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VW_chris

Corrado VR6 cutting out then not starting, PROBLEM FIXED, SEE PG. 4.

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i have spent 5 days trying to fix my vr6 after it would cut out whilst driving and then refuse to start, i currently use it as my daily, im starting a new job on monday so need it fixed before then, i am honestly at my wits end as to what could be causing this problem, so im being serious here, if someone posts a solution to this problem and it works, i will paypal you £10 for helping me.

 

problem is, no spark. engine cranks over no bother and is getting fuel, however there is no spark for whatever reason, with time cutting close for work, i need it fixed for work so i can buy myself a mk3 daily and put her away for winter.

 

so far i have replaced and checked;

 

- Distributor unit with hall sensor of a member on here (purple tom) (havnt tested hall sensor as of yet)

- checked relays for ecu and 67 (both operate fine)

- Replaced ht lead from coil to dizzy cap with a spare (works fine)

- replaced dizzy cap, new unit. (have tried both old and new unit, no difference)

- checked ignition switch, recently replaced it, works fine. (tried hot wiring the car to double check, no difference)

- have got a 12v live to the coil with ignition on.

- have appx. 11/2v on ht from coil to dizzy with ignition on. (havnt tested for voltage whilst cranking)

- engine is getting fuel as you can smell it after turning it over (so not crank sensor)

- engine has a good ground so i know it should in theory be making a circuit with the plugs.

- Ht leads are in good nic, if it started this morning it wouldnt have started at all if they were knackered.

- i have checked all of the fuses in the car, all 100%

- my alarm is not 100% but should not be causing an immob problem as i have wired it off. (so the alarm/immob does not operate)

 

ive got a bently manual which i have been working through to try and find the problem, i just would like to know if anyone has had a similar problem to this and what the cure was so i can try it.

 

any help would be greatly appriciated, chris :bonk: .

Edited by VW_chris

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Ok, Have you any breakdown cover?? - The AA are particuarly good and fault finding these sorts of issues.. whereabouts are you in the country?

 

What year is the car? Have you VAGCOM'd it?

Dizzy model so no factory immobiliser I guess.

Compression - You think it's ok? No loud noises when it stopped?

Fuel filter - has this been changed recently?

Have you actually tried a new 109 ECU relay?

Ignition switch - was the new one Genuine VW?

Crank sensor - Why do you think it's not this? The crank sensor activates the fuel pump relay but this is as the engine starts - it's not getting this far!

Alarm - sure there are no hidden fuses anywhere?

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Ok, Have you any breakdown cover?? - The AA are particuarly good and fault finding these sorts of issues.. whereabouts are you in the country?

 

What year is the car? Have you VAGCOM'd it?

Dizzy model so no factory immobiliser I guess.

Compression - You think it's ok? No loud noises when it stopped?

Fuel filter - has this been changed recently?

Have you actually tried a new 109 ECU relay?

Ignition switch - was the new one Genuine VW?

Crank sensor - Why do you think it's not this? The crank sensor activates the fuel pump relay but this is as the engine starts - it's not getting this far!

Alarm - sure there are no hidden fuses anywhere?

 

- yeah ive got breakdown cover with the RAC, im in blyth, not far from newcastle.

- its a k-reg, havnt had it vag-commed as i dont know anyone who could scan it, i have a lead which could read it but honestly havnt a clue what software id need for it with it being obd1. plus i cant connect the lead to my laptop.

-its a dizzy model with a factory alarm and immob.

-it still goes like a train, no problem with compression as far as i know, i havnt compression tested it as it runs champion when it does run, it just isnt sparking for whatever reason.

-fuel filter was changed last december, so it should still be good, ive only ran decent fuel through it.

-havnt tried a new 109 ecu relay, i have tested it though and works fine.

-ignition switch was not a gen vw part, however it still works spot on, i hot wired the car to check.

-crank sensor wise, from what ive read on other threads cuts both fuel and spark, im still getting fuel through so thats how i ruled that out.

-ive got the alarm completly disabled, it started acting up not long ago not letting it start, i have checked my wiring and re-done it just to make sure, the immob is not causing the problem.

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So maybe worth replacing the rotor arm and also checking the plugs are not covered in oil.

 

Pull a lead and see if it arc's against the manifold while cranking the engine - if no spark then i'd suspect the crank sensor.

 

VAGCOM probably not useful here anyway as it will always throw a fault with the crank sensor with the engine not running.

 

Coil - have you checked the winding resistance?? I think the Bentley has some figures to compare

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So maybe worth replacing the rotor arm and also checking the plugs are not covered in oil.

 

Pull a lead and see if it arc's against the manifold while cranking the engine - if no spark then i'd suspect the crank sensor.

 

VAGCOM probably not useful here anyway as it will always throw a fault with the crank sensor with the engine not running.

 

Coil - have you checked the winding resistance?? I think the Bentley has some figures to compare

 

 

at the minute im staring down at the crankshaft sensor with suspicious eyes. im going to test that for resistance tomorrow.

just bought a new rotor arm for it this morning, as i was unable to re-use the one i originally had on the car.

i pulled the plugs the other day and everything was fine with them

havnt checked the coil for resistance as of yet, another job for tommorow if the crank sensor doesnt come back as faulty.

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It seems to be that time of the year doesn't it ! Mines a k reg and I've had problems recently , you seemed to have covered everything though . If it is the crank sensor I have one in working order should you need one .

Rob

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first, check every fuse

I've got the coilpack version but looking at the wiring diagram check continuity between the ECU (T68/8) and ignition coil output power module (T3d/2)

wiggle the wires on the big 42 pin round plug, disconnect and re connect

shame you're not nearer

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It seems to be that time of the year doesn't it ! Mines a k reg and I've had problems recently , you seemed to have covered everything though . If it is the crank sensor I have one in working order should you need one .

Rob

 

ill be checking the resistance on mine tommorow, if comes back as faulty ill no doubt have it off you, how much you looking for it?

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tested the crank sensor, am i right in thinking you count the pins 1-2-3 looking at it with the 2 ridges on the top i.e. like this

[ATTACH=CONFIG]76008[/ATTACH]

 

if this is the case i am getting 506 ohms resistance across pins 2 and 3

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Plugs numbered I think and I'm sure I can see them in the pic??

 

Do you know what the resistance should be?

 

I know they are magnetic sensors so can loose resolution over time...

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Im fresh out of ideas now dude . I have just read the thread again , i think you have everything you need for a spark . The only thing i can suggest is starting at the begining again . Check the battery , then onto the coil . If you have replaced the coil lead and the dizzy that should be fine .No damage to any leads ? , although that would only strike off the spark to its corresponding plug i suppose .Wish i could be more help .

Rob

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Im fresh out of ideas now dude . I have just read the thread again , i think you have everything you need for a spark . The only thing i can suggest is starting at the begining again . Check the battery , then onto the coil . If you have replaced the coil lead and the dizzy that should be fine .No damage to any leads ? , although that would only strike off the spark to its corresponding plug i suppose .Wish i could be more help .

Rob

 

yeah, thats what ive been doing since i last posted on here, ive just spent about 2 hours testing my coil against bently manual specs which are;

 

(primary system)- across terminals 1 and 15 = 0.5 to 0.7 ohms of resistance (i have 1.1 ohms of resistance)

 

(secondary system)- then from the coils HT - DIZZY connection to terminal 15 = between 3000 and 4000 ohms of resistance (i have 7300 ohms of resistance)

 

would this kill a spark, i tested my coil pack from ignition and got 12v supply from it, cranking i got 9v supply from it to the dizzy.

i have followed this down and through my ht leads to where the spark plug is, so am i right in thinking the coil pack is kaput? i would have thought it would have taken a lot more than 9v to bridge a spark plug gap :scratch:

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change ecu relay 109. A fresh one will rule it out at least. I wouldn't rely on a relay 'test'.

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I dont know much about using multi meters ,sorry mate . But it does sound like a dodgy coil , again i cant be sure . Have you got home start on your aa policy ?. They were brilliant with me , they will check it all and would tell you if the coil was not working . I know ive said it before ,but the great Chris RW1 would have solved this for you .

Rob

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change ecu relay 109. A fresh one will rule it out at least. I wouldn't rely on a relay 'test'.

 

thing is though, i wouldnt have thought id see any voltage through the wires to the coil if the relay was broken. im getting a constant 9v to the coil whilst cranking (i know this is low but thats because it been sat cranking for about 5 days without re-charging)

 

so that pretty much rules out the possibility of the immobiliser, ignition switch, relays, fuses ect ect, as fine and working, because if they wernt, i wouldnt see any voltage at the wiring loom to the coil.

 

so going of that, i think ive pretty much come to the conclusion the secondary stage of my coil is broken.

 

with regards to the crank shaft sensor, the pin numbers are reversed 3-2-1. , so when i tested the crankshaft sensor, it was infact fine.

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For the cost of the 109 relay......................on my forth one now. That is after 19 years I admit! Fuel pump one as well

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If you're sure the ignition switch is ok then try another 109 relay if you can out of another car - MK4 TDI's use the same

 

I think then you should make look at trying another ECU

 

PS - you sure Dizzy timing / firing order etc are correct?

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did you test the voltage to the coil from both terminals or from + terminal to earth, as I think it's the negative which gets switched,

Have you checked continuity between all the components

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