VR keeps cutting out??

[vrev6II 0]

Hi guys,

 

Driving to work this morning my c just cut -out when i put my clutch in (temp was about 85) so i pulled over and started it again and it was fine...then, on my way back from work it cut-out once, I started it and it was ok for about 2 miles then when i put my clutch in it revved up to about 2000rpm twice all on its own and cut-out again?!?!? :(

 

Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions as to what could be causing this?

 

Thanks in advance :D

[vrev6II 0]

anyone?

[vr6storm 0]

could be the blue coolant temp sensor playing up.....under a tenner from your stealer and about 15mins and some coolant to fit

[dazzyvr6 0]

or the isv :?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

OK.....(this really ought to be stickied as it's so common)....

 

VR6 cutting out:-

 

Step 1: Get the engine scanned on a diag machine and look for fuel trim errors, MAF errors, throttle position sensor errors, Lambda probe and Idle stabilisation duty cycle errors. None present? Move to step 2. If any of the errors mentioned are present, replace parts as necessary. Also ensure the throttle's rest position is no greater than 14 degrees. Who ever does the scan will know how to check this.

 

Step 2: Remove intake tube and idle valve (under plastic cover - 8mm spline key required). Clean throttle body and ISV with carb cleaner.

 

Step 3: Make up two fly leads to connect to the battery. Connect the wires to the Idle valve and the other end of one wire to a battery terminal. Using the other flylead, pulse it on the other battery terminal 20 or so times. If the ISV's internal valve binds open or shut at any time. Replace the ISV. £90 to £100 from Euro car parts

 

Step 4: Looking at the back of the throttle body you will see a valve with orange rubber bellows and white plastic rod. This catches the throttle and lowers it gently to rest. They wear with age. To compensate it is adjustable. Get a 13mm spanner and slacken the nut holding it to the throttle body bracket. Now turn the "dashpot" up to apply more spring pressure to the throttle, but not too much or you'll force the throttle open out of tolerance. 4 or 5 turns should do it.

 

Step 5: Check all the hoses that are vacuum related (main intake tube, breather hose, brake servo hose, fuel pressure regulator hose etc) are not split and introducing unmetered air to the engine. The breather hose where it joins the main inlet hose is a favourite for splitting. The carbon caniser hoses that run alongside the airbox can also wear through.

 

An easy way to check for air leaks is to spray carb cleaner on all the hose joints, and change in engine note means the carb cleaner is being burnt and you've got an air leak.

 

Try that lot first and report back to us.

 

K

[Guest]

Alternative to step 3 - use VAG-COM or 155x 'Output Tests' to trigger the ISV (& the injectors & the carbon canister purge valve).