Gotcha ... three questions

[Bob's Dad 10]

So its been a couple weeks and Bob & I love tooling around town with the Corrado. The first time we had a Jetta guy with his face plastered on his window looking at our car as we passed, I couldn't stop smiling.

 

We've tackled the e-brake to fix first, easy enough. Of course the lever was about pulled off the center hump, and the guide tube broke due to rust. But as soon as ebay delivers, we'll be done with that. Next I have two projects, I'd like help with some info ...

 

Chain noise ... I can't really tell if there is any, the seller said we should check on it. Here is a start-up video if anyone cares to check it out. The VW mechanic said to try replacing the tensioner bolt first. Sounds easy enough. But I bought 'the new style' without a hole in the tip, which seems like I can't use with my 92 VR6. Question 1: Easy question ... Do I need to find the old style? When I ordered it, I didn't know there was a difference, and hadn't encountered any for sale of the 'old style'. (2.8L USA version)

 

Shifting problems for 2nd, 4th. ... A few times after running it for a while, getting into these gears means hold down on the shifter, they'd either want to grind or pop out. Last run-around yesterday, I didn't seem to have this problem, or I am getting used to compensating. So there are three things I can do: fiddle with the shift lever on the transmission, take apart the shifter, or hope it goes away. Question 2: where would you start?

 

Related to the shifting problem is the fact that the cables run very close to the aftermarket header as they both enter the center hump. Could the heat here be a problem? It looks like something melted on the one cable shield already. Question 3: Is this something I should be concerned with?

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Anyway, any help on these would be great. Hopefully soon we can get back to the fun stuff like buying wheels.

Edited April 3, 2017 by Bob's Dad

[seanl82 23]

The cables do run close to the downpipe, but should run under the heatshield just underneath where you can see. Not much you can do really.

 

Have a look at this first. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?32297-gear-linkage-adjustment&p=415342&viewfull=1#post415342

 

There is also a circlip on the side of the shifter on the pivot arm, pull up the gaiter and surround, and ensure this is in place.

 

Cant really help with the tensioner bolt, but there are later style bolts for use on mk4 Rabbit engines which can be retrofitted.

I'd go a little further though, as its the top tensioner that fails most. You can use the Mk4 tensioner too and its pretty cheap. Only thing is you'll have to remove the top chain cover. Details on how to do it can be found here http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_clutch_and_timing_chains_replacement_part_1.html

This also shows how the top tensioner can wear, and I've seen them in even worse condition than this before so definitely worth replacing if you're not going the whole hog and doing all the chains etc. You'll be able to see down to the lower part too and inspect for any further damage.

[Bob's Dad 10]

Thanks Sean. Good help on the shifter stuff, I'll dig into it next week. Nothing like winding her out and not being able to get into fourth.

 

I did find this on another form digging around about the old/new tensioners:

 

The new style tensioner with the threads that extend to the end can only be used with the plastic upper chain guide. It does not extend far enough to use it with the metal upper chain guide. It uses oil pressure plus a spring to tension the upper chain.

 

The old style tensioner with the centered threads is used with the metal upper chain guide. It has that tit that fits into a slot on the metal upper chain guide. It cannot be used with the plastic upper chain guide. It also is oil pressure only - no spring assist.

 

Unfortunately to change the upper chain guide you need to remove the lower timing cover, which needs the flywheel & trans & clutch etc. removed.

 

To recap, the tensioner bolt and the upper chain guide need to match. You can't easily change the upper chain guide.

[VAG-hag 0]

The new style (yellow) tensioner from a mk4 12v is the part to use with the newer bolt. It's the top tensioner that tends to wear 1st and it's not too bad to access it and change over to new one.

 

Changing the bolt alone will not help you mate

[Bob's Dad 10]

Well, I've fiddled enough with the shifter bolts that now I can't get/find 5th gear. Sad Corrado can just hit 1, 3, and Reverse. Enough to run around the block, Bob's not happy, and I'm frustrated.

 

It does seem that 2nd and 4th not engaging would do with the linkage, not the tranny itself. I've googled and googled for ideas ... it could be the synchros, it could be the teeth on the shifter post, it could be bad cables. Sigh.