Tizedes 10 Posted September 21, 2016 Hello Guys, I have a cooling issue on my 95` 2.0 16v Rado since I have flushed my coolant system. Fun does not kick off on stage one and after run switch does not work. Or some reason the fan does not kick off after when the car stopped. Anyone knows the part number of the after run switch? Is it located driver side front of the engine? Single switch sit on a bracket. Where is the fan relay located? I am going to replace the fan control switch tomorrow. And another problem on my Mfa always shows the mpg 99.9. How can i check it what is the problem? Any help much appreciate. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted September 22, 2016 MFA MPG explanation i have just found: It measures engine vacuum (or boost in certain clusters from cars with boost engines), compares the vacuum readings to a table to determine engine load, and then calculates that with road speed to get MPG. If you have a non-stock car (something that breathes better, or is boosted and the MFA doesn't sense boost), it'll read higher since it thinks the engine isn't working as hard as it should to go as fast as you are going. There is a diagnostics menu in the MFA (turn the key on-off-on while holding the MFA button, starting the car is optional), it'll show you the raw signal from the speed sensor (1 number is added for every 1/4 turn of the wheels, and it uses that distance measurement plus time to calculate speed). There is anther setting in diagnostic mode to show instant mpg (so if you floor it, it'll go low, if you coast in gear it'll be 99.9, or close as can be to infinity). And there is yet another setting in diag mode to get a raw reading from the vacuum sensor (it displays a coded number that directly relates to a specific in/hg or bar reading (so you can use it like a real vacuum gauge). Also, each MFA cluster is coded to the engine it came with (16v, Digi 8v, CIS 8v, etc) for the load table. If you have the wrong cluster in the wrong car it'll be off too. G60 Corrados (and Mk2s in Europe) had a vacuum sensor that also senses boost and displayed proper MPG. if you boost a non-boost-sensitive cluster, it'll just read no load on the vacuum scale, so that'll drive the average up too. This is why if the vacuum sensor is broken or not connected (no load), it shows 99.9mpg, and if the speed sensor is broken or not connected it'll show ---mpg (you're not moving). My engine is basically a stock 2.0 16v (chip and exhaust, but those shouldn't affect the load readings as the engine breathes the same) and my MFA is consistently 2mpg higher than actual. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tizedes 10 Posted September 22, 2016 Thank you g0ldf1ng3r. I have a drilled air filter house and KR cam, 60mm manifold. That is why it does not not work. If i take out the battery after it is works for a couple of minutes until it is not reach the 99.9. Do you have any idea for the other things? Thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tizedes 10 Posted September 22, 2016 How can I go to the second and a third diagnostic mode? Thanks for your answer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g0ldf1ng3r 15 Posted September 23, 2016 How can I go to the second and a third diagnostic mode? Thanks for your answer. sorry no idea on the fans but i would try replacing the temp sensors. i have a VR & 1.8 16v so unsure of the 2.0 MFA hidden menu is: turn the key on-off-on while holding the MFA button, but then i am unsure of the order of output readings as you cycle the MFA Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted September 23, 2016 Thank you g0ldf1ng3r. I have a drilled air filter house and KR cam, 60mm manifold. That is why it does not not work. If i take out the battery after it is works for a couple of minutes until it is not reach the 99.9. Do you have any idea for the other things? Thank you The drilled airbox shouldn't make any difference and the KR cam and 50mm don't affect it either (I know this for sure ;) ) Assuming later cars have one, I'd be checking the pipe from that leads to the little module on the back of the clocks as if man handled the hose nipple could be snapped off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tizedes 10 Posted September 23, 2016 I will check at the weekend but I am sure i do not have any pipe back of the clock. Where is it come from the engine bay? Cheers Guys Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZpog 10 Posted September 23, 2016 I will check at the weekend but I am sure i do not have any pipe back of the clock. Where is it come from the engine bay? Cheers Guys Not 100% sure but think it goes to the elbow just before the throttle body. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tizedes 10 Posted September 23, 2016 Thanks MZpog. Looks like mine does not have this pipe. I have checked now. Please see the pictures attached. [ATTACH=CONFIG]84607[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]84608[/ATTACH] I read somewhere the late Rados gets the information from some sensor but i do not know which one is that. Any suggestion for the after run fan switch? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites