stereoflaver 0 Posted December 24, 2013 I did a search on this and couldn't find much info or pics. Even on Google. So to get the bottom half of the air box out you have to get the top half out the way. Unclip the two electrical connectors from the metering head. Undo the the jubilee clip at the throttle body and remove the intake pipe. Unclip the four air box clips to remove the air filter. Remove the screw that holds the little headlight cover. Now lift the metering head up just enough to get the bottom half out, it just sits on four little pegs with rubber feet. Now take it in the kitchen when she's at work to get out the cold. Firstly I got rid of the part that would sit in the cut out for the head light. The hole in this is smaller than a golf ball for the air to get into the air box. To remove this it takes a good shove towards where the headlight would be. After swearing at it for hurting your hand, move onto the vacuum flap, three overly tight screws, done. Now the pipe that the flap covers for cold starts. Two little clips push in then twist the pipe to remove. Now the fun part, get the hacksaw and start cutting along the reinforcement as much as you can in all directions. Three cuts then remove the blade, wrap kitchen roll round the blade and parcel tape your new handle into place. Cut the last of all cuts this way until the part drops out. Put the bottom back in and replace the metering head with new/clean filter, connect the intake pipe and two connectors, start the engine and rev the poop out of it. Sounds amazing and the throttle response is way better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Micky fletch 10 Posted January 5, 2014 Now you've done this mod would you recommend this to others.how's the fuel looking.i have a 2.0 16v would it work for me and where did you hear about this mod Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stereoflaver 0 Posted January 5, 2014 Drilling the air box has been around for years to get more air into the intake. You also get the induction noise as well which I like. As for fuel consumption, the engine isn't trying to get all it's air through a golf ball sized hole so should be better but since I like the noise it's making I'm putting my foot down a bit more then I usually would. I'm using an eBay special "K&N" panel filter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2sheds 10 Posted January 9, 2014 First mod I did after buying my £26 K&N panel(BARGAIN!!), sounds great and improves pick up without killing the economy (that comes later) :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aide 0 Posted January 9, 2014 Now you've done this mod would you recommend this to others. I did this years ago to a valver but I wouldn't again - but i don't blame ones trying it out! It sounds better because you're letting induction pulses partially escape rather than reflecting them back into the system where they aide cylinder charging, this equals less efficient cylinder charging and lower power. At idle/ in traffic ambient intake temps rise equals less dense air and less power. At speed there's a lot of turbulent air in the engine bay, by chopping the airbox you're allowing that air pressure/ vacuum to influence the induction system, further the stock system uses a funnel type arrangement to gather air from behind the headlight to generate a positive static charge in the induction system when moving, that static pressure cannot be generated if there's hole behind the intake = loss of power. Like I said, i've done it and it sounds nice and there's probably a placebo power effect, but I would never do it again :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ross k 10 Posted January 9, 2014 i just pulled out the insert part in the front of the airbox means you get a slightly bigger hole and a bit more induction noise sounds nice and reversible Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Micky fletch 10 Posted January 10, 2014 I did this years ago to a valver but I wouldn't again - but i don't blame ones trying it out! It sounds better because you're letting induction pulses partially escape rather than reflecting them back into the system where they aide cylinder charging, this equals less efficient cylinder charging and lower power. At idle/ in traffic ambient intake temps rise equals less dense air and less power. At speed there's a lot of turbulent air in the engine bay, by chopping the airbox you're allowing that air pressure/ vacuum to influence the induction system, further the stock system uses a funnel type arrangement to gather air from behind the headlight to generate a positive static charge in the induction system when moving, that static pressure cannot be generated if there's hole behind the intake = loss of power. Like I said, i've done it and it sounds nice and there's probably a placebo power effect, but I would never do it again :) Vw must of done some research and development on the airflow etc to produce the system to warrant its production.might just try Ross k idea as he says it reversible and as I have my lights out its worth a try Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sexybourbon 0 Posted January 10, 2014 Yep no point drilling the box really someone had already done it on my old valver , taking out the snorkel part at the front is the best option I have seen one bloke who cut a neat hole engine side of the box and run a cold air feed to it but still not sure as to weather that would do anything useful Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites