EDIT! HELP, car still not starting, new theory!

[borarob 0]

My lovely new corrado (9a) is not starting. Nothing happenings at all, not even trying to turn over.

 

Car is fitted with a cobra alarm system and immobiliser, which appears to be working ok. Immobilizer activated = nothing happens at all when turning key, no dash lights, no clicking or buzzing. De-activating immobiliser = turn key and dash lights come on as they should, turn to start and I can hear fuel pump prime and I can feel relay 18 clicking as you would expect, but no turn over at all.

 

I thought perhaps the battery had died, though headlights, wipers windows all working as expected, have since given the battery a charge to make sure and still the same (jump start also doesn't help, haven't tried bump start yet).

 

As all of the dash lights come on and relay 18 clicks, would you say this eliminates the ignition switch and the immobiliser from being the problem?

 

I noticed the following not connected when I bough the car, at the time I thought it was the knock sensor, i've since googled the part number and the web tells me its a crank position sensor

 

 

is that what it is? if so where should it be connected to and would it floating around like that mean that the car wouldn't start. It has been like that since I've had the car (3 weeks but only been using it in the last week).

 

what else could it be? starter motor I guess?

 

thanks peeps

Edited August 12, 2013 by borarob

[easypops 8]

Ignition switch, mine failed last week, there is a bypass you can try, which would rule it in or out.

I'll go get the link

 

---------- Post added at 8:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 8:51 AM ----------

 

Oh and yes, that circular thing should be round one I'd your ht leads. Which one I'm not sure?

 

---------- Post added at 8:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 8:52 AM ----------

 

Oh and yes, that circular thing should be round one I'd your ht leads. Which one I'm not sure?

 

---------- Post added at 8:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 8:53 AM ----------

 

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=82139&highlight=Ruling+ignition+switch

This is my recent thread, there is a link in it which will hopefully help

[phill 10]

Is it making any noise when ur turn the ignition to start it.could be solanoid on starter motor might be worth checking wires not faulty to that or could be stuck!

[Jim 1]

Going to be ignition switch - hot weather seems to be a real killer for them. Or a flat battery (there can be enough juice to drive lights, heaters, etc but not enough to turn the car over).

 

Changing the switch is a pain but you can test it fairly quickly when you buy the replacement by removing the under steering column cowling and just disconnecting the ignition switch from the back of the old one and plugging into the new one and activating it (has a little slot in so just put a key or flat headed screw driver in).

[borarob 0]

@phill - no noise coming from starter / engine, just clicking.

 

 

i've had the battery charging again so i don't think its the battery, but i'll try and get a multimeter on it later to test voltage across it. I do have another ignition switch so i'll try that

 

---------- Post added at 10:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 9:19 AM ----------

 

if it is ignition switch would relay 18 still be activating?

 

---------- Post added at 11:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:05 AM ----------

 

[/color]Oh and yes, that circular thing should be round one I'd your ht leads. Which one I'm not sure?

 

really - how would you route an HT lead through that hole? so it doesn't bolt to the block anywhere?

[Jim 1]

really - how would you route an HT lead through that hole? so it doesn't bolt to the block anywhere?

 

Genuine VAG leads have unscrewable ends. It's supposed to go on the HT lead for cylinder #4 (if I remember correctly) and you should be able to unscrew the plug at the distributor cap end and simply slot the sensor over the lead. The problem is that virtually all pattern parts are not designed with the 2.0 16v in mind so you can't attach this sensor on.

 

I went through this on my old 2.0 16v. Found a supplier on eBay who sold ignition leads, advertised as suitable for the 1.8 16v and 2.0 16v and of course it wouldn't go on as the plug end was not removable. They did a 'premium' set at twice the price where it was removable however. But even then the leads were crimped in such a way that the electrode in the plug was misshapen enough that I STILL couldn't slip the loop over the lead. Ended up having reshape the electrode / plug bit before it would go on.

 

In short - it's a ballache. Buy a genuine set of leads from VW or at the very least by the single lead for that cylinder!

[borarob 0]

result! car now starting. It was the ignition switch. I had another ignition barrel with switch to try, went to take out the multi plug from current switch and the entire ignition switch pulled out, so likely it has previously broken and the person fitting couldnt be bothered with redoing the securing screw. I thought that might have the issued so I used a screw driver in the ignition switch but still no joy. Plugged into the second barrel and switch I had, turned the key and off we went! Really didn't make sense to me that it could be this as I could here the relay clicking at each position.

 

The second barrel i have is due to replacing all the locks on the car, got that to fit and the original steering wheel so I think I'll get a fresh switch in there when i do that job. In the meantime I'll prob just slide the working switch into the existing barrel and use some zip ties as a temp bodge.

 

back to the crank sensor - what problems might i get due to it not being connected?

[Jim 1]

Zip ties work perfectly well. I know a fair few owners who've refitted the ignition switch this way.

[easypops 8]

I zip tied mine too, just couldn't get that wee screw back in lol

On a plus note, starting is much better, feels like more power is now getting to the starter

[borarob 0]

I zip tied mine too, just couldn't get that wee screw back in lol

On a plus note, starting is much better, feels like more power is now getting to the starter

 

is it obvious where to use the zip ties to get the best grip? any advice?

[easypops 8]

I put 2 on it, one around the whole lot, including the plug, so it keeps it in place, then one across that to keep it in place, sort of a + shape........i may try the screw again at some point.........then again, probably not :lol:

[borarob 0]

I put 2 on it, one around the whole lot, including the plug, so it keeps it in place, then one across that to keep it in place, sort of a + shape........i may try the screw again at some point.........then again, probably not :lol:

 

yeah i did two, both round the whole thing but one each side of the loom, and so far so good, car started fine this morning! Thanks everyone for their input!

[borarob 0]

Ok, after changing ignition switch problems cured for a week. Had more issues relating to a dead battery, replaced that, all fine until last week and this evening yet again turn key and nothing. Well dash lights on and I can hear relay clicks and fuel pump, but no turning over at all.

 

Both times I solved it by disconnecting battery for 10 mins, car then started fine.

 

Does this sound like the immobiliser is screwed (cobra), or something else? Is it to do with that sensor not being around the HT lead?

 

Please help its beginning to p me off a treat. Sold a perfectly reliable golf to get another c, while I love driving it I at least need to know it will start reliably!

[borarob 0]

nothing else that would be cured by disconnecting battery for a bit?

[easypops 8]

My old valver only let me down once......coil died. Not saying that's your issue, but possibly worth checking? Not that I know how to check it. Anyone close enough to swap for a check?

[borarob 0]

My old valver only let me down once......coil died. Not saying that's your issue, but possibly worth checking? Not that I know how to check it. Anyone close enough to swap for a check?

 

but if that was the problem surely i'd never be able to get it going? as i say disconnecting battery for 10 mins or so seems to cure it and car starts...

 

just called an auto electrician about removing the cobra immob and he said it would be £3-500 !! sod that

[easypops 8]

That's a shocking price, I got my old alarm/imob removed, a Toad AI606 supplied and fitted all for £250.....a couple of years ago but not that long ago. Fairly sure your imob will be only tied into ignition and fuel electrics. You'd have possibly seen them while doing your ignition switch? Find the box and follow the wires, you'll soon see where they are spliced in, take lots of pics, then remove......if it doesn't help, you can put it back the way it was.....and it's free :)

[borarob 0]

i had someone recommended to me, they are coming to where I work to get rid of it on Monday morning, £55 - i can cope with that. If that seems to wort it out then I'll get them back to actually fit me an alarm. He said it would only save me £30 to get it all done at the same time so thought it was worth that to take an immobiliser out of the equation to simplify any further fault finding - hopefully wont be needed!

 

going to be pessimistic and assume this wont work so I won't be disappointed! If anyone has any further thoughts, please let me know!

[borarob 0]

cobra immob removed this morning, fingers crossed this solves it and I can get a new one fitted asap. The guy doing it said the installation was ropey at best, some wires not connected others twisted together and held with a bit of tape.

[borarob 0]

Ah still not sorted with immob removed.

 

Have found now that if it doesn't start if I do what I now call the Corrado tango, putting car in 1st and rocking her back and forth a bit she will start! To me this means the starter has had it. However someone has suggested it could be a timing issue? Would incorrect timing stop the starter engaging properly and could it also be linked to my high idle problem?

[seanl82 23]

I'd say your starter motor has had it as you've said, as even if your timing was out it would still turn over. The high idle is probably unrelated and a desperate issue.

[borarob 0]

Mechanic brother in law says that if the timing was far enough out to affect starting the car would be undriveable.