jprocter 10 Posted November 12, 2019 Hi, I've installed a VR6 into my MK2 Golf and prior to that replaced the timing chains. The car runs but stutters/misfires on load and smells very rich when running. I've tried replacement MAF, coilpack, plugs and leads to no avail. After running the car on my driveway and then removing the plugs they are black and wet and smell of fuel. I'm now wondering if I got the timing correct..... I'm now in the process of checking that again. I've removed the intake and have the cam cover off. The engine doesn't have a TDC mark on the crank pulley so I've got a screwdriver in cyl.1 and had it in its highest position. I also have the cam alignment jig fitted. Am I right in thinking that I also need to check the intermediate shaft cutout is either at 12 of 6 o'clock position (I haven't done this yet). Please could someone confirm that If that isn't in either 6 or 12 that this could be my issue? Also can I make that adjustment without taking the gearbox back off i.e. just move that cams? Any assistance would be much appreciated! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Harrier 1 Posted November 12, 2019 There is a Tdc mark on the crankshaft pulley It’s in an odd place (around 4 o’clock position ) The timing can be adjusted without removing the gearbox Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jprocter 10 Posted November 12, 2019 Thanks for the reply. I fitted a replacement pulley which doesn't have the mark.. In regards ot the gearbox I was just concerned about the intermediate. i.e. if I have the lower chain incorrectly fitted crank to intermediate. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted November 12, 2019 Yes, that would cause those issues. I think I said the same on facebook to you. Yes you can remove bolts out of cam sprockets but make sure you torque them back up fully as it's pretty disastrous if you don't. I've read threads with people saying it will be fine but none seem to talk from experience, Vince from stealth says it needs to be right and that's good enough for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jprocter 10 Posted November 12, 2019 (edited) I just can't get my head round how I can adjust the intermediate sprocket to be in the correct place without adjusting it on the lower chain set. The car is currently timed correctly cam to crank. I'm kind of glad that this could be the issue as I'm all about ready to give up on it. Edited November 12, 2019 by jprocter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jprocter 10 Posted November 12, 2019 (edited) See below.... I think I can now see my issue. If the gearbox was off and I was looking at the chains the cutout on my intermediate sprocket is at about 10-11 o’clock. See Image below. Edited November 12, 2019 by jprocter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jprocter 10 Posted November 12, 2019 (edited) https://flic.kr/p/2hJZ5sM Edited November 12, 2019 by jprocter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted November 13, 2019 I think thats ok, as long as you can see the cutout i was told. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jprocter 10 Posted November 13, 2019 (edited) Thanks, I’ve put it back together but with a new fuel rail (mine was slightly bent, new fuel pressure reg and some other injectors. Hoping that will make a difference. Edited November 13, 2019 by jprocter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted November 15, 2019 Might also be worth replacing the blue temp sensor in the thermostat housing. A bad one of those can cause the over fuelling issue you've got. With regard to the timing, the intermediate sprocket mark should ideally be at 12 O'clock. If it's at 3 or 9 O'clock, that's when the problems start. 6 O'clock, although technically 180 degrees out, should also work. Best thing to do is get cyl 1 on TDC, stick the cam alignment tool in to check it slides in easily, spin the engine 4 times and then see if the alignment tool slides back in with no binding. If it does, the timing is OK. The main problem with the intermediate shaft being off is it affects the sequential injection. If the ECU can't accurately correlate the crank and cam positions, it will batch fire all 6 injectors, which will also give you the rich running. If it were me, I'd drop the gearbox and double check the intermediate shaft is at 12 O'clock. You can't do that without dropping the lower chain cover unfortunately. That is, if the problem persists after your most recent changes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jprocter 10 Posted November 16, 2019 Thanks for the reply, really appreciated. So I put it all back together and now have a screeching noise from the gearbox end of the engine it will only run for 3-4 seconds at a time then kinda starves itself! Either I’ve put it together incorrectly or the replacement injectors/rail or fuel pressure reg is rubbish! Joy! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites