Storm Monkey

The best sound absorber (e.g. wadding!) you can easily get hold of is spun fibreglass, as in roof insulation. Rockwool slabs are similar, and easier to handle, as they come in dense-ish slabs, and are available from B&Q, Wicks etc. More credible than going into a fabric shop anyway! You may have to buy a huge amount, but can always re-do the loft with the remainder. My experience is with reducing plant equipment noise levels, but I think it would probably do the job. It will cetainly reduce any resonant peaks and rattles. In fact, I'm going to go stuff mine now! Phil

Yeah, When the suns out and now the house is nearly finished (only taken 4 years) I can finally get round to doing all the things I wanted to do. Finished the Sub install (will post), and the next project will be the suspension. 10 years is a little too long for the original set! Koni and H&R I think! Phil

You sure that wasn't storm grey :wink: quote] Could have been! I'm based in Mountsorrel, but the C is a second car, so doesn't get seen out that often - certainly not in winter (or did I just not notice summer!). Takes too long to wash off afterwards :? I guess I will take a day out at some point and go down to Stealth. It'll be due its next service soon, so might have them do that also, and give it a full check over. It's only 3000 since the last one, but that was 2 years ago. I really didn't think 1500 miles justifies an annual service! Phil

Yep, looks like taking a day out and going to Stelath will be the answer. You're right, diesel is the way forward. There's a guy on one of the Skoda or Seat forums running a Fabia or similar sized 1.9TDI, pushing out 220ish, oh and loads of smoke! Aparently he'll stop when he reaches 260BHP :shock: Phil

I know things are getting tougher, but I'd still like to know she's in good health, and delivering all she is capable of! Compared to the silver VR (I think) tht shot past last thursday (A6 northbound, Barrow/Quorn exit), mine didn't seem too hot. It did sound a little modified though! Phil

Following a nearly embarising event with a golf 2l TDI the other day (left it behind, but not convincingly enough :roll: ), I think its about time to get the old output checked out and see if anything needs to be done. Can anybody recommend a reputable garage around Leicester way (I'm a few miles north of Leicester, half way to Loughborough) that can 1) verify output and more importantly 2) understand the VR6 well enough to be able to sort out any issues, without resorting to chipping it, to get a little closer to what she should be putting out? At the moment, its in totally standard form, and I don't really want to go changing too much, at least not until she's in good running order to start with! Or do I just take a day out and go to Stealth? Cheers, Phil

DIN = Deutsches Institut für Normung. They have specs for everything, your 12V dash power socket, cable specs, steel types. There a bit like SAE or ISO standandards, only German!

Elephant abd bell are the same group, (but quote different prices???) and are both part of Admiral. If direct line are in the same bunch, then it seems theres only one insurance company anyway!

Try asking who is aproved in you're area, it may be the garage you prefere anyway. I am with elephant, but as yet have had no repairs made, so cant help there, but a lot of insurers work off of the same approved garage list. It tends not to be to thier advantage to use dodgy garages, as too many people would complain. My local aproved garage is about the best one around in terms of quality and reputation (even if thay are a ford dealership).

Wont this vary depending on your gear box/transmission efficiency? Just about everything from design, condition, oil type, tyres etc will all have an effect. HP is a function of power and speed. Its a little easier to work in metric for this. power(W) = torque(Nm) X Angular velocity (2 X pi X rpm/60) as far as I can remember. where 1KW = 1.341 HP (NB Audi and VW often use PS, which is around 1.03 HP) and 1lb/ft = 1.3558 Nm. E.g. for the same power, you can get high speed, low torque, or low speed, high torque.

Silly question, but where is it? :roll: Cheers!

Cheers, I will get it checked.

Sorry, plate was 570 RM - so still good for a corrado!

ISV?

On my way home yesterday I noticed an odd problem with the throttle on my VR. It drove OK, but when lifting off of the throttle, it seemed to be very jerky, like the throttle was sticking for half a second, then dropping of quickly - makes for very dodgy gear changes! When we pulled up at a junction, the engine, instead of idling at its usual 650rpm, was reving from 1000 to 1500, then dropping back to 1000, about every 2 seconds. A little later on, just approaching another roundabout, when I lifted off to stop, it just died. It restarted fine, and didn't put a foot wrong the whole way home. I did do this once or twice last year, but I had battery problems at the time, which lead to the imobiliser randomly kicking in, but got that fixed with a new battery. It always seems to do it on warmish days. Also, I have some spare cash burning a hole in my pocket and was going to get the bodywork cleaned up a little (stone chips removed), and have it serviced and checked on a rolling road. Can anyone recomend anywhere around north leicester or Desford? Cheers guys

I noticed S70RM for sale in a magazine yesterday - its still available if anyone has a spare £19 000! :shock: Another one for after the lottery win I think. Removed bold tags from title, as that doesn't work :) -- jimsg60

Don't forget new door cards and handles - you'll have a hole where the old manual winder went through!

Somone gave me a tip once about getting a good surface. When you think you have sanded enough, put a thin layer of paint over (the car colour over a different coloured primer shows up best), and gently sand it down again. The paint will stay in any small defects, and make them stand out so you know where to sand more. I have no idea if this is a good practice, but it does show up the smallest of scratches. Phil

I was reading Autocar, or something similar last night, and it mentioned VW's plans for an 'All New' rear wheel drive 2+2 sports coupe, taking on the Corrado name. The picture was only of the back corner view, so made it a bit difficult to tell what it will look like. Anybody heard anything about it? Just hope it lives up to it older brothers reputation. :D

I fitted a new panasonic to my mk 4 polo (not a corrado I know, but still a VW. It refud=sed to work, nor would the original Sony (incidentally the Sony and panasonic have the aux and permanant power reversed, this might cause youre problem). The fault turned out to be in the aux power supply from the ignition barrel.... Its dead. I had to rewire a new feed, until I get round to fitting a new lock barrel. I'm glad it didnt happen to the Storm though!

To stop sh** sticking, try Autoglyn 'Extra Gloss Protection'.I don't want to sound like an advert, but its damn good. Yon need to get your car waxed/polished, then wipe this stuff on with a cloth. Its a runny clear liquid, and makes the car go hazy and dull to start with. Once youve applied it, leave it for 1 or 2 hours (longer than it says on the tin!) then wipe over with a dry cloth. Its very low effort and leaves a thin polymer coating that fills in all of the microscopic defects in the paint. It seems to spoc cr%p sticking, and makes rain bead up and roll off (like a new car :lol: ). Personally, I dont go near the paintwork with polish or cutting compound, unless there is damage that needs repaired, I just use wax and gloss protection, to add layers, not take them away. The autoglyn stuff isn't cheap, but I'm less than half way through the bottle, and have used it 4 or 5 times, on all 3 of my cars.

If it isn't re-issued, they you can ask for the same one back when you sell it. It helps keep the paperwork simple. Mine used to be VR6 259 - should have bought that too really :(

Hey Guys, I've managed to pick up a few (hundred) stone chips and the odd scratch (Girlfriend, Tree, Car door, not happy :( ), and its about time I got them fixed. Has anybody ever used these spot repair companies (Chips Away, Dentmaster etc) that airbrush over the damage? I've heard that they look good to start with, but the paint is water based, and can faid over a few years. If they are any good, how much does it cost. I have lot that needs fixing (on 3 cars), so would be after some sort of bulk deal. Cheers

Cheers for the comments guys! As for the matts, they were in it when I got it - I assume they were standard kit. Sorry about the double posting. First time I tried, got an error messaage saying it had failed :mad: so tried again, and failed again :roll: . I gave up, only find it went in twice... Hmmmm. Storm Monkey

Hi Guys, Thought it was about time I put some pictures up :salute: . I got the storm about 6 months ago, and was going to run it as my main car, but then couldn't shift the old one, so now It lives in the garage, and comes out to play at weekends (Sunday Driver?) Everything is standard on it, and in pretty good condition. The wheels need some TLC, and it has a few stone chips, but appart from that, Its Bl&*dy marvelous, and standard spec is still pretty quick :D . Its only done about 60K, so i guess I need another one for every day use.