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p0l1wrath

Vr6 throttle angle

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The reading in vagcom (VCDS) should say less than 14 with the butterfly at rest. It's a fiddly job to adjust as the locknut changes the reading as you tighten it up but trial and error you will get there! Mine also changes with temperature so don't try and get too close to 14. 13 does me.

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Thanks for the reply, mine was at 7 and now is at 8, I fiddled with it before when I did isv delete, but now with an isv back on, I'm trying to get it right, although I'm having idle issues at the moment... Pretty sure if I cranked it to 13, it would sit very high in the revs for an idle

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The idea is you leave the pedal where it is and move the sensor.. ;)

 

No idea what your on about here? I'm adjusting the stop screw, never mentioned a pedal or a sensor...

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No idea what your on about here? I'm adjusting the stop screw, never mentioned a pedal or a sensor...

 

+1 on that...The sensor is fixed and it's the butterfly you move on it's stop. The ECU takes care of the idle speed. (Especially as you now have the ISV back in) If it's vastly out make sure the damper pot doesn't bottom out before the butterfly hits it's stop. I would try and get it up to something like 12 or 13

Edited by buttles

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+1 on that...The sensor is fixed and it's the butterfly you move on it's stop. The ECU takes care of the idle speed. (Especially as you now have the ISV back in) If it's vastly out make sure the damper pot doesn't bottom out before the butterfly hits it's stop. I would try and get it up to something like 12 or 13

 

Well other then the fact that the idle is lumpy it does seem to be at the right speed other then the lumpiness, I'm just trying to find out if anywhere under 14 degrees is fine, or wether it should be only a couple of degrees under 14?

 

Is anyone able to confirm this? Or a few people able to provide their throttles angles?

 

Thanks

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To a point. If the pedal end stop is radically out of position the pedal could be holding the throttle butterfly slightly open at all times which would screw things up right royally. But I doubt that's the case here.

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I would:

 

1 - Disconnect the throttle cable

2 - Wind the dashpot all the way down.

3 - Check the throttle positon and if it's really low, like 6 or 7 or something...

4 - Wind the throttle stop until you see around 12-13.

5 - Wind the dashpot up until it just starts lifting the throttle, then wind it back a turn.

6 - Reconnect the cable and recheck the readings. Slacken it off if necessary.

 

The reason for this is throttle plates are never fully sealed, they're always open a little bit to bleed some air for idling. The ISV fills in the bulk of the idling air requirements, but the really gash thing with the VR6 engine (and why it needs the dashpot) is the sudden throttle closure starves those 6 cyls of air too abruptly, and she likes to stall as a consequence. So by having enough of a throttle opening and enough time for the dashpot to 'catch' the falling revs, gives the ISV more time to get it's arse into gear, and therefore the best possible idle.

 

If it still stalls after that, it's usually the MAF.

 

As for lumpiness, that's just VR6s for you!

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Thanks for the info, will try this tomorrow!

As for the MAF, the unplug test seems to prove that it's working.

When I say lumpiness, I don't mean standard lumpiness, more of a wild hunt, will do things like sit at 2000rpm for a few seconds whilst idling and dip the revs before increasing when you press the pedal, the spark plugs foul up in about 30 minutes, but I have ****ty super 4's in there at the moment so have to 2 electrode ngk's coming tomorrow morning!

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If you have vagcom you can watch to see how the ecu is fueling the engine at idle. On tab 3 or 4 is the Lambda output. It should wander up and down through 1 regularly. May explain your bad plugs. In tab 5 I think is the Adaptation for Idle, mid and full throttle. Shouldn't be too far away from 1 (Lambda)

Edited by buttles

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