2.0 16v suddenly wont start

[Thomas Boyce 10]

hi in the middle of an absolute nightmare

 

car was driving beautifully then got in the car a couple of weeks ago after a couple of days without driving (2.0 16v) and she refused to start, fired for a second then wouldnt even fire at all.

 

have changed a few parts and sensors and it will fire now but almost imediately cuts out.

 

i originally suspected the coil pack so replaced that with no difference whatsoever still no fire

 

i then went through everything i could think of to get the beast going again

 

so all together ive changed:-

 

new ignition switch

 

new in tank lifter fuel pump

 

new fuel filter

 

new fuel pipe between the undercar pump and accumulator (cracked it changing the fuel filter)

 

new undercar fuel pump

 

new coolant temperature sensor

 

and the already mention coil pack for a second hand one

 

 

the car does fire for 5 sometimes 10 seconds now but dips out

giving it a little gas on the accelerator doesnt make any difference

 

anyone have any ideas or had the same problem before i waste any more money?

was thinking maybe the maf but it looks fine on inspection and its definately getting fuel now, loads of pressure at the injectors

 

any help would be appreciated, im quite new to posting as i usually just read around till i find my answer but this time im completely stuck, cant even get the car to the garage for an opinion

 

HELP!

[Thomas Boyce 10]

forgot to mention also changed the fuel pump relay

[Riley 0]

Do you have two sensors with spade terminals on the side of the cylinder head? It's a long time since I played with a valver engine, but if I remember rightly one of them is for the ECU, and one for the ISV. You can swap the spade terminals around on them and then attempt starting to see if this makes a difference.

 

They won't normally start if the ECU sensor is knackered/wiring to it is damaged. Have had that happen in the past.

 

Neil.

[Thomas Boyce 10]

ill have a look later and have a go but as far as i remember there is only one with a spade head and a spare wire thats been zip tied at some point, unless im thinking of my old kr

[add1 10]

Do you have a immobiliser fitted?

[Thomas Boyce 10]

yeah a viper one, thought the engine wouldnt even turn over if it was that though?

[dubweiser 0]

Try the Lambda sensor

[seanl82 23]

Starting for a couple of seconds then cutting out is usually a sign of failure of the factory immobiliser, although 10 seconds is a bit long. Usually it's only two or three second's. Have a look through the vagcom thread to see if there's anyone local to you willing to check codes for a few beer tokens.

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

hi, what year is the motor?

 

in your post are you referring to the ignition switch or barrel?

 

on late models the key has a chip in it which is read by a collar around the ignition which feeds back to the immobiliser, if the chip doesnt match the collar then it will cause the car to start ok but then the engine will cut out within a short time.

 

i had the above issue when i changed by ignition barrel & in the end i had the collar recoded to new key

 

in hindsight i think it is possible to split the black plastic on the keys in half & swap the chip over ;)

[Thomas Boyce 10]

the lambda sensor was new for the last mot a couple of months before the problem i tried disconnecting it anyway just to see if it made a difference but the reaction was the same.

 

the car is a 1995 but it was the ignition switch not barrel i changed with no luck however ill look into the immobilizer thinking about it realistically it probably is more like 5 seconds maximum without timing it

 

didnt realize thered be a factory fitted one thought it would all just be part of the aftermarket viper one on there.

 

anyone know anything about these and anyway to go round it or is it pretty solid? can you run a vagcom without the car running?

[g0ldf1ng3r 13]

if it is not the immobiliser collar / chip in key issue (as you havent changed your barrel)

 

it could be that the collar has somehow stopped talking to the immobiliser

 

the issue would be the same - car starts ok but then cuts out after few seconds

 

IIRC someone here recently had an issue where the wire which goes from the immob collar to the fuse board had a break in it - that thread might help you also

[Andy R32 10]

I had something very similar a couple of weeks ago. (1995 2.0 8V)

 

Drove into town at lunch time, got back to the car then it would crank and fire but then cut out (after about 1 second). RAC came out and diagnosed it as an imobilizer fault, after that they towed me home and I tried another key but had the same issues, so the RAC guy phoned his car security expert mate who thought that as both keys wouldn't work it was the antenna ring aroung the iginition barrel.

 

He left it at that and I started stripping down the column to take off the antenna ring. On taking the column to bits I though I should check the fuses, one had blown (fuse 16) I replaced it and blew again. So I searched on here and found that it covers;

 

Boot light

Glove box light

Sunroof

Rear spoiler

Dash illumination

Immobiliser

 

So I started disconnenting as much as I could (didin't diconnect the immobiliser or dash illumination).

 

After this I tired starting it again and it worked. The spoiler was blowing the fuse and cutting the immobilser.

 

So put your ignition on and try your spoiler switch, then check your fuses and see if 16 has gone (15 amp).

 

Andy

Edited May 20, 2014 by Andy R32

[Supercharged 2]

I can't believe the ammount of parts you've changed!!

 

Get it on a diagnostic before doing anything else or call the AA etc if you have cover...

 

VAGCOM will probably come up with 'engine start blocked by imobiliser'

[CazzaVR 0]

Try cleaning the small black plug from that connects the immobiliser ring to the small black box under the dash with electrical cleaner or wd40. Unplug, spray, plug back in, unplug, spray etc several times. Cheap, easy fix that's well worth trying before spending anymore money. Worked on at least two of my old Rado's that were suffering from similar symptoms.

[Micky fletch 10]

I had a similar problem with my valver. It would fire but not run. It was a loose relay in the fuse box number 57 maybe have a look there.

[Thomas Boyce 10]

Thanks for the advice peeps ill check all tomoro and update

[Thomas Boyce 10]

ok pulled all the relays in and out and checked all the fuses all seem fine

 

now the immobilizer is strange, i realized when i went to check it that none of my keys are original or have transponders, in fact the key i used on a daily basis i had made down the road in a standard locksmiths, however there is a immobilizer unit and transponder ring around the barrel as described

 

could the immobilizer have been wiped from the ecu in the past and somehow the ecu reset to factory recently?

 

might ring the rac later and see if they can vagcom it, the obd reader i have only errors with the rado