lloyd88 10 Posted April 29, 2014 Hi guys, got a few questions please. 1st: i noticed that the woodruff key is snapped on the camshaft pulley, do you think i should replace the pulley? or is it friction that keeps it there 2nd: what socket is used to get the crank bolt off? 3rd: the research ive seen tells me the flywheel mark should be an 0 at tdc but what im seeing is just a |(line) is this correct? thank you! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted April 29, 2014 1. yep, replace the pulley 2. you don't need to remove the crank bolt to do the timing belt on a 16v although the outer damped aux pulley may appear to be part of the crank pulley it's not, it just seizes a bit in place 3. line up the crank pulley with the timing cover arrow, this is TDC, and the crank mark should be aligned, there is a TDC mark and a 6 degrees advance mark on the flywheel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lloyd88 10 Posted April 29, 2014 thanks fro the reply. i know i dont need to take the crank pulley off but i want to inspect it and replace it with a new one and bolt (ill explain later) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wullie 1 Posted April 29, 2014 Had a similar thing happen. Whole saga here, mainly post 14 which has part numbers and prices at the time. http://direct.the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=55045&page=2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lloyd88 10 Posted April 29, 2014 dont think mine has slipped but a garage did the most aweful thing a few years back to my rado and im sick of the pinking etc so im starting from scratch. anyway i have found the 0 lol it looks more like this though so sweet! and its at tdc [ATTACH=CONFIG]78448[/ATTACH] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lloyd88 10 Posted April 29, 2014 got the pulley off, using the starter... luckily the crank slot is in great condition but will need new pulley as slot is bad p.s thanks for the numbers i found your post through google already :) [ATTACH=CONFIG]78449[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78450[/ATTACH] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lloyd88 10 Posted April 29, 2014 anyone have a spare camshaft gear? im dreading asking vw Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lloyd88 10 Posted April 29, 2014 ordered new crank pulley, bolt and cam pulley not bad price tbh, crank pulley £15 by febi, bolt £5 and cam pulley £30 by vw Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lloyd88 10 Posted April 29, 2014 anyone know the correct torque for the bolt? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted April 30, 2014 taken from Haynes manual for KR/9a Passat - camshaft sprocket bolt 65Nm crank pulley bolt, 2 types: hexagon head 180Nm 12pt stretch bolt 90Nm, turn 180deg, 65Nm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lloyd88 10 Posted April 30, 2014 12pt, thank you. cleaned up some of my wiring whilst i wait for my new bits, couple of days... heres a quick pic of my rado that i will be selling soon :( [ATTACH=CONFIG]78458[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78459[/ATTACH] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lloyd88 10 Posted April 30, 2014 (edited) whats with the added 65nm on the crank bolt? or am i just being stupid Edited April 30, 2014 by lloyd88 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted April 30, 2014 (edited) could be a Haynes error/misprint as for comparison the G60 Bentley manual states 80Nm (six point) or 90Nm plus 180 degrees for the twelve point. No, apologies, I misread the torque settings table! Haynes is definitely 90Nm + 180 degrees, same as G60 settings from Bentley camshaft is 65Nm (Haynes), 80Nm on the 8v G60 (Bentley), a bit odd as the 8v sprocket is narrower ??? there is a big mismatch in the non-stretch 6 point crank pulley bolt values though 180Nm(133lbft) Haynes, and only 80Nm(59ftlb) in Bentley, not sure what is going on there, I know most crank pulley bolts are about the tightest bolts on any car though, most need a special bracing tool and breaker bar to remove, or a mega-torquey electric hammer gun! Edited April 30, 2014 by davidwort Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lloyd88 10 Posted May 2, 2014 thanks, just having a hard time keeping it all lined up while tensioning the belt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted May 2, 2014 I've put a spanner on the cam pulley before to turn it against the pressure from the valve gear to line it up, then turn it over once and check all the marks, see if if needs to be moved a tooth either way Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lloyd88 10 Posted May 3, 2014 NEED HELP QUICKLY PLEASE ok so with all other marks perfect, im having this problem again where the cam dots wont line up perfect flywheel/crank marks all correct and cam/cover all correct:scratch: [ATTACH=CONFIG]78479[/ATTACH] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lloyd88 10 Posted May 3, 2014 (edited) lined up cams and im ignoring the cam cover mark, out by a little but now cant get the crank to line up because everytime i tension the belt it moves, even moving it back a tooth doesnt work......... had enough today. maybe im applying to much tension? dont think so due to me being able to turn it 90 with little effort Edited May 3, 2014 by lloyd88 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites