G60 set up issues, long read but please stick with me.

[gti gadge 0]

Morning guys, need help with the set-up on the newest G on the drive.

 

Story is that I px'd it blind (ok so not the brightest start!) and although it ran ok it was rich as hell and tick over was up and down and ended up at 1200 after cleaning and rewiring the ISV. I'm half way through trying (and a I use the word lightly)to get it running right.

 

Spec is recent rebuilt Stage 4/5 charger, 68 pulley, red tops and an alleged chip to suit (see later on), decat and 2.5 zorst.

 

Stuff done so far. ISV cleaned and rewired. co-pot cleaned and resecured (on some oddball custom ball bags thing pipe effort) and was bench set at 500 ohms. Bleed screw was right out so had initially set up the idle early on to get it solid but still mega rich running. Distributor taken out and cleaned so could be moved and set at 6% BTDC. Other bits like fuel pipes replaced and 1m ecu pipe and other vac pipes renewed.

 

Right, the real problems start ha..ha.. Gone to set it up and get the co% set and woah, 8% on idle. After a lot of faffing its down to like 1% with the copot taken right back and tickover 900rpm (go lower and the mixture reading goes back up. HELP!

 

Also found a broken signal wire on the Lambda when doing the test after setting the mixture.

 

I just need thoughts and ideas on where I can go from here tbh. My own thoughts are that the chip is at fault and its maybe not set-up for the red-tops so extra fuel but its supposed to have an SNS chip in it. (going to look later when I get back home to see just what chip is in there, will I be able to tell just from looking?)

 

 

Ideally I want to get the fueling under control and get the copot setting back down and idle set a touch lower (set at 900 but hunting slightly right now) and mixture should be 0.7% ?

 

Thanks guys

[Matt@OCD 0]

Mixture should be 0.5% + or - 0.4%, so anything between 0-1% you'll be fine, idle wants to be a little lower, 850rpm approx but I find some like to idle a little higher so I wouldn't stress at 900rpm.

 

I think you may need to look at a new lambda probe as a possible cause to rich running too.

 

As for the chip, you can tell as it should have SNS marker penned on the top of it, it might be faded but it'll be there!

[gti gadge 0]

Mixture should be 0.5% + or - 0.4%, so anything between 0-1% you'll be fine, idle wants to be a little lower, 850rpm approx but I find some like to idle a little higher so I wouldn't stress at 900rpm.

 

I think you may need to look at a new lambda probe as a possible cause to rich running too.

 

As for the chip, you can tell as it should have SNS marker penned on the top of it, it might be faded but it'll be there!

 

Thanks for the reply Matt. Its a rado engine in there and the notes I have left from my old rado are that it was 0.7ish but either way I cannot get it down to that.

 

Lambda. My thoughts on this were as follows. You set the mixture with the blue temp off, reconnect and clear ecu then recheck mixture. When I first did this I got it to 1% then did the above and rechecked and the mixture rose steady to 3.4%. I went through the lambda wiring and found the signal wire basically perished. Stripped and redid it and now it keeps the mixture setting as set in the first instance so I have taken this as now being correct and fixed.

 

Need to shoot home and check out chip..............right now..argh. My main thoughts were could it be chip fault or not suited to the injectors perhaps keeping the reds open longer than needed? Also why would the mixture go back up when the idle screw is screwed in past a certain point?

[Matt@OCD 0]

No worries, CO is as I said for all G60's, this is from VW workshop manuals :)

 

You need to disconnect the breather pipe from the rocker cover and let the boost return pipe open to atmosphere, the breather effects CO levels.

 

Idle screw effects it as your either letting more or less air in without changing fuelling, more air = lean, less air = rich :)

 

I'll have a look tomorrow as once rocker breather is re-connected if it rises a certain amount it means lambda is faulty

[gti gadge 0]

No worries, CO is as I said for all G60's, this is from VW workshop manuals :)

 

You need to disconnect the breather pipe from the rocker cover and let the boost return pipe open to atmosphere, the breather effects CO levels.

 

Idle screw effects it as your either letting more or less air in without changing fuelling, more air = lean, less air = rich :)

 

I'll have a look tomorrow as once rocker breather is re-connected if it rises a certain amount it means lambda is faulty

 

Cheers Matt. Car has no boost return (got wanted ad up and you were going to look in your garage for one ha..) ISV has mini filter on and breather goes straight back into charger. Did with filter off and also breather disconnected but didn't seem to make a fat lot of difference tbh. Let me know what you find re:lambda please mate, cheers

[Matt@OCD 0]

Ah yes!!! I've got it sat next to my desk but couldn't remember who had PM'd me about it!!! :D Knew I'd find out one way or the other! Where did I PM you about it? The pipe is fine :)

 

Right complete guide is -

No engine breathing back into intake,

Start engine and idle for 1 min,

Remove blue coolant temp sensor plug and give 3 bursts of throttle over 3000rpm then allow to idle,

Now adjust idle and CO content,

Idle = 800rpm + or - 50rpm,

CO = 0.5% + or - 0.4%,

Re-attach temp sensor plug and give 3 bursts of throttle over 3000rpm.

 

Now if CO content deviates from above value the Lambda probe or control is at fault.

 

To test Lambda probe -

Idle engine once up to temp,

Note CO value,

Remove FPR vac pipe from inlet and block inlet,

CO should increase then drop back to previous value,

If it doesn't then disconnect Lambda probe plug,

Connect a wire into the engine loom side plug signal wire (pin4) and alternately connect this to earth then positive,

The CO content must increase/decrease.

 

If it changes then Lambda probe is at fault.

If it doesn't change then check the wiring to ECU, if this is ok then fault lies in the ECU.

[G60 CS 0]

fix the lambda wiring, fit std chip , fit std injectors and then try and time it up and check mixture etc you're best getting it setup with the std parts first then upgrading from a known good base

[gti gadge 0]

Ah yes!!! I've got it sat next to my desk but couldn't remember who had PM'd me about it!!! :D Knew I'd find out one way or the other! Where did I PM you about it? The pipe is fine :)

 

Right complete guide is -

No engine breathing back into intake,

Start engine and idle for 1 min,

Remove blue coolant temp sensor plug and give 3 bursts of throttle over 3000rpm then allow to idle,

Now adjust idle and CO content,

Idle = 800rpm + or - 50rpm,

CO = 0.5% + or - 0.4%,

Re-attach temp sensor plug and give 3 bursts of throttle over 3000rpm.

 

Now if CO content deviates from above value the Lambda probe or control is at fault.

 

To test Lambda probe -

Idle engine once up to temp,

Note CO value,

Remove FPR vac pipe from inlet and block inlet,

CO should increase then drop back to previous value,

If it doesn't then disconnect Lambda probe plug,

Connect a wire into the engine loom side plug signal wire (pin4) and alternately connect this to earth then positive,

The CO content must increase/decrease.

 

If it changes then Lambda probe is at fault.

If it doesn't change then check the wiring to ECU, if this is ok then fault lies in the ECU.

 

 

Matt, thanks for that buddy. This was the way I'd found that the Lambda had an issue as the mixture went mental after setting and resetting. Fixed the broken signal wire and now stays where it is so presume all is good but will check again. PM me on here with a price posted for that return pipe please Matt, cheers.

 

fix the lambda wiring, fit std chip , fit std injectors and then try and time it up and check mixture etc you're best getting it setup with the std parts first then upgrading from a known good base

 

Lambda wiring fixed but I have no std parts unfortunately. Timing is set at 6 BTDC after taking out and cleaning the seat area up so it would turn! Mixture is close(ish) but co-pot is screwed way back out to nearly 1300ohms. Never had this issue before hence why I thought bad chip match. Had a look today and it seems to be what has been in it for a few years with the previous two owners. Its just a slow PAINFUL process ha..ha..