g60rge 0 Posted June 7, 2018 i have a couple of problems with the g60 i have a misfire once the car is up to temperature, usually over 80 degrees - coolant temp. It back fires and splutters on hard acceleration. I have disconnected the lambda and it still does it (no change in running), ive swapped the blue coolant sensor with the black one, no change again. i did set the timing as per guides, the only thing i can say about that is the 0 on the flywheel was jumping about a little and not staying in the middle The other problem is the idle, from cold it sits just above 1000 and once warmed up it sits just below 1000. ive set it up as per guides but always goes back to the above once ive reconnected the blue sensor and rev'd 3 times etc its a 1h rallye engine with the superchips small pully and chip, merc FMIC, 4 branch and exhaust system, its using a normal g60 ecu not the rallye one This is all fitted in my mk1 gti thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gti_Jamo 10 Posted June 8, 2018 Could be an issue with the hall sensor mounted on the side of the distributor, or the wiring to it. However with it being temperature related and not affected by disconnecting lambda tell us otherwise. Swapping the temp sensors around may not be definitive to diagnosing a problems with the blue sensor as they are not the same. The black one doesn't sent he correct signal to the ECU. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60rge 0 Posted June 8, 2018 dizzy is brand new it hasn't even covered 500 miles, forgot to mention ive got some red ex in there atm. ive heard it can leave crap on the o2 sensor, but saying this ive run it with the o2 disconnected i do have the coil mounted on the block temporarily (don't ask) im wondering if its playing up once it gets hot, i will swap the blue sensor i have a working one in the glove box ;) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dox 23 Posted June 8, 2018 How do you know the superchip is calibrated to your current set up? Is cam / crank timing set correctly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60rge 0 Posted June 8, 2018 There is a chance is not calibrated like an sns one for example since they were off the shelf and no different depending on intercooler size, fpr rating or injector rating etc unless i was mistaken. I will be ordering an sns one once ive got the thing running properly and serviced the charger il have another go at timing it. Im thinking its to do with timing being so far out hence its also affected the idle what would cause the timing mark to jump around when setting up ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Simeon 0 Posted June 9, 2018 The timing marks are never completely static. Double check you aren't a tooth out on the cam as this is easily done on these engines. Have you replaced the o-ring on the idle screw? These are notorious for causing small air leaks that then affect idle. Have you removed and cleaned the ISV? Also worth trying a known good ISV off another car, the ABF (16v GTi) ones are the same fyi. The fact this is happening when up to temperature would always point to blue temp sensor causing an issue, have you looked at the wiring for this? I'd get the SNS chip fairly soon, mine ran very well with one of those fitted and it would eliminate another potential cause of your issues. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60rge 0 Posted June 13, 2018 i re checked the timing and set it to 6 degrees without it jumping around this time. the coil was in a bad location and i earthed the bracket to the head ive also tried 3 idle valves in total, one from a working rallye. it still does it once its hot will try a blue sensor and order an o ring or complete screw if i can next Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60rge 0 Posted June 30, 2018 i replaced the blue temp sensor with a new genuine one from vw and i still have the same issue :( i also double checked the timing on the timing belt end this time incase the flywheel wasn't correct but its bang on 6 degrees i didn't need to adjust it i will try an sns chip but the car ran good before so i really need to find whats gone wrong first im begining to think its fuel related, blocked fuel filter/injectors/ kinked hose which folds more with extra heat. il keep this updated but for now im locking it away as im going on a long holiday :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Simeon 0 Posted June 30, 2018 The cambelt needs to be at TDC, not 6btdc, so that'll be causing an issue. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
g60rge 0 Posted July 2, 2018 cambelt is set to tdc mate im talking ignition timing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites