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Ray1965

Leaking Radiator on Vr6 Engine / Replacement Advise Please

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Happy new year guys.

Car has been stood for a just over a week for xmas took it for a run and the radiator decided to let go. The rad has a pin hole in the core fins approx one inch from the bottom of the rad.

If anyone can point me to how to replace the rad, any pit falls to look out for etc etc and also most importantly where's the best place to buy a replacement from, would be greatly appreciated.

I will be looking into it myself, but just thought i'd ask you guys first.

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It's pretty easy replacing the rad - just time consuming. You unfortunately need to take the whole front end off but it's not too difficult. Having had the front end off now probably 5 or 6 times in the last two years firstly for the radiator job and several alternator swaps, I can get everything off to access the radiator now within about 45 minutes.

 

The best option is a Hella rad as they're now obsolete from VW - I've got one on my VR and it's fine. I got mine from these guys - came very quickly, and as I say, was a Hella unit but might be worth ringing them to confirm that's still the one they supply:

 

http://www.radiatorshop.net/products/volkswagen-corrado-29-i--vr6

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Cheers for the info Jim.

I've contacted this company and seems to be a good... http://www.northernradiators.co.uk/products/car_radiators/index:search.html

£113 delivered next day. Did it at a trade price as well.

I take it all the bumper has to come off?

I just worried that the bolts clips etc will all go back and wont have to start getting new screws bolts clips etc.

Edited by Ray1965

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Yeah - it can seem pretty daunting but isn't so bad once you get into it. From memory the process is vaguely:

 

* Headlights, foglights, indicators out.

* Chin spoiler off, then the support bracket that attaches the chin spoiler to the bumper.

* A jack underneath the block ideally on a bit of wood to support the engine.

* Unplug temperature sensor on lower driver side of bumper, undo the four big bolts and remove front bumper.

* Remove bolts holding radiator to slam panel. Then remove the 10-12 bolts holding the slam panel to the wings / subframe. No need to disconnect the bonnet release cable - just swing the slam panel over to the side out of the way.

 

Then it's a doddle to get at the radiator.

 

I had no trouble getting any of this stuff removed on mine - all came undone as required though I did need a longer bar for the bumper bolts as they're quite hefty and were on TIGHT.

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No need to take the chin spoiler off but the long bracket holding the bumper/ spoiler to the x member does need to come off.

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Thanks again Jim. Will be tackling it at the weekend. Anyone local to me in south Yorkshire btw who has done this before i could fall back on if needed?

Anyone used the rad company in the link?

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No need to take the chin spoiler off but the long bracket holding the bumper/ spoiler to the x member does need to come off.

 

Hi Chris, Cheers for that

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Only because I was told it was a good idea.. and I didn't question it as I don't know any better :)

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Rog, when the bumper is removed the front cross member is only held on by a single bolt either side. The cross member supports the front engine mount and it'll tip forward if the bolts fail.

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Thanks again Jim. Will be tackling it at the weekend. Anyone local to me in south Yorkshire btw who has done this before i could fall back on if needed?

Anyone used the rad company in the link?

Yes and no I'm afraid rog, im heading to hull this weekend to help Matty get his engine out..... Feel free to call me though. I'll pm you my number

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I've never supported the engine, I just assumed the bumper bolts only held the bumper.

 

Rog.

 

You may well be right - I'm pretty clueless about how the engine is supported, subframes, etc... so just did it to be sure! Be good to get some confirmation if anyone knows 100% ? :)

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The two outer 17mm bolts secure the bumper to the crossmember through the chassis legs. This obviously gives added strength so if they're removed, all that's holding the cross member on is the 15mm centre ones to the chassis legs on captive nuts.

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The 4x bolts that hold the bumper also are the ones doing the work holding the x member to the chassis legs. The 2smaller bolts do hold the x member but folk prefer to back these up as they are a bit skinny. While my car was in bits I used threaded bar and washes to hold the x member in place. Safe better than sorry

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Yes and no I'm afraid rog, im heading to hull this weekend to help Matty get his engine out..... Feel free to call me though. I'll pm you my number

 

Cheers pal, I've got your number off the pm.

Still don't know to use the guys from Northen Rad Group in leeds to supply the new rad?

I found this company http://www.fastrads.co.uk/partfinder/?id=1&utm_source=GoogleSearch&utm_medium=cpc&creative=37484841266&utm_term=corrado%20radiators&utm_content=37484841266&utm_campaign=&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1

Edited by Ray1965

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Just to add my experience, ordered one of the hella radiators from the first link, and it arrived about 3 days later, looks the buisness, have trial fitted it and looks to fit perfectly. Oh and with regard the bolts holding the subframe in, I wouldn't trust the two smaller bolts, just in case.

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Euro car parts, often on sale for £50 ish. As others have said don't tak front end off, just bumper and the top cross member. Rad will sneak out.

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Ad rad in North East came recommended by fuzzer, I remember that

 

Yeh opted to go with Advanced rads.

Good price, and it's a Hella and the delivery was free.

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New Rad arrived to day. Now for the fun part.

Just another question 1st of many. Will i need to remove the fog lights and indicators from out of the bumper?

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If you're removing the bumper, you'll have to remove the fogs and indicators to disconnect them anyway mate

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If you're removing the bumper, you'll have to remove the fogs and indicators to disconnect them anyway mate

 

Yeh cheers,i was thinking that you could just unplug the wiring from behind then take bumper off.

Just trying to make the job as easy as poss tbh.

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Put a screwdriver in the side of the indicator and just pop them out, they come out real easy, once out they are easy to disconnect...I think the fog lights are disconnected using the pugs in front of the battery and under (or in front)the airbox also don't forget to disconnect the outside temp sensor, its in the lower grill on the drivers side, easy to disconnect from inside the bumper.

 

 

Rog.

Edited by Roger Chatfield

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