dj b 10 Posted May 16, 2013 Hi people I hope I can get this sorted. I have a problem with my vr6 rado. when its warm and im driving with just a bit of throttle it feels like its running out of petrol. kind of losing power but then if I put my foot down its fine. I am at the end of my tether with it. ive only had it a month and want to keep it but not sure now. I got a used maf off rams off here thinking it was that. but no if anything its worse. I have changed plugs new leads coil pack tried an isv and nothing has fixed it. could it be the lambda sensor? if I unplug it it makes no difference but was told by the aa its probably not that and more likely the maf. but its been swapped over so its not that. I only get home to use it late on evenings so its hard to get it booked in anywhere. as I say its fine when its cold and only happens when its warm. has anyone had this before? and did u sort it? Thanks in advance, im hopeful I can sort this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rams 0 Posted May 16, 2013 Really needs to be plugged into vagcom mate to see what codes come up. I'm happy to give you a refund on the part but it was definitely working when I removed it before going obd2. One problem which can occur is when you replace the leads that they don't clip in properly to the plugs and did you use the tool which reaches into where the plugs live? Most garages don't have them but I had this problem once before after someone replaced a set of leads, they just weren't quite home and should click when located. Fuel filter and fuel regulator would also be worth trying but I would get it plugged in before you spend more money. Will be something simple. Also the cooling temp sensor can cause it to run rich, lots of different actors and not really expensive to put right once you know what it is. Offer stands anyway if you do want to return it. Weird it would run worse but doubtful it is the MAF but you could always try a new one and ask them if you can return it if not required. Rams Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dj b 10 Posted May 16, 2013 Hi Rams na your ok mate. its my fault not yours so dont worry about it. ive got it booked in next week to a tuner to see what he can do. hopefully he can fix it. hes got a vagcom so fingers crossed. No i didnt use the tool as I didnt have one so I improvised with an earth cable and pulled them up with that (making sure i didnt put any stress on the lead only on the metal part. and i made a thing from copper tube to pysh them down with. ill double check they are all the way home but its been the same before I changed the plugs or leads. Ive always ran uno turbos and im great with them but always loved the rado's and this is my first one. ive been through the forum to find a solution but cant pinpoint it. ---------- Post added at 8:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:17 PM ---------- looking at the maf I think they are different, the one I had from you rams looks like a diff sensor. it looks a little shorter ill take a pic of the two and put it up. Hopefully it is the maf as they are different. ---------- Post added at 8:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:30 PM ---------- ok here the pics this is my old one and this is the one from you rams it definitely looks different. the sensor doesnt look as wide. ---------- Post added at 8:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:41 PM ---------- they are the same part numbers though :bonk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HF TURBO 10 Posted May 18, 2013 idle control valve? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
n3p 3 Posted May 18, 2013 Sounds like lambda to me Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dj b 10 Posted May 20, 2013 Thanks for the ideas. ive put a new icv on and it ran worse. I unplugged the lambda and it made no difference whatsoever which made me think the lambda was knackered but the AA came out to me and he seems to think it would be the maf not the lambda. :-/ anyway its booked in for thursday/friday so well see what the vagcom throws up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 20, 2013 MAF. Try a new one. VR6s are unbelievably picky with MAFs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dj b 10 Posted May 21, 2013 Thanks mr Bacon. ive ordered a new one just in case that should be here on thursday so ill update the thread then. hooefully itll sort it but im not convinced anymore. anyway fingers crossed ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rams 0 Posted May 23, 2013 Hoping this solves your problem buddy, let us know Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dj b 10 Posted May 23, 2013 Well the garahe has just rang me and they cant fit me in now until next blinking week. im going to borrow my friends maf for five minutes later and see if it is any better. this is turning into a proper nightmare. ill let you know what happens with the maf later. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dj b 10 Posted May 23, 2013 ive been to another garage today and they put it on the vagcom it came back with a idle stabiliser problem and an engine sensor. does anyone know what I need to get from these codes? any gelp greatly appreciated Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted May 23, 2013 (edited) I assume you cleared the codes first, ran the engine and then rescanned? They may be old error codes. The car will always present the engine speed sensor code when the engine is not running. Also, remove the throttle position sensor,clean out the throttle body, both sides of the butterfly and refit. Then do a Basic Settings procedure. Is the throttle damper ok? Its called a dashpot and there are quite a few threads about adjusting it. Edited May 23, 2013 by fla Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dj b 10 Posted May 23, 2013 yes thats right mate. the first time we ran the vagcom it brought loads up so we reset them and went for a little drive. then tested it again and these 2 are the only ones it came back with. I cleaned out my isv afterwards and it was running terrible although after a drive is got slightly better. I have put up a wanted post for a good icv so hopefully a good one will turn up and I can try that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted May 23, 2013 sorry, just amended my post above! Make sure you lube the isv properly after cleaning otherwise it will not run smoothly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dj b 10 Posted May 23, 2013 Thanks for the advice mate. ill try those things tomorrow. :thumbleft: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dj b 10 Posted May 28, 2013 (edited) Well I got another idle control valve today from Mattpc on here and it seems to have sorted it. it runs a little lumpy and it is still there a bit but its a whole lot better so thanks for all the help people. I think ill clean the throttle body soon so hopefully that will iron out idle completely. once again thanks very much im so glad I can use it again. Just gotta sort a few other issues aswell but it's all good. :-) Edited May 28, 2013 by dj b Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites