EJ Taylor 22 Posted May 5, 2015 Anyone who has done this... what else did you do with it gear box wise? when it comes to gear boxes in clueless, any help and/or advise would be appreciated as i need to calculate what additional costs are involved. Already done clutch and flywheel both swapped for competition standard parts, ill be going into the 400bhp mark next year so whatever i need to do box wise to handle that ill be looking to do when i do the diff. Forged parts and block work will be done when i re-build the block (reduce the pulley size, front mount, vales and springs and map) Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mic_VR 3 Posted May 5, 2015 Make sure you've got a spare box?! Just in case.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted May 5, 2015 Make sure you've got a spare box?! Just in case.... ha, im planning on not needing a spare... but when it comes to "re-building the box" a term i hear so much, what actually needs doing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 5, 2015 Didn't do anything to mine other than a rebuild (new bearings, syncro rings etc) when the Quiche diff went in. Never had any problems with mine during 60K of turboness. The main thing is mechanical sympathy mate. Avoid giving it big beans over bumps, be progressive on the throttle. It's the sudden shock of regaining grip after a wheel spin that can bust a gear, and that can happen quite a lot over a bumpy surface. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HummuH 10 Posted May 5, 2015 (edited) What 02A box you running? Not sure what you mean about LSD reinforcement. I run about 380bhp through a CBA 02A. The 02A's seem to handle the power well enough although 4th seems to become vulnerable with higher torque. High rev 2nd to 3rd changes are often difficult and easy to miss. I'm in the process of swapping the 2nd, 4th and 5th from a VR6 CCM into my box. I run a Sachs racing 4 plate paddle clutch and lightened G60 flywheel. Very driveable despite the paddle clutch. In all seriousness, if you plan to use the car (and maybe more importantly, the power of the car) regularly, a spare box is a must IMO. With that power/torque, something will go at some point, it comes with the territory. Same goes for CV's, drive-shafts, bearings etc, they take a pounding over roughs surfaces when on throttle. What diff you going for? Traction, even with semi-slicks, is still my biggest issue though very manageable. Personally, I'd get the car to where you want it power wise and then choose what you do with the box as if you're using standard gearing it was designed for a car with less than half the power/torque. Edited May 5, 2015 by HummuH Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted May 6, 2015 Didn't do anything to mine other than a rebuild (new bearings, syncro rings etc) when the Quiche diff went in. Never had any problems with mine during 60K of turboness. The main thing is mechanical sympathy mate. Avoid giving it big beans over bumps, be progressive on the throttle. It's the sudden shock of regaining grip after a wheel spin that can bust a gear, and that can happen quite a lot over a bumpy surface. Mechanical sympathy is not something im very good with. So im hoping to make it bomb proof, but i appreciate what your saying and will have to take this into consideration. did you find a huge difference in grip once you fitted your diff? as atm im running what i can only describe as 1 wheels drive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted May 6, 2015 What 02A box you running? Not sure what you mean about LSD reinforcement. I run about 380bhp through a CBA 02A. The 02A's seem to handle the power well enough although 4th seems to become vulnerable with higher torque. High rev 2nd to 3rd changes are often difficult and easy to miss. I'm in the process of swapping the 2nd, 4th and 5th from a VR6 CCM into my box. I run a Sachs racing 4 plate paddle clutch and lightened G60 flywheel. Very driveable despite the paddle clutch. In all seriousness, if you plan to use the car (and maybe more importantly, the power of the car) regularly, a spare box is a must IMO. With that power/torque, something will go at some point, it comes with the territory. Same goes for CV's, drive-shafts, bearings etc, they take a pounding over roughs surfaces when on throttle. What diff you going for? Traction, even with semi-slicks, is still my biggest issue though very manageable. Personally, I'd get the car to where you want it power wise and then choose what you do with the box as if you're using standard gearing it was designed for a car with less than half the power/torque. I mean reinforcements that need to be done elsewhere to compensate for the diff and the extra amount of stress it will put on things. Like i said im useless with gear box's mines just the standard vr one what ever that is, im looking at a wavetrac as in general they seem to be the best bet, although i understand there's a fag paper between them and qweef (im well aware thats not the spelling) Running a competition clutch stage 2 clutch and billet lightened flywheel as well as a million other mods ha. Im just hoping to gain more traction as at the moment im running about 320/30 and its a 1 wheeled nightmare, Are you charged are turbo'd? as i imagine it would spin up a lot easier on a turbo, my Vortech doesnt really get going till about 3.5/4k so its main issues for traction are 1st/2nd/3rd and the corners. I want to run a good comfortable 400bhp set up, well thats my target, and then just get it driving mint. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 6, 2015 Mechanical sympathy is not something im very good with. So im hoping to make it bomb proof, but i appreciate what your saying and will have to take this into consideration. did you find a huge difference in grip once you fitted your diff? as atm im running what i can only describe as 1 wheels drive. Not really! The diff was put in a few years before I went forced induction and as soon as boost came along, it started wheel spinning like mad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted May 6, 2015 I mean reinforcements that need to be done elsewhere to compensate for the diff and the extra amount of stress it will put on things. Like i said im useless with gear box's mines just the standard vr one what ever that is, im looking at a wavetrac as in general they seem to be the best bet, although i understand there's a fag paper between them and qweef (im well aware thats not the spelling) Running a competition clutch stage 2 clutch and billet lightened flywheel as well as a million other mods ha. Im just hoping to gain more traction as at the moment im running about 320/30 and its a 1 wheeled nightmare, Are you charged are turbo'd? as i imagine it would spin up a lot easier on a turbo, my Vortech doesnt really get going till about 3.5/4k so its main issues for traction are 1st/2nd/3rd and the corners. I want to run a good comfortable 400bhp set up, well thats my target, and then just get it driving mint. Without wanting to sound like an a rse, if you struggle to drive with 320 bhp, why go for 400? Is it merely for bragging rights or do you want to go faster? If it's for bragging rights then fair enough but if you want to go faster, get a professional instructor to guide you through the process before you spend a lot of money just so that you can trash your running gear quicker. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted May 6, 2015 Without wanting to sound like an a rse, if you struggle to drive with 320 bhp, why go for 400? Is it merely for bragging rights or do you want to go faster? If it's for bragging rights then fair enough but if you want to go faster, get a professional instructor to guide you through the process before you spend a lot of money just so that you can trash your running gear quicker. Here here! Pretty much sums up my thoughts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted May 6, 2015 I'm sure you would have been able to put it across in a much more polite way than I managed to Jim! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted May 6, 2015 How about using the golf r32 or 4motion box? One of them seems to be the stronger box?? I'm not sure about the blanking plate etc for the transfer box but when I had the box it seemed to have equal length drive shafts at front I could be wrong Plus you get 6gears Problem is you already got/ spent money on a flywheel and clutch It weighs lot more too compared to the vr box Zak Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted May 6, 2015 The equal length shafts would help imo With about 200ft lbs of torque I chew through my near side tyre compared to off side and I'm a steady driver lol Zak Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted May 6, 2015 That 02M box is pretty nails compared to the standard box but you're right Zak,it weighs a ton! The drive shafts are different lengths though? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted May 6, 2015 I know my kids struggled to move the 4mo box lol Yes I've just checked and there is only about 10cm difference in shaft length for the 4mo And about 20cm difference in the vr6 shaft lengths Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 6, 2015 The O2Q from the MK5 GTI is the best bet being FWD but you'd have to pick up a signal for the speedo from the ABS sensor instead, as there's no gearbox sender. It's a lot of work though! The O2A is fine for 400hp Supercharger applications though as the torque delivery isn't as brutal as a turbo. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted May 6, 2015 Isn't it the casing that's the weak point in the vr6 box? Which reminds me about the wavetrack gb Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted May 6, 2015 Without wanting to sound like an a rse, if you struggle to drive with 320 bhp, why go for 400? Is it merely for bragging rights or do you want to go faster? If it's for bragging rights then fair enough but if you want to go faster, get a professional instructor to guide you through the process before you spend a lot of money just so that you can trash your running gear quicker. Here here! Pretty much sums up my thoughts. Not at all its a valid question, Going up in power is not something i am doing till next year i just want to make sure what ever i do when i do the diff wont require further work when i come to do it all. An increase in power could yet prove unneeded but i doubt ill be satisfied once the diff is done. i can quite happily get off the line from 1st to 5th with no spin, and i would rate my driving abilities as above average however im very very limited by the traction an open diff can achieve and im limited by the car, and i know once the diff is done ill end up back here wanting more power. So its hard to directly answer your question, A close friend of mine is running 440bhp taken back to 400bhp on his 2.2ltr fn2 V-tech engined prelude S and that things a monster, obviously they already come with a lsd, but thats what power i want, a pull from 60-70 like mine does from 30 just an all out animal. But i guess if you apply logic then my entire car is pointless, it has a half roll cage (pointless) a stupidly tuned engine and soon to be fitted light weight Recaro Speeds, to then chuck in half a tons worth of audio (pointless) then the awesome KW suspension, wound to the floor with about 1mm of travel (pointless) i guess logic and principles are not relevant in any aspect of the build, i just want to build something awesome and mental and completely pointless. A roll caged, audio filled, stance slammed, drag, track monster. So i guess its for bragging rights, going faster and just for the sake of building an awesome car that will make me happy and i will love. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted May 6, 2015 The O2Q from the MK5 GTI is the best bet being FWD but you'd have to pick up a signal for the speedo from the ABS sensor instead, as there's no gearbox sender. It's a lot of work though! The O2A is fine for 400hp Supercharger applications though as the torque delivery isn't as brutal as a turbo. As always a very appreciated response Kev, thank you! :thumbleft: That first bit might be an issue as the ABS is coming out as some point! But ill be sure to do what you said in the ways of reinforcement and look into getting a spare box as some mentioned, tbh the car only does about 2/3k a year so the second box wont be a high priority. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted May 6, 2015 The equal length shafts would help imo With about 200ft lbs of torque I chew through my near side tyre compared to off side and I'm a steady driver lol Zak yer the different length shafts are a bit of a b*tch 6 gears scare me, i already sail past the speedo far more than i should, i dread to think what i would be like with another gear to hit :bonk: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted May 6, 2015 So i guess its for bragging rights, going faster and just for the sake of building an awesome car that will make me happy and i will love. Get the 4motion box to add to the list lol You can't have a Honda ahead of you shorter ratios will help accelerate quicker Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted May 6, 2015 Get the 4motion box to add to the list lol You can't have a Honda ahead of you shorter ratios will help accelerate quicker [ATTACH=CONFIG]81454[/ATTACH] Not just any Honda haha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted May 6, 2015 Tidy!! But still don't you want to have the edge over it??? Only problem we have is the vr probably weighs more than the k20 and box together lol(I know you said 2.2) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted May 6, 2015 Tidy!! But still don't you want to have the edge over it??? Only problem we have is the vr probably weighs more than the k20 and box together lol(I know you said 2.2) Of corse i bloody do, haha, yer not to mention im 17st so thats not a great help.. and all the audio i have going in there, and the MDF box we are building to contain the W3s ha. Its a loosing battle ha, and he kind of owns one of if not the best Honda tuning companies in the country. But hey, all in the name of race car. haha (and i swear its a 2.2.. oh well bloody lawn mowers all the same ent they) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted May 6, 2015 I had a 220bhp b18c in an ek4 civic is was alright nice noise but torque less naturally sold it to a guy who is using it in a stripped out mini now Charged v-tecs make lots of power Having 2 cam profiles makes for a nice broad power band engines wise Honda are great but still lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites