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MarkGolf

No point going from 2.9 - 3.0..

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Talking with a few people today, and they made apoint after some calculations, that there is sooo little difference going from a 2.9 - 3.0 that there would be hardly any difference..

So the money could be spent doing other stuff like a quaiffe LSD, Chip and re-map and other lil bits such as a Turn 2 pulley e.t.c...

 

As VR6 engine enthusiasts/tuners, what are your oppinions?

 

Im now thinking, instead of getting the forged pistons I was due to, with a turn2 crank pulley..

Just get the crank pulley and spend half the money I was goin to by getting new bearings throughout and other bottom end renewal parts on getting the engine properly mapped and an LSD..

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I think Guy Hartley might disagree with you there! He's got a 3.0 Supercharged..... 312 bhp!

 

A shorter final drive would make a nice change on any size VR though....

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I thought the main reason that people went up to 3.0 was because their bores needed rescuing and it was the only way to do it?

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I agree. There's no real point in going out to 3.0 unless you are saving a trashed 2.9 lump.

 

If you are wanting to do big power gains with a VR6 the best starting point nowadays is probably a 24v lump - especially if you are considering forced induction at a later date.

 

John

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Only reason I got the block bored to just under 3.0 was because it was shagged, and I preferred to get the original block reworked rather than get another block and possibly inheret other compatibility problems.

 

This has probably been asked plenty of times but can a 24v head fit the 12v block? Are they variable valve timing aswell?

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Agreed, 24V is the way forward but a 12V in good health is still a formidable machine.

 

You have to hear a V6 4 Motion or R32..... they pick up a lot quicker and sound so much crisper and tighter mechanically.

 

Anyway.... no a 24V head won't fit a 12V block and yep the R32 has variable timing, as do late V6 4Motions. Variable inlet tuning too......

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Mark as stated in a PM to you.. If you are saving a loose 2.9 block.. JE 83mm pistons are the way to go. They are suited for the added cyl pressures and heat of forced induction. Check your bore tolerences and we'll discuss from there. A proper big valve head with p/p done with a flow bench combined with schrick 268's/springs is a wise upgrade if you plan to stay n/a for awhile. Otherwise, go get the SC kit now.. get used to the power and then do the cyl head. That is unless you are due for a cyl head rebuild. Vr's are very picky about tolerences, they are only happy if they are within the OEM specifications.

 

R

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Yellowslc, slightly OT, but what is your opinion on stiffer valve springs with the 268 cams? Schrick say they are a must - and they would as they're £200 - but my *very* trusted and experienced mechanic says he's fitted loads of 268s with standard springs and never seen a snapped spring or any other adverse affects.

 

I don't plan on spending all day at 7000rpm, so is the need for stiffer springs really justified?

 

Thought I'd ask you as you seem to know your stuff with VRs 8)

 

Cheers

K

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