Changing Water Pump

[vwdubs 0]

My apologies in advance for not having found this in the forums already although I know it does exist in a cob webbed corner somewhere.

 

Can someone give me a quick run down on the quickest way to change both the Water Pump and Thermo, obviously same deal as they are connected.

 

Perhaps this should be in "How To"

[Henny 0]

It ain't exactly a quick job on a G60... :|

 

If no-one else has a write up, I'll try and do one from memory later on tonight when I get home... 8)

[vwdubs 0]

Hello Henny,

 

Cheers for the rapid response, I will be doing all the work during a planned holiday

in one weeks time so dont put yourself out for a response tonight although it would be greatly appreciated anytime within a week.

 

If the thermostat/water pump dont work im down to the rad or water leak (not that there is one)

 

Questions for you. The water pump fins are they plastic or metal? If plastic this could explain a bad flow problem resulting in overheating due to some fins being damaged.

[Henny 0]

the fins on the 4 cylinder car water pumps are metal...

 

Are you sure you need to do the pump? The thermostat is pretty easy to do on it's own (with housing!) 'cos you won't then have to take the charger off...

 

The only reasons I replaced my pump was 'cos I built a new engine (new pump 1) and then that pump hadn't been assembled properly from the factory so leaked (hence new pump 2)... Took me about 4 hours all in to do it IIRC, but a thermostat can be done in about an hour and a half... 8)

[vwdubs 0]

The problem remains temperature related although nothing points to anything directly anymore.

 

The car runs up to 115 water and about 115 oil after 10 mins either casual driving, motorway anything you name it.

 

It used to run at 95 water and about 95 oil ish before supercharger went and the fan and fan switch.

 

I have now changed for new, the fan, fan switch, the temperature sender (black switch), alternator, supercharger, tyres, brakes in I would say 2 months so far (jesus)

 

Notes: Water appears to be fine head gasket does not appear to be the problem, if i turn the heater on full heat it drops the temperature down to 95-100 within 10 mins, the top rad hose is hot and bottom and rad same temperature all over after about 10 minutes, presumably once thermo opens. The fan is coming on after Ignition is turned off and at 108 as per the switch details but not at a lower temperature and it doesnt seem to stay on for long.

 

Everything suggests waterpump and thermo are fine but there is definately poor circulation somewhere resulting in the water heating up, just thought **** it change everything whilst im at it, this car is staying in my hands for years to come.

[Henny 0]

just as an aside, have you tested the voltage getting to the fan? I found mine was only between 8 and 10 V which meant that it was coming on and looked OK, but was running no where near fast enough to cool the car properly...

 

Made up a quick'n'dirty relay loom similar to the headlight looms and now have a nice steady 12V at the fan which makes it spin soooooooooo much faster and has dropped the temps 10degrees! :shock: 8)

[g60bv 0]

take the rad off.(its quite easy. 4 x10mm bolt screws for the cowl, then just a drain down. flush the rad throu with a hose,.?? but it does look like every thing else has been done, and althou the water pumps are of metel cnstruction, theres nothing to say the wrong anti freeze has been used in the past, which could have resulted in corrotion to the pump shaft.?? :roll:

[jmuggali 0]

someone with the same problem as me :) (sorry)mine has had every thing changed so far (and I mean everything expansion tank, cap x2 fan switch x2.....) other than the water pump and head, had a compression test and all was well so it's the water pump next, the walk through changing it would also be very helpfull. Mine has been sat in the garage so long I took it for an MoT and most of the bushes had perished and split !! :(

[Henny 0]

have you checked the voltage at the fan jmuggali??? Seriously guys... think about it, a 2v drop to the motor is gonna mean that your fan is gonna be spinning 1/6th slower (assuming a normal DC motor linear speed-voltage relationship)

 

That's gonna mean that your car is DEFINATELY gonna get hotter than it should... and all for the sake of a couple of relays and some wire... ;)

 

I'll still write up a quick how to seeing as it's reasonably fresh in my mind... all I'm saying is don't discount the REALLY simple things before jumping to a conclusion... ;) 8)

[vwdubs 0]

I am pretty sure me and Steve at PitStop checked the vaultage but I will definately check this again, I am almost 99% sure mine is the flow of the collant relating to pressure/thermo/waterpump/slightly blocked rad.

 

As always guys thanks alot for your help so far.

 

The problem with analysing temperature problems is that it can be caused by so many damn things and could be different for everyone, always best to start with the cheapest which I have done and work from that as a wise man once said;

 

I'll still write up a quick how to seeing as it's reasonably fresh in my mind... all I'm saying is don't discount the REALLY simple things before jumping to a conclusion...

[jmuggali 0]

Tried all the simple things (beeing very simple myself :D ) Had a new rad, new hoses expansion tank and cap, thermostat, both temp sensors and the switch in the rad, fan works fine kicks in both speeds. My last job I will attempt is the water pump then if all fails the head gets pressure tested although compresion was good, my car must have the newest cooling system about, bets the big end goes as soon it's fixed.

[Si B 0]

The sort of temps you are getting are not unusual for a G60 Corrado. Mine used to run at about 130 until I fitted an oil cooler (it now runs at a steady 100). Most of this temp is generated by the charger and it is possible that your new charger is the cause of this extra heat. It will be putting out more boost (better seals) and more boost = more compressed air and thus more temp and the seals and bearings are likely to be tighter than on the tired old unit thus causing higher temps.

 

Are you running with an oil cooler?

[Supercharged 2]

The sort of temps you are getting are not unusual for a G60 Corrado. Mine used to run at about 130 until I fitted an oil cooler (it now runs at a steady 100). Most of this temp is generated by the charger and it is possible that your new charger is the cause of this extra heat. It will be putting out more boost (better seals) and more boost = more compressed air and thus more temp and the seals and bearings are likely to be tighter than on the tired old unit thus causing higher temps.

 

Yup, mine usual running temp has gone up 6 degrees since the Stage 4 rebuild, chip and 68mm pulley despite the mocal cooler! More power=more heat generated

[vwdubs 0]

I would almost agree with you but not now after a quick business trip down the road, after driving 5 miles the car got up to 115 on the water and 126 on the oil and then stayed around that temperature give or take 2deg with the coolant light flashing its pretty eye at me.

 

I can see what you are saying as I expected the changes ie new alt and s/c to generate higher temperature but it has changed so dramatically that it is definately something else as well.

 

Probably best to wait for Hennys Water Pump change guide and once all of this is done I will take a look at other options, I might as well change this whilst im on holiday next week and the thermo.

 

I dont run an oil cooler as yet but that would not drop the water temp that much would it or does it?

[Henny 0]

if you run with a mocal oil cooler you'd drop BOTH your oil and water temps as it's the standard heat exchanger (oil cooler to most people) which causes quite a bit of the water's temp...

 

I dumped the standard cooler entirely and replaced the pipework with standard VW golf pipes which don't have the take-offs for the cooler in them, then put in a 16row Mocal mounted where the standard intercooler used to be... I now run with water temps of between 70 and 90 (seen it above 90 briefly around Curborough!) and oil temps tend to be around 85 to 95... I've only had the oil above 100 a couple of times even with the recent warmer outside temps and one of them was at Curborough again 'cos I was thrashing the nuts off the car at the time (see avatar! ;) )

 

The Mocal is one of the best engine life pro-longing devices you can get... dropping the oil temps makes the engine more efficient as well as helping preserve it's bearings and moving internals... 8)

 

The only thing I'm slightly worried about is trying to get some heat into the heater for winter, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it! :lol: May be time to buy a thermal coat! :lol:

[vwdubs 0]

Henny,

 

Any idea on costs involved in this, I am sure the old man has all the piping lieing about in his garage or knows

of somewhere, the 16 row Mocal is that mega expensive and what car is it off?, and how long is involved in replacing it, would a day cover the job/two?

 

Cheers in advance Henny, I will buy ya a drink if u r up at N'hampton in a couple of weeks

[dr_mat 0]

Surely the water temp shouldn't drop below 80.. or did you put a low temp thermostat in, Henny?

[W3RKD 0]

if you remove the charger an oil cooler kit should take no longet than 2 hrs to fit.. :-P

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Maybe we should mask over the temperature numbering on the guage and just go by 1/4, half way and 3/4, then red as per older Golfs :?

 

I think some people just get a bit neurotic about the temperatures because they can see them on the guage, not that it's accurate anyway....

[Henny 0]

Henny,

 

Any idea on costs involved in this, I am sure the old man has all the piping lieing about in his garage or knows

of somewhere, the 16 row Mocal is that mega expensive and what car is it off?, and how long is involved in replacing it, would a day cover the job/two?

 

Cheers in advance Henny, I will buy ya a drink if u r up at N'hampton in a couple of weeks

The mocal oil cooler is an aftermarket cooler which is designed to be fitted to any car which they have the take-off plate for to allow it to be plumbed in... 8) I seem to remember my kit was about £130 all in, but that could have changed by now and it was a while ago so I may have got that figure slightly out... :oops:

 

As daz says (G-man) you should be able to fit one in a couple of hours... 8)

 

I got the full oil cooler kit from John Mitchell (16VG60) but I know that G-man also can get 'em... You can get just the parts from http://www.ThinkAuto.co.uk 8)

 

Surely the water temp shouldn't drop below 80.. or did you put a low temp thermostat in, Henny?

nope, Thinking about it I think my gauge is just a bit crap! :lol: :oops: I'll have to rig up a proper gauge and see what the real temps are... :roll: :lol: Thanks for pointing that out, I hadn't thought about that before... :oops: :lol:

[dr_mat 0]

Sounds like it's just reading 10 degrees under... So you're sitting at between 80 and 100, just like everyone elses...