Engineered oak flooring

[edd 0]

Hi all

 

Bit off topic but I know us corrado owners are a devil with the detail and a practical bunch

 

Though some of you maybe just have the knowledge I need and be willing to spread your wisdom

 

I am due to install circa 50m2 of 16mm engineered oak flooring (woodpecker flooring) at home. It is at ground floor level (but circa 12 inches above external floor level) on a concrete slab (part of which definitely has a integral DPM course and insulating layer) that was poured approx 10 years ago. When I lifted the previous laminate flooring there was a felt type underlay with a plastic membrane underneath. There was ZERO evidence of damp whatsoever and my (budget range) damp meter records little to/no damp.

 

Part of the room (circa 15m2) is already tiled with a limestone/travertine type flooring. For various reasons I wish to bring the overall height of the finished floor level up so I will be part laying the new floor over the existing tiles. To do this I am also building up the area of flooring without the tiles with 18mm CDX which matches the finished level of the tiles.

 

The non tiled area of floor has been self levelled circa 4 weeks ago.it Probably required up to about 5mm self levelling in places, but now has a good level throughout.

 

My preference (I think)is to screw 16mm CDX to subfloor and the glue engineered oak (T&G) to CDX rather than float it.

 

What are your opinions on the best methodology/fixing for CDX to concrete subfloor and engineered oak to CDX

 

I have spoken with manufacturer but they were fairly open ended in their recommendations

 

I don't wish to glue to CDX subfloor to self levelled floor in case we make changes in the future (I.e. Change to a tiled floor) and I have a floor full of edhesive to deal with

 

Thanks in advance

 

Edd

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dr_mat 0]

We full face glued. Can't see much point in making it more complex than that. Your subfloor already has a pretty random mix of levels and materials, what's one more..?

 

Adding another 16mm of floor height also seems counterproductive, particularly if you have thresholds to other rooms to deal with.

 

A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT.

[edd 0]

Ok. So you would glue both CDX to concrete subfloor and oak to CDX?

 

Adding the 18mm CDX helps in this case as it brings up the sub floor level to match the tile height. The 16mm of the engineer oak flooring on top will then bring the flooring level with the threshold of bifold doors I have had installed which is what we want.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[eugopnosaj 0]

 

I don't wish to glue to CDX subfloor to self levelled floor in case we make changes in the future (I.e. Change to a tiled floor) and I have a floor full of edhesive to deal with

 

 

Surely having 'a floor full of adhesive for the CDX to deal with' is no different to the rest of the floor that you are planning on gluing down, or are you only putting the flooring on top of the CDX? Curious, why are you planning on gluing it?

[dr_mat 0]

I have no complaints about your use of the extra height to even the room up between the "tiled" and "non-tiled" section. I read it that you planned to add *another* layer of CDX on top of *that* across the *entire floor*, which you would nail down, then glue the engineered wood on top. It's this additional layer I don't see the point of. Assuming this is what you meant.

 

Essentially if you don't glue the whole floor you will get a noisier floor. I've seen some installers use piles of glue like stand-offs and stuff but particularly with 16mm flooring it will sound lightweight if you don't full face glue it to something substantial.

 

 

A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT.

[Geeba 0]

Spend the money you'd of spent on CDX and float 22mm engineered oak on Timber-Mate Gold - there is no tapping or hollow sounding from that ;)

[edd 0]

Excellent thanks all. Appreciate your views and advice

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[eugopnosaj 0]

Essentially if you don't glue the whole floor you will get a noisier floor. I've seen some installers use piles of glue like stand-offs and stuff but particularly with 16mm flooring it will sound lightweight if you don't full face glue it to something substantial.

 

 

This isn't the case, you shouldn't need to bond the flooring to prevent sound, it all depends on the substrate and underlay. I have 14mm laminate with an MDF core, with 6mm underlay which is floated both on concrete and on original parquet flooring and it sounds perfectly fine. For clarification I work for a joinery company and we fit solid, engineered and laminate flooring, never do we bond it to a substrate unless it is absolutely necessary depending on its use (we do commercial fit outs)

[dr_mat 0]

Well, I would say "noisy" is subjective. It will sound different, is an objective way of saying it. Some people don't like the different, some don't care. Laminate doesn't behave quite the same as engineered oak with often very lightweight ply backing, as you are no doubt aware.

 

 

A Corrado is for life, not just for the MOT.

[Geeba 0]

Theres more to bonding as well... how old is the house and the concrete portion of the job... if it's a 50's, 60's and indeed some 70's the house will have no DPM - all they did back then is 'black-jack' the floor and then lay tiles over it.... if you directly bond to this without applying a DPM before latex it will draw up the damp and your expensive floor will end up in a pile outside your front door.

 

I'd still go 22mm engineered and Timber Mate Gold if the floor is already flat.

 

(ex floor layer)