emax

Hi stevemac, yes, just the switch, nothing else.

I have had my car rolling roaded twice since I have owned it and have a dyno plot from AmD with the previous owner. At AmD, the car made 199bhp and 199lb/ft IIRC I had the car rolling roaded (not at AmD and pre-schrick + remap) it made 192.5bhp and 183lb/ft and 158bhp at the wheels. on the same rolling road, after the remap and schrick, it was up to 209bhp and 196lb/ft but the "at the wheels" figure only increased by 3.5bhp to 161.5bhp. I find it interesting that, despite a significant increase in the "flywheel" figure of 16.5bhp, the increase "at the wheels" was only 3.5bhp. I don't know how the "at the flywheel" figure is derived to be honest but I don't think it is worth the paper it is printed on.

Thanks for that stevemac I've got the bentley here but can't seem to find the procedure in here. I was looking under section 28.x and 27.x but couldn't see it, unless they refer to the ignition switch under a different name?

Is this the same procedure as for a 1994 VR does anyone know? I'm due to get my ignition switch replaced by a local garage and he says that it will either be a 30 min job or a 2 hour job depending on the type of switch/layout in my car. I'm just trying to work out if this sounds reasonable.

Another way to look at it is what is the "at the wheel" figures that you got? Does the difference at the wheel look right when compared with the difference "at the flywheel"? Here is an interesting articles about rolling roads: http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/trans.htm http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/setup01.htm

Thanks Roddy. Even if they do catch them, most likely they'll just be kids anyway so not likely to have any money to pay for new tyres. When my Sierra was nicked, they caught the guys but I never got anything back for that (car was written off). I have shortlisted to the following: Bridgestone RE720: Black Circle: £84.31 (fitted) Mytyres.co.uk: £56.90 Goodyear Eagle F1 (GSD2): mytyres.co.uk: £69.40 Toyo Proxies T1-S: mytyres.co.uk: £44.40 Yoko AVS Sport: topgear.co.uk: £66.65 Continential PremiumContact mytyres: £62.40 Mitchelin Pilot Sport: mytyres: £92.20 I'm not on a budget, I just want the best wet/dry tyres available. Any thoughts, much appreciated. Cheers, Euan.

Thanks guys, The reason I still park in that street is because there isn't really anywhere else to park here. Also, crime generally is very low here (I don't think that any cars have been stolen since then here) so you could say that I'm unlucky!!! Anyone know of any mobile tyre-fitting companies that are any good? I had the police man around, he was really good but, admittedly, there isn't a heck of a lot they can do without catching the guy. I'm also wondering if it is a good/bad idea to re-use my driver's side tyres on the same axle (either front or back). I have a Toyo Proxy and a Goodyear Eagle F1, both with good tread left. Any thoughts?? Thanks for the responses so far. Euan.

Hi there, Not going to get involved in a huge rant here but just went out to my car to find that some delightful chap(s) have cut my tyres. They did both passenger side tyres which is a pain as I'll have to replace all four (to keep the tread equal on both sides...). There was lots of tread left, especially on the rears but I guess that's life. This happened only yards from the spot where I had my Ford Sierra stolen about 3.5 years ago!! Here are some pics: The question now is what tyres to replace them with? I've had Bridgestone S-02's in the past (excellent), SO-3's (not so impressed) and currently have Toyo Proxies on the front and Goodyear Eagle F1's on the back. Any specific recommendations? I was going to go for either the Toyo's all round or F1's. Can you get the GSD3's in the speedline size?? I went to mytyres.co.uk and they only have the GSD2's. What's the difference? Any good mobile fitting companies anyone can recommend as I can't exactly take the car anywhere with "two" flat tyres! Have a good weekend everyone, Euan.

"The only snag now is the engine really feels like it needs the 268 cams Next year maybe.... " Glad you're enjoying it Kev. I'd heard that fitting the cams with the schrick can negatively effect the low down torque in trade-off for more top end. I might well be wrong though!! Perhaps someone who has experienced a car with the schrick with and without the cams can comment... I also notice that you say yours kicks at 3,500k? Maybe each car is different (and mine has been remapped too) but I get that Low Pressure Turbo-like feel from just over 3k (maybe ~ 3,100rpm). Still, the manifold is a superb mod eh?! :D Glad to hear that you're enjoying it.

Karmann, No, I think you are thinking of the 106 Rallye which came originally as a 1.4 (later as a 1.6) with white wheels IIRC. It is meant to be a superb drive, as is the 306 Rallye. I haven't driven either but read any reviews of either car and they rate very highly indeed. I did drive a 306 2.0 xsi about 6 years ago and was impressed with the handling. I'd imagine the Rallye version would be a bit of a weapon and a close match for a VR6 on a twisty B road if both drivers were of similar ability. Euan '94 VR6

Looks like the guage panel has been obseleted as of the 18th March. I had some on order and they had run out of stock. They put in a request to the manufacturer to make another 10 or so but the manufacturer declined. Anyone with some gauges to sell, give me a shout as I'll make you a very good offer for them. The only other option I was thinking of was to arrange a group buy. If we could get enough guaranteed orders, perhaps we could approach VW with a bulk order and it might be make more economic sense for them to get them made up?? Cheers, Euan.

Hi Kev, The flat spot certainly isn't a problem. I found myself irritated by the lack of low-down shove and that is the reason why I bought the manifold. I don't even notice the switchover point unless I'm really looking out for it... I was going to ask Star to RR the car, fit the manifold and do another RR, chip the car and do another RR but in the end I didn't. I wish I had now as it would have helped others see the true benefits (or not) of chipping the car with this mod. I bought my manifold off John Webster and he didn't have his car chipped but still reaped the benefits of the VSR without it. I think, as has been said elsewhere in this thread that the only difference is that this "flat-spot" is more pronounced. My car had an AmD re-map before I had the manifold fitted (through the last owner) but I had this re-done by Star Performance when they fitted the manifold. The bottom line is, I doubt that any of you guys with your name on the list for a manifold will regret it, it is an excellent mod and the prices Vince has got on the buy look very reasonable indeed. Cheers, Euan. PS: Those of you getting your car re-mapped, ask if you can get the old chip with your existing ECU map back. That way, if you punt the VSR on when you eventually sell the car, you can get someone to put the original engine map back in place.

The so-called "flat spot" isn't that major at all. It is just when the Butterfly valve switches, the manifold resumes the profile of the standard unit and the torque rolls off back to the original curve. It's not like the engine stops pulling, you just feel a slight (and very short-lived) reduction in power when the switchover point is reached. Then, as the engine comes on cam, the top end is just as strong as before. To be honest, it isn't really that noticeable at all. As others say though, you'll seldom stretch the engine beyond 4,000 or 4,500 unless you want to hear the sound-effects at the top of the rev range or want to extract every last ounce of power from the engine. Cheers, Euan. '94 VR6 with Schrick manifold + remap

Check the breather hoses. I have had exactly the problem that AndyVR6 and Kevhaywire describe. I tried a load of things like getting the ISV cleaned, ECU Resets, new plugs, leads etc.etc... Turned out to be a leaking breather hose. So, before going out and spending money on expensive parts, carefully check the hoses first. HTH, Euan.

Heh! Sorry mate!! I guess that's the way it goes sometimes eh? A good bet would be to contact Niko to see if he will source one for you. He seems to have good contacts. Email me privately and I'll pass on his address. Cheers, Euan.

Hi there. Just had the Schrick VSR inlet manifold fitted to my VR6 and am very impressed so far!!! I did kind of know what to expect; more torque everywhere basically but the mid-range acceleration is fantastic and the whole character of the car has been transformed by this mod. I had it fitted on Thursday and got the car back on Friday. Decided to take a trip up to Lochearnhead, Killin, Loch Tay, Loch Tummel etc.etc... to try the car out on some decent back roads. You can make real progress without ever going above 4000rpm which, on a long-distance charge, can only be a good thing for the engine's longevity! It's maybe not the cheapest modification you can carry out on the VR6 but it is definitely worthwhile IMO. Here are some before and after figures from my car. Before figures - March 2003: 192.5bhp @ 5730rpm 183lb/ft @ 4570rpm After figures - September 2003 (had Schrick manifold fitted and re-chip) 209bhp @ 5880rpm 196lb/ft @ 3940rpm What these figures don't show is that the torque is available over a much greater rev-range. Euan.