emax

Any idea as to what else they'll be testing (apart from the 172 Clio)?

I wonder what the VR will be up against? I'd guess at: Integra Type R 306 GTI-6/Rallye or maybe a 205 GTI I wonder if they'll include any older stuff like the Alfasud or the original Mini Cooper!

Storm Warning, how fresh is your suspension? Is it original on that mileage?? Hopefully whatever car goes forward has a relatively fresh setup. Cheers and enjoy if you do go along!

Yes, heard that it makes the 4 cylinder cars sound quite a bit louder but I (and other owners) have found it to be quite a subtle difference on the VR6.

That doesn't sound right. The Magnex system shouldn't be much louder than standard. How loud are you talking and where in the rev range is it noisy?

Thanks for that, will give it a try. Cheers, Euan.

Hi there, I've had a strange problem with my car for quite a while now and am wondering if it's anything to worry about. Normally, when I check my coolant level on the car, it's sitting 1-2cm below the Min marker on the expansion tank. If I top it up to the MAX marker and then drive it for a couple of weeks, it always ends up back below the MIN marker again. If I've been lazy and not checked it for ages, it never seems to drop any further than 1-2cm below after quickly dropping down to that level. Any ideas as to what might be causing this? Thanks!

The 268's will give you a bit more power at the top end whch explains your higher figures. Mine is running the standard cams and the rolling road figures were done on my aging standard exhaust and the standard airbox. With the Magnex and the CDA, it might be putting out a bit more, who knows! Although RR figures aren't 100% accurate. Where was your car dyno'd?

Keeping the cold air feed on, definitely. Sounds nice without the feed and still more quiet than a 57i or something but I'd still call it pretty loud. The cold air feed brings it back down to almost standard, at least at low-mid revs (even under full throttle). I might shorten the air feed slightly as the pipe is rather long and I'm worried about it sucking up water if I hit a massive puddle. I guess this will bring the volume back up (hopefully only slightly).

As I said, fitted the cold air feed last night. Made a huge difference to the volume levels and it really isn't much above the standard airbox now. You can hear it a little bit more above 3,500rpm or so but it's in no way intrusive. It definitely seems to have given the car a bit more punch across the rev range too!

Just fitted the cold air feed in my lunch break. Couldn't believe the size of the Carbon Cannister and now understand why Kev said that between the Rad and Headlight is a good place for it! For now, I've removed it and joined the two hoses together. Haven't had the chance to take it for a run yet but it starts and runs fine with no helecoptor sound-effects thankfully! Looking forward to the drive home tonight!

OK, fitted the BMC last night without the cold air feed. Quite a bit louder than I thought it'd be but it does sound nice! There is a change in induction noise at around 4,000rpm (presumably where the Shrick's flap opens). It's only really properly loud when the revs are over 4k. Feels a bit quicker throughout the rev range but I'll probably do an ECU Reset/Basic Settings just to be fussy. So, does it quieten down quite a bit when the cold air feed goes on? Lovely noise anyway, much more civilised than the old ITG cone that came with the car. kevHaywire, is there any disadvantage to re-positioning the CC under the BMC itself rather than between the headlight and the rad as you suggested? Looks like there is plenty of room under there and it'd save lengthening the tubes to the CC. Just a thought. Cheers.

I used to have a GT (1.8 90bhp) and it was a good car. Performance isn't obviously in the same league as the corrado but it is quicker than you'd give it credit for thanks to the fact it is a lot lighter than a Corrado. It was quite torquey in its delivery but mine seemed to run out of puff by about 5,500rpm; not much point in pushing it to the red line. Very smooth, linear delivery though. Gear ratios are quite short which helps the acceleration quite a bit. Handling was very good but the brakes were utterly terrifying and felt like they belonged on a BMX bike. If you go to see it, try to see how it runs when started from cold. The standard pierburg carb can be a nightmare and mine wouldn't idle at all until it had warmed up a bit - a common problem I believe. Many owners go for a weber conversion.

Thanks for the tip Kev, I'll get hold of some tubing tomorrow.

Just ordered mine today from Stealth. Should arrive tomorrow. Will have a go at relocating the CC tonight (although not sure where the best place to relocate it to is (... off to the search engine!).

Same here, definitely interested in a group buy as well. Keep me posted.

Excellent, thanks for the advice guys!

Might be a silly question this! I took my ITG induction cone off my car after a few months of ownership back in 2002. I was thinking of putting it back on for a day just out of curiosity. IT's an ITG cone, the foam type, and it hasn't been oiled since I put it away. It was packed in a plastic bag. Should it be ok to stick it back on (just for a day) without re-oiling it? Don't like the thought of damaging the engine if the filter isn't doing its job!

Anyone in the central belt of Scotland got a BMC fitted? I wouldn't mind having a listen. When I bought my car, it had an ITG cone on it which was far too loud for my tastes! If this is just a little louder than standard, I might be swayed!

Yes, it's a VAG pump that they've fitted so seemingly no supply problems up here anyway. Looking forward to getting it back. Typically, 1hr before it died, I was chatting to my mate (who was with me on the drive) about how well the car was running at the moment! That's what I get for tempting fate eh?!!!!

Now solved! Verified that the wiring was ok by bridging the relay with a paperclip and checking for volts. Everything was looking ok from the wiring end but I couldn't get anything from the pump so I "gave up" and let Star Performance pick it up. Turns out it was the pump itself after all, they changed the relay too. Thanks to all for your suggestions/advice ;-)

He just pulled the pipe off. I guess there could have been a small amount of pressure left over which could have been just enough to send some fuel out of the pump??

Hi folks, Well, I think I'm a bit further on with this now. Firstly, I don't have a '167' relay. In its place, I have a relay with the number '80' on it. VAG part number: 191 906 383 (without the "C" or anything else). I cleaned this up with the contact cleaner and repositioned it. Still no joy. Pulled the cover for the fuel pump and checked the wiring (using a piece of unpainted bodywork where the screws for the cover go as the ground) and was only getting 0.02 volts. The pump was completely silent as well. I couldn't source a suitable length of wire to bridge the relay connectors in the fuse box but I took a voltage reading across them and was getting 12 volts there. I take it that given these findings, I'm safe to conclude that it is the fuel pump relay? Thanks to everyone for your help/suggestions so far, appreciated as always!!

RW1, Thanks very much for the pics. I _DEFINITELY_ don't have a 167 in the bottom-right slot! Can't remember what the number was on that relay though either. I'll return to the car tomorrow and clean that relay and report what is actually in that slot. Looks like someone in the past as sustituted the 167 for something else. Thanks for this, and the pointers as to where to find the fuel pump connectors, brilliant!

Update: It was dark when I got to the car and I had no torch on me (had to use the mobile!). I cleaned relay 109 but couldn't see a 167 in the fuse box anywhere? I can't find the owner's manual to check the correct positions for the relays but I noticed that there were several 53 relays (could these have been substitutions for other relays)? Two of these 53's were side-by-side underneath relay 18. The third seemed to be plugged into something above the main relay board. I also noticed a blue connector that wasn't connected to anything hanging from above the main relay board?? I cleaned the pins on the 109 and all the 53 relays and tried to restart the car. First turn of the starter and the car spluttered as if it was trying to start but after that, it was completely dead. Too dark to double-check the fuel pump itself. How do I get access to this (or its connector to check for voltage). In the boot somewhere? Any more suggestions are greatly appreciated!