emax

Thanks for the reply Kev, When I say running on 4 cylinders, I mean that initially 4 cylininders catch and within another couple of seconds all 6 catch. I had a coil pack go on me a couple of years ago and the car started to run on 4 constantly. Having said that, I did replace the coil with a cheap 2nd hand one. Leads are blue igniters, about 2 years or 20,000miles old. Like I say, the car certainly seems to be running well when warmed up. Although, occasionally it can be hesitant below 2,000, particularly when cold.

Hi there, I've been hearing a funny 'crackling' sound on my car when accelerating hard through 3,000rpm. It maybe only persists between 3,000 and 3,250rpm and only under full throttle. These revs also coincide with the Schrick giving its boost to the torque and I'm wondering if the two are related at all? It is a hard noise to describe but a faint (from inside the car) crackling sound is probably the most accurate description. I don't think it has anything to do with the dreaded timing chain or tensioners as my car had them replaced at around 75,000 and we're now on 108,000. Star Performance also checked my chains recently and said that they were fine. Any ideas? Euan.

Hi there, Using the car a lot less at the moment and I'm noticing that the car isn't liking being left for sometimes up to a week without use. If I start the car after 5 or more days, she's reluctant to fire and the other day, seemed to be firing on maybe only 4 cylinders initially. A prod of the throttle didn't even see all 6 catch for a couple of seconds (revs didn't rise for the first couple of secs either). Once all 6 fire up though, there are no further problems and the car is running very well just now (certainly not down on power). Ever since I've owned it, the car has always taken at least 1-2 secs on the starter to fire and I remember reading in older posts that this can be down to dirty injectors? Do my other starting symptoms indicate this? If so, am I best to get the injectors ultrasonically cleaned or buy new ones? The car has now done 108,000 and I'm guessing is still on its original injectors. The car is due its MOT on the 10th (same day my son is due to be born!) and I'm booking it into Star Performance so I'd like to decide in advance whether I get them to replace/refurbish the injectors. Obviously I'll get the plugs checked at the same time (platinum jobs - been on car for 8,000 miles).

Yes, the S2000 is a closer bet than the peak figures would suggest on paper. I had a similar experience. But look at the power/torque and where it arrives: 240@8300 ( bhp / rpm ) 153@7500 ( lb / ft ) So, the car only produces any significant go if the revs are up in the VTEC zone. It must be pretty easy to get caught out with the engine off the boil if you weren't ready. Never encountered an RX8 but, again, quite a peaky engine which wouldn't come near a VR in terms of flexibility: 231@8200 ( bhp / rpm ) 155@5500 ( lb / ft )

Yep. I have a friend with a Fiat 20V and have driven it on a number of occasions, I can confirm that it would definitely leave the VR (even schrick'd up) on a straight road. It delivers more torque but, more importantly from much lower down (228lb/ft at just 2,500rpm!). The VR has a definite advantage through the corners though. biggerbigneil, if you have first-hand experience of beating a Fiat Coupe, the driver either wasn't trying or the car was the non-turbo version!

Looks really smart mate. You'll have to bring it down to the next RR day :?

Which again in a FWD car, you probably wouldn't want to go much over that figure anyway if you wanted the car to remain driveable? I wouldn't dream of swapping my VR for any 4 pot engine - if I felt the urge to have a more powerful car, I'd buy something else. Blue Nothelle? (aka Glenn Cooper unless I'm mistaken?). How's the VR coming along? Been on the track yet with it? If it's you, thanks again last year for your help in diagnosing/resolving my stalling problem :wink:

It was more the "incredibly" cheap to fix quote that got me started :wink:

I thought it was a rather poor article. They didn't really go into much detail into how the cars drive and clearly didn't have a lot of knowlege of the cars they were testing. My favourite quote has to be: "Pass to the Germans and it's the Volkswagen Corrado which will offer the greatest peace of mind. Little goes wrong and if it does it's usually incredibly cheap to fix." ROFL

Not seen this in the shops yet. How did the Corrado fair against the competition?

Thanks Supercharged. Can the solenoid be replaced seperately or am I looking at a new starter motor?

My car has the same problem. I just had the ignition switch replaced last week on my VR to cure a starting problem: Basically, the car would start fine on most occasions but after a long drive when everything heats up, you turn the key to the start position and nothing happens. The lights on the dash come on but the starter won't turn. It happened again yesterday so I had to bump start the car which I hate doing as I've heard that it isn't a good idea with the VR engine. I'll need to check the wiring and I suppose the ignition relay. Any other suggestions before I go for the starter motor next? Where would I find the ignition relay switch? If the starter is not turning, could this still be the culprit? Thanks.

I did see the funny side of it. But it was really scary waking up being glued to the table!!! Just goes to show that drinking and car maintenance do NOT mix :wink:

The panel filter simply replaces the paper filter inside the airbox. It will supposedly provide a slight increase in power over the paper filter. I have never run the car with the standard filter so I can't testify to this. Induction noise is also said to increase very slightly. An induction cone on the other hand can be quite civilised so long as you have a light right foot but bury the throttle and the car will make a *lot* of noise, especially as the revs climb over 4,000rpm. I guess it depends on what you are looking for out of the car. When I bought my car, it had an ITG induction cone on it. I thought it was great but then the novelty wore off after a couple of months and it started to get on my t^ts. The previous owner also supplied the std airbox but it had been modified by drilling large holes in the bottom half. I decided to fill the holes using fibreglass one night after I'd been out at the pub. On waiting for the fibreglass to set, I fell asleep and glued my hands (luckily in gloves) to the table and my head missed the resin by a fraction!! Could have been a total disaster!!! Anyway, enough digressing. I noticed no performance loss at all when switching from the cone to the panel filter. Others claim to notice a slight difference but it wasn't apparent on my car. The car runs much more smoothly and idles a lot better too (although not perfectly).

How loud is it? Induction cone loud or much the same as std?

Not found this article yet. How did the C fair against the others???

I've been following this thread for a while as I think my OEM system is starting to blow. I don't want an exhaust that is much louder than OEM and am swaying towards the Magnex as it would seem to be the more subtle system of the two. I have heard from someone (not on this list) that the Magnex fit on the VR isn't the best. That opinion doesn't seem to tally with the views expressed here. Any comments?

Thanks again guys, esp Henny and Stevemac. I picked up the car today and the bill wasn't as bad as I thought. 1.5 hours, still a little high but, not 5 hours high! The junior mechanic panicked me yesterday when he said that they've been working on it for "most of the day". Considering the wallet damage isn't as bad as expected, and everything else that's going on just now (house move, baby on the way) , I don't think I'll persue this any further. Thanks for the advice guys.

Thanks again guys. I can confirm that my car is not an auto and it definitely has an adjustable steering column so it has to be the same as other cars. I'm going to be seeing him tomorrow (accompanied with a printout of the instructions) and will get the full story from there. thanks again for all the help/advice.

Thanks for the advice Henny, I'll do just that. I wish I had left the instructions in the car when I dropped it off but I didn't want to patrionise the bloke!!

Hi Henny, if the switch is the same that's one thing, is there a different ignition layout between models/years? That is what they're claiming. Is there anything I can do if they have ripped me off? For example, if they charge me 5 hrs labour, can I take it elsewhere to have a report on the work done to assess if there has been any foul play? Also, is there any authoritative body in the motor trade that any incidents should be reported to?

Hi there, Firstly thanks to stevemac and the rest for the instructions when I posted about ignition switch replacement a while back. In the end I put it into the garage yesterday to get it done purely because my girlfriend is late on in her pregnancy and I didn't want the car to let me down etc + I have enough to worry about with all that, and a house move next tuesday. I told the mechanic that I'd been on the forum and that it was a 20 min job to replace when I dropped it off - I wish now that I had tried to do it myself: I just called and got his junior mechanic (he was apparently out at the time). Apparently, they've been working on it most of the day and it has been a b****rd of a job. The car isn't ready but will be ready for collection tomorrow morning. The guy says that there are two types of ignition layouts on the Corrado and mine was the more complex one seemingly. Firstly, is this true? My car is a 1994 VR6? Secondly, if this guy has ripped me off, is there anything I can do? For example. an engineer's report looking at the work done and assessing how long it should have taken? Who would I go to to dispute this anyway? If it was incompetence on the part of the garage and not a blatant attempt to rip me off, do I take this on the chin or what? I'd appreciate any thoughts that people have on this, particularly into the issue of there potentially being two different types of ignition switch and all that. I'll never use my local mechanic again on the basis of this. I would have gone to Star Performance but because of everything else going on and because I didn't think that an ignition switch would trouble a standard mechanic, I took it somewhere local. Any help much appreciated.

A Ur-quattro 20v would fall into your budget?

Thanks a lot guys, sounds pretty easy so I might even give it a stab myself rather than fork out for the mechanic to do it. Cheers.

kevhaywire, Are you running on the standard paper filter or a K & N panel?? I'm sure I heard that the standard exhaust is relatively free-flowing anyway, can anyone confirm this? My car is on its original exhaust but when it dies, I'm not after a loud exhaust. I was even thinking of an OEM system again as they seem to last for 10 years! Either that or a Magnex. Ideally a free-flowing exhaust without the extra decibels...