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timthetinyhorse

Vr6 head gasket.....here we go again

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So today I ran the car up to temp and could hear a fizzing from the engine, I had a look and could see a little steam and some residue around the head so I'm pretty confident my head gasket has given up, my question is this....how big a job is the head gasket and also if I decide not to do the work how much will I pay at a garage?

 

Cheers

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I did mine a few years ago as they are prone to failure at some point. I think it has something to do with using the older G10 antifreeze?? Hence why it was replaced with G11, G12....

 

Not that difficult to do and I definitely would not trust a garage to do it as I've come across too many incompetent so called "experienced mechanics"! They'll also change you a fortune to do it. Always worth doing yourself as you know you'll have done it right and it's good to learn.

 

I'll dig out the invoices later if I have time and let you know what parts you need to purchase to do the job properly and how much I paid for the parts, but it was a few years ago....

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Ok mate think I'm going to go for it, I read somewhere that I need to set the timing before I take the head off?? Is this true? Obviously I'm going to do the chains whilst I'm in there so is there any point?

 

Cheers

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Everything you need to know about how to do the timing chains is here so have a good read before you start the job. It is easier than it looks as long as you follow this guide. Taking the head off is not complicated just make sure you have the correct tool to remove the head bolt bolts and take them off in the correct sequence. Getting hold of a manual would be a good idea.

 

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_clutch_and_timing_chains_replacement_part_1.html

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I have the Bentley but haven't seen much in it about the head gasket, how do I get the engine to TDC if I'm not removing the transmission?

 

Do I lock the cams in place once I have the engine at TDC, then undo the camshaft sprockets and remove them, then undo the head bolts and lift the head off?

 

Are the head bolts removed in the order they are numbered or in reverse and also do they have to be removed in sequence but also a turn at a time etc??

 

Should the head lift straight off or will it be hard to lift off?

 

Sorry for all of the questions but I want to be funny informed before I do this job, I'm hugged I have the whole car back together to now have to take it all apart again......

 

Cheers

 

Rob

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Ok so today I think I got the engine at TDC, the notches on the end of the cam shafts line up with the smaller area to the top and I'm now waiting for the tool to arrive to lock the cams, the next question is what next??

 

I understand I have to remove the big tensioner bolt and then the timing chain cover, after this do I remove the sprockets from the cams?

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Bentley page 15-17 shows the bolt sequence, you do it in reverse to remove them. So 20 first (back right) then 19 (front right), then 18 (back left) etc. I assume it's probably OK to remove them all in one hit but I'd probably back them off until they're hand-tight first, then go around again to actually remove them just to be on the safe side.

 

Bit worrying I know this off the top of my head but I've been reading about the head/valvetrain recently, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it..!

 

Stone

 

---------- Post added at 8:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:30 PM ----------

 

You don't usually remove the sprockets from the cams, instead you remove the outermost intermediate shaft sprocket to get the top chain off.

 

But, if you're fitting new camshafts that come without the sprockets, you remove the top chain and then counterhold the existing camshafts using a 24mm open-ended spanner on the hex section near the sprocket end, which stops them rotating while you get the bolt out of the end holding the sprocket on. You have to do this without the camshaft locking tool in place (I assume because the VW one is plastic and would snap if you messed up!). All on Bentley page 15.28.

 

Stone

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Cheers bud, I presume I can get to the intermediate sprocket with just the top chain cover off?

 

The part I'm confused about is once the chains are off (I will have the locking tool in place) how do I know they are correct once back on? Of course the cams are locked and the block is at TDC but how do you know that the chains are at the right point on the sprockets? Is it just best to mark the chain on the sprockets at both intermediate and on the cams?

 

I'm sure the questions sound stupid but I don't want to get this wrong.....

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It's all in the quide DriverVR6 linked you to mate.

 

You can't get to the intermediate shaft sprocket without dropping the gearbox. I was going to suggest doing the chains if the top tensioner is knackered but we'll see what it's like when you show us pics :D

 

When you put the chain back on the sprockets, you have to ensure there is no slack in the length of chain on leading up to the front sprocket. When you press the tensioner in by hand, it will take up the slack between the two sprockets and the cams may move a little. They should be perfectly aligned. Spin the engine 4 times and recheck. If the cams aren't lined up properly, you've mistimed it.

 

 

Sorry for all of the questions but I want to be funny informed before I do this job, I'm hugged I have the whole car back together to now have to take it all apart again......

 

Clunky spell checker?

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iPhone spell check....

 

Well if the chains need to be done I have a problem as I doubt I have the skill or confidence to strip the transmission off, the head is proving a big enough challenge!

 

I have no chain noise so fingers crossed its ok, so from what you have said I need to have the section of chain at the front of the engine tight and then the tensioner is at the back to pull in the slack?

 

I presume if I'm not removing the intermediate sprocket that I need to remove one if the cam sprockets to get the chain off?

 

I must sound thick here but I'm regretting starting this job.

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