SteveM16v 0 Posted June 24, 2004 Apparently I have a Porous sump! Is this a, easy to change and b, cheap? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_mat 0 Posted June 24, 2004 You mean it has a hole in it!? :) I'd imagine that will be easily rectified by replacing it with a new one! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted June 24, 2004 nah, dr_mat, it's a reasonably common thing on 4 Cylinder VWs that if they've had a head gasket go in their past, the sump starts to rust slightly from the inside and eventually becomes porus and lets oil through it even though it's mechanically sound and intact (ie no holes) SteveM16v, Sumps are around £20 from GSF and the gasket is about £8 It's not a technically difficult job to do, but you will need some time as it's fiddly and you have to be VERY careful not to cross thread the bolts putting the new one back on... the ones by the gearbox are especially little gits! ;) :? I'd guess at around 2 hours to do it at home from car intact to running again) if you're any good and have done similar before, an hour or so longer if not... 8) procedure is: Drop oil as per oil change. Pput the sump plug back in (stops it dripping on you as you're working on it! ;) ) Remove the gearbox inspection/guard plate cover on the bottom of the box (the little bit which allows you to be able to take the gearbox off and keeps the crud outta the clutch ;) ) Remove the 10mm bolts in around the sump. Crack 'em off first so they're all loose and then remove in an alternate pattern fashion ie, one from one side, then one from the opposite side working around the sump. Remove the sump and old gasket and clean up the bottom of the block to make sure it's clean and will seal nicely on the new gasket. Refitting is the reverse of removal [/haynes] only will involve lots more swearing and tired arms! ;) :lol: Replace the oil filter and put the sump bung into the new sump Fill up with oil as per an oil change Done... 8) Hope this helps... 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 24, 2004 VR6 ones go too. Mine rotted from the outside in and sure enough I could see daylight through it when taken off. I thought the engine was burning oil but it was just throwing it onto the road! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteveM16v 0 Posted June 25, 2004 Henny, as always your a star! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteveM16v 0 Posted June 25, 2004 Actually, Henny, could this be the reason I'm suffering with a very pour running engine? see my post on Hesitating below: Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2004 10:04 am Post subject: Hesitating -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I've had so many problems with my C I'm starting to lose the will to live! Headgasket went - £600 pounds later and I'm still having problems. It was running fine before the head gasket went, but since getting it back from the garage its running crap. Its hesitating when increasing speed and its also a bit gutt-less. The idle is ruff regardless of whether hot or cold. I've given it back to the garage and they can't find the problem. They have changed the fuel filter as well as going over all of their work (twice) and still they can't find the fault and now insist it isn't down to them. Has anyone any ideas? Thanks as always PS they also changed the leads Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andycowuk 0 Posted June 25, 2004 i wouldnt recomend doing it in one session, for the reason that the oil on the inside of the block insists on dripping! Appart from making you a bit messy, if it gets on any sealing faces while you are putting it back together its a wasted job. I left mine without a sump overnight so the oil could drip all it wanted, and was fairly thick , giving me time to clean up the sealing face, and the inside of the block, and get the sump back on without oil getting in the seal. The down side to doing it over two days, is that you are really stiff on the second day!!!! Make sure you use a mini torque rench too, so that you can acurately set the torque, if its too tight or too loose, guess what happens! I did it on my golf with the same toqure wrench i use to do the head bolts, and although 15lb/ft is within the range, it is not so accurate at the extremities of its limits of operation, and it leaked. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henny 0 Posted June 25, 2004 Good point about the 2 session thing Andy, I did mine morning and late afternoon, so I suppose I did leave quite a long break with the sump off... :roll: :oops: A porus sump should not affect the running of the engine unless it's lost all it's oil thru it, in which case you may well seize up the engine by running it dry! :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites