kevinbowe2000

Ta for the advice guys. Guess I'll start searching for 16s and 17s then. Really like the wider rear look. Can you think of any nice 16s or 17s that are deep dish. Something similar to fm10s?

I'm currently looking at getting new alloys. Need three new tires so thought might as well get new alloys now instead of forking out for new tires that I won't use much. Really like the ISS FM10's but no way can afford them. Looking at close to £1000 a corner. [ATTACH]77591[/ATTACH] Was looking at 18 inch cades Tyrus black with wider rear. [ATTACH]77592[/ATTACH] As much more affordable but not a clue if they make reliable alloys. Any ideas? Front are 8x18 and rear 9x18. ET35. Think I would need spacers and/or flare arches? 5x100 as going on vr6. Can anyone think of a better option? I really love BBS CH-R design. Want them but deep dish.

hadnt even looked at the cost of them til you said it. Ta Jim. How on earth are they so pricey. Well that solves that issue. Might just do the expansion tank to make the bay look a bit nicer.

Between the work carried out on the car by previous owner and myself, the cooling system has nearly been totally renewed. New rad, heater matrix, thermostat, electrical fan switch, flush and coolant. New water pump on its way (hopefully next weeks job) so wondering if it would be over kill just to complete the system and do new aux pump + expansion tank at the same time. Coolant hoses are a bit pricey for me at the moment, so leaving them as they are. System will be drained so thought it would be a good idea just to finish the job. Any thoughts?

Ta for info. Just rang local TPS but £151 :( Think i'll just buy an extra set of blades from germany as it is cheaper than buying a single wiper blade here for some unknown reason. Comes to £115 delivered so still saves me a bit.

Rang round and best price was just shy of £150 for arms and blades which I couldn't face paying. Tried breakers and eBay but no real luck. Breakers were looking for 40 an arm which is insane used. Email guys in Germany and getting a much better price (circa £100 delivered) but they are saying that "The number 8N2955425E includes both sides of blades". Know I need two driver side wiper arms. Would assume that both blades in the pack are the same, but just want to make sure. Do I need two driver side wiper blades, or are they the same on both sides?

would like to know aswell. Didnt think the RX8 front seats folded to allow access to the back seats though, did they?

Vr6 no emblem please

Dox, any idea how to contact the person who fitted those mirrors or who owns the car now to back track to whoever fitted them?

Been looking at getting these DTM Mirrors [ATTACH=CONFIG]77322[/ATTACH] Loads of them on Ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160683882028?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 I cant find anyone that supplies base plates for a corrado though. Someone in the states said they got them but that was back in 2008, and someone on here called something like "Flushed" said they used ford focus ones but he hasnt been active since 2010 so cant ask him. Wondering if anyone has installed them with ford focus or lupo or passat or golf base plates etc? Kev

Decided today at lunch to start from scratch with the problem and test everything. Naturally first point of call the fuse board. Took off the panel and low and behold, only 4 fuses in the fuse board. Couldn't believe it. Not 1 or 2 but 3 different mechanics have looked at this car including one that put it through the MOT. No fuse in the rad fan so naturally it wouldn't come on. Ordered a bunch of new fuses so fit them tomorrow. Played around with the ones that I did have and sure enough, fan stage 1 and 2 came on when i had a fuse in it. Think that the original issue was that no fuse so no cooling. Caused coolant to steam and then air lock. Going to get it professionally bleed when i get the new fuses in it as I don't think my job was that great. Still think there is an air lock in the rad. Learnt my lesson anyway. Don't presume that professionals will check the most basic of things that could cause the issue. On a side note, put a fuse in for the spoiler and it went up fine. But very slow coming down and then blow the fuse. Guessing some blockage in it? Take it apart and grease it or is there something I might be missing. Put in 15 amp fuse as thats what it says in the manual. Should it be a larger fuse or is that correct. Second guessing everything now. Looking better and better that it isnt the HG though. Thank you everyone for all the input into this issue. Has helped a lot.

Should I see some coolant flow into the expansion tank when the aux pump is working?

Thanks for the tip Owens. The first question I asked both the aa guy and the garage was about the expansion tank cap. Both said it wasn't the issue. Never checked myself though so will do that tomorrow morning before work. Thanks for the offer easypops. Might take you up on it. Parts aren't too expensive but waiting for them is annoying. Really want to get her back on the road asap. Bigger worry is actually tackling the work. I bought a project car to learn. Just didn't think it would be this much this early on in ownership.

Hoping the thermostat isn't duff but could be a possibility. Though both of the hoses connected to rad get roasting hot. Would have thought that one would stay closed/cold. Been reading around but getting a bit confused. Would the fan control module have anything to do with the problems I'm having. As after run is turning on, I wouldn't have thought so. I'm going to change the electric fan switch, flush the rad and maybe the engine too. Make sure nothing is blocked. Then fit a new water pump, bleed system with G13 and see if I can get it going. Might just through a new fan control module at it to as you can get from China delivered for a tenner. If not, I guess it'll have to be the payout of the HG :(

Did that check of the fans with the paper clip. Stage 1 and 2 work fine. Then reved it up to test. Fans never came on. When you turn off your engine, fans come on but I am guessing this in independent of temperature? Guessing fans never come on cause it is not registering any temperature at the rad.

Ta jim. Started putting a load of electrical tests together. I'm prob just in denial but don't think it is a HG issue. Got one quote so far to replace it of 690+vat. Gonna get a few more though.

Let temp get up to just over 100 again. Fans never came on. Oil temp was 106. Fans came on when I turned it off. Rad is freezing really quick but the hoses and expansion are roasting for a good while. Could this all be electrical? Bad sensors?

While the top right (enter) is boiling. Would have thought a more even distribution of heat across it.

Got to 85 before face of rad at exit was even slightly warm

Seeing what temp it gets to before bottom right (exit) of rad is hot

Rad getting hot but to me seems strange. Getting very hot where it enters rad but taking a while to move that heat along the whole rad.

The car inside gets like a sauna. Both the pipes to the rad are roasting. Just got the tstat replaced so struck that possibility off the list. If it is the HG, I thought that there would be signs of mayo or oil in coolant? But none of that.

Nearly 100% sure no coolant returning to the expansion tank. When I squeeze the hoses I can see coolant flow into expansion. Coolant temp was near 90 and still no flow back the expansion. Think it could be one of the pumps? Anyone in Glasgow that might be willing to take a look for a good couple of beers?

Tried your airlock solution Jim. Ran it for a short bit squeezing the hoses. Temp hit about 70 and coolant flowed out of expansion everywhere.

Stupid question but if I have it ticking over parked, should I see coolant returning to the expansion tank? I thought I would but newbie :)