Corrado won't turn on now

[Popeye775 16]

So I changed my o2 sensor, and now the car wont turn on. I was having weird burble issues and the o2 sensor took all of those away. Here is what I posted to the Vortex to try to get it solved. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This seems to be a never ending issue right now. I got a brand new ignition coil. The ohm reading was oddly high (4300 ohm for terminal 4 to 15). Not sure if this could still be the problem, but I went ahead and tested that the ignition coil and the hall sender are getting power. To which both of them are getting the necessary power to them. I checked that they were getting fuel by unplugging the ignition coil and turning the car over in order to get the injectors to spray. Things that I have tried so far:

New ignition coil
Checked the ohm reading to the spark plug wires (all were 6 ohm except the one going to the coil; that one was around 2.2 ohm)
Checked the spark plugs
Checked for spark
Triple checked the timing
Checked for fuel pressure and that the injectors are firing
Tested the battery to make sure it was good
Tested the wiring going to the ignition coil and to the hall sender
Checked the distributor cap for any damage

I am running out of ideas for things to test that it could be. Anybody know how I can test the hall sender without the VW special tool? Possibly ignition switch? Alternator? Voltage regulator? I am very confused and very lost. The only thing to have changed from the time it ran, to the time that it didn't is the o2 sensor. Even after I changed the o2, the car started up and ran. It ran better than it had in a couple months. Then out of the blue the next day, it just wont turn on.

Edited June 10, 2020 by Popeye775

[Popeye775 16]

Here is the car trying to start

[Dox 23]

Lack of engine movement and no cam belt cover on, has the timing jumped?

What RPM is displayed when cranking?

Edited June 10, 2020 by Dox

[Popeye775 16]

The RPM bounces. Usually getting up to around 200-500 when trying to crank. I haven't paid too much attention to the RPM when trying to start. You think the timing belt jumped a tooth? 

[Popeye775 16]

14 minutes ago, Dox said:

Lack of engine movement and no cam belt cover on, has the timing jumped?

What RPM is displayed when cranking?

It is really weird because the day before, the car was running good. Then I go to move it the next day and it ends up stalling and then not turning back on

[Dox 23]

Every non start the AA and RAC go to were running fine the previous time the car was used.

The engine appears not to move around on its mounts when cranked suggesting a compression issue, there's also an odd chuffing sound?

Edited June 10, 2020 by Dox

[Popeye775 16]

Every non start the AA and RAC go to were running fine the previous time the car was used.
The engine appears not to move around on its mounts when cranked suggesting a compression issue, there's also an odd chuffing sound?

The chuffing sound it coming out of the back of the exhaust. The compression was checked not even a month ago and the compression numbers came back fine. Should I double check compression?


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[Popeye775 16]

Every non start the AA and RAC go to were running fine the previous time the car was used.
The engine appears not to move around on its mounts when cranked suggesting a compression issue, there's also an odd chuffing sound?

Also I apologize but the AA and RAC? What do these two terms stand for?


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[Dox 23]

2 hours ago, Popeye775 said:

Also I apologize but the AA and RAC? What do these two terms stand for?


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They are UK breakdown services

[Popeye775 16]

They are UK breakdown services

Oh oh gotcha. So if the compression is fine, where would you go from here? I have a new ECU relay on the way, I can get a new distributor if need be, but I don’t know what else this could be.


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[Dox 23]

You say rpms are displayed so ecu ecu is powered and hall sensor in the dizzy is working?

if compression is ok I’d check ignition timing next

 

[Popeye775 16]

You say rpms are displayed so ecu ecu is powered and hall sensor in the dizzy is working?
if compression is ok I’d check ignition timing next
 

I will give it a shot. I thought I had the ignition timing set at TDC and tried 6 degrees BTDC but I could be wrong. Either way, will give it a shot


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[Dox 23]

Strange cuffing noise points towards something being out?

[Popeye775 16]

Strange cuffing noise points towards something being out?

I will for sure give it a look!


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[Popeye775 16]

Strange cuffing noise points towards something being out?

Hi sir, compression checked today and it’s not looking promising. Last month the compression numbers were

120
130
120
130

Today they were

90
90
90
95

Both were done on cold motors.


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[Dox 23]

Sounds like its jumped teeth, retime and check again

[Popeye775 16]

Sounds like its jumped teeth, retime and check again

I will give that a look this weekend


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[Dox 23]

I seem to remember a G60 owner with similar issues reported that the charger had seized? Something else that would prevent the cylinders from filling

[Popeye775 16]

I seem to remember a G60 owner with similar issues reported that the charger had seized? Something else that would prevent the cylinders from filling

I do have a spare charger so I could throw that on and check that as well


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[Popeye775 16]

On 6/11/2020 at 12:04 PM, Dox said:

Sounds like its jumped teeth, retime and check again

Update sir, I set the timing to TDC and checked all of the gears. To which I found the intermediate shaft and the crank pulley timing marks no longer in line with each other. I have uploaded photos showing what I mean. In order to fix this, do I just need to rotate the crank pulley to line up with the arrow on the timing belt cover, and then rotate the intermediate shaft to line up with the mark on the crank pulley?

[Cressa 44]

I suppose that answers your compression and crap starting. Do you have the Bentley Manual?

[Popeye775 16]

I suppose that answers your compression and crap starting. Do you have the Bentley Manual?

Yes I do. I just cracked it open to find how to align the pulleys


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[Popeye775 16]

On 6/11/2020 at 12:15 PM, Dox said:

I seem to remember a G60 owner with similar issues reported that the charger had seized? Something else that would prevent the cylinders from filling

update: the charger was not seized, the timing was way out of wack, and the car starts again. Here is a sound clip of how it sounds. Tell me if anything sounds off, because that weird burbling noise was there before and that is the noise I am trying to get rid of.

 

Car while on

[Popeye775 16]

Update: the only thing to fix now is the misfire. I test drove it today after timing it with a timing light and it has an intermittent misfire under 2k rpm. I am going to change out the plugs again.

THINGS DONE:

Checked plug wires
Checked the fuel injectors are getting fuel
Checked coil
The car has a chip and adjustable pressure regulator that is at 3.5 bar

My question is could it be getting too much fuel? Should I try putting my stock pressure regulator back on and see what happens? It is running a 68mm supercharger pulley and stage 3 BBM chip. The cam is going in after this misfire is figured out.


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