that are high when driving around and not static there will be sufficient airflow over the radiator so the only thing that could be causing a high water temp is a false indication (which it won't be as the sensors tend to fail low not high due to the way they work) which only leaves the water pump, radiator or thermostat being knackered.

 

4 cylinder water pumps last around 100k-150k before requiring replacement and I would get a new thermostat and thermostat housing at the same time.

 

For cleaning/flushing the block you need to remove the thermostat housing to do it properly without pressure kit or a lot of coolant sits at the bottom of the block and has no exit path due to it being blocked by the thermostat.

 

Finally the refilling process, keep toping the reservoir up until it won't drain down, leave the cap off the reservoir, turn the heater controls up to full heat and full fan, start the car, top up the coolant level until it stabilises and then fast idle at 2000k rpm until you hit 75 deg of water temp on the gauge, then top up the reservoir to the max mark, refit the coolant cap and take it for a short drive. Let the engine cool down and then top up if required.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the information, I can see where you are coming from. I am going to take the car in to work tomorrow and monitor the water temperature and report back.

 

For now I am planning just to give the system a flush, replace the coolant and the thermoswitch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...