davidwort

shouldn't be, it was only the electrics that got updated in the facelift, different motor so the roof closed with central locking an old style motor should just swap in place.

roadster conversion POA!

if you turn the engine by hand on the crank bolt and line up the pulley marks can you see the flywheel marks OK, if you get a friend to check how far away the flywheel marks are, turning the crank v slowly, exactly how far away are they?

just put in a K&N or Jetex panel filter in place of the original paper filter and then remove the inlet tube from the front of the airbox, don't swiss cheese the airbox as you'll just let warm air in and you'll loose power.

IIRC the estate has a slightly better shaped roof panel for the C, the late passat (facelifted) as you describe has the same sunroof motor and switch as the post 92 corrados but the roof mech itself is the same as all Corrados and drops in easily. good few years back now, but i helped a friend put a passat estate (L or M reg) roof into a Storm, the glass panel on it's own can be swapped, just to see if you like the light and shape of the glass, but to put the blind and trim in you need to remove the headlining in which case it's easier to put the whole passat roof in, something like 10 bolts once the lining is out.

oil pump I hope :wink: only other thing is the tensionner and tensionner bolt on the 2L, as discussed recently in other threads the later 16v's have a different tensionner and the bolt should not be torqued up as tight as the early cars as it's a smaller thread

too little too late? the car went out of production well over 10 years ago now It's your nose, and I'm keeping it till you behave ;) and even if they hit 100% of corrado owners that would be only about 9000 copies of the book which would have to cover 4 almost totally different engines, just not a viable production basically.

for a 16v these are useful: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-PASSAT-PETROL- ... dZViewItem

cables are all the same on all years of corrado.

you can run a cool engine for a while with the aux belts off, that would narrow it down maybe.

the rear mk2 golf/corrado shocks are pretty simple, it's the first sort of job I attempted on my first car, easy to do with limited tools, you just need a flat hard standing area and a jack and axle stands, save you a fortune in labour.

Just to add a bit more info for early gearboxes: I've toyed with the idea of the full mk4 system but it requires dropping the exhaust and a bit of fabrication to fit the mk4 lever and cables, it will all connect up to the Corrado box but you need gearlever and base, cables and shift tower from an 02J mk4 box. What I've done is fit a later corrado/passat shift tower, which mounts the cables one above another rather than side by side on top of the gearbox (bracket) this has a redesigned shift tower that just slots into the 02A box in place of the old one and incorporates a shift weight. It has much less play than the original 'early' 02A shift tower and fits right together with the old cables. All you need is the whole shift tower unit and the big bracket mounted on top of the gearbox from a post 92 C or passat, possibly mk3 golf too. the top version of the selector mech (and bracket with the cables one above another) is the later style and seems to be better, make sure the plastic part (no. 51) on the diagram is in good nick, or buy as new one from VW, these things crack and break up. If your current setup has the cables side by side on the main bracket (no. 42) then you will probably benefit from the later setup, cost me a tenner from a scrappy. two 13mm bolts and the whole shift tower just slides out of the box.

that's like a pin-hole breather, how on earth did that happen???

instructions below from russian VW site, article for 1990 corrado:

yep, it's only the front that need the compressor/clamps done this loads of times, makes no difference if you have lowered springs either.

rear shocks are easy to take apart as you don't need a spring compressor, just put the back on 2 axle stands and undo the bottom shock to beam bolts, carefully lower the rear beam and support slightly lowered, not dropped to the ground, then you can remove the whole rear leg by just undoing the top nuts. Easy to inspect, take apart if needed and put back together, pretty much all you need is a 17mm spanner, and a screwdriver and 8mm socket to take the parcel shelf supprts out with.

biggest is the 16v aircon rad, but the standard short 16v one is very efficient and more than enough for a standard 16v, you just add weight otherwise!

perhaps the drain of oil from the charger makes a difference in hot/cold readings on the G60?

16v cam cover seals always seem to leak, apparently it's the curved sections and half moons that are usually the problem and a bit of silicon sealant here when fitting can help, some manufacturers even specify this for some cars seals. I've done 3 recently and the last fit is the best but still not 100% perfect, VAG OEM seals are no better than FEBI etc... be careful not to over torque the little 10mm bolts, it just squeezes the seals out, I do them lightly nipped up with a blob of loctite on the threads.

I believe blue95 bought one last year, approx 105 quid but if you can get a trader (parts club) discount it's nearer 75 I think, all plus vat. Note: the 16v rad is a specific item to the 16v engine. If you go non vag, many of the rads are intended for carb 1.6 mk2 cars and have fewer cross tubes and are not as efficient although the same external dimensions and fitting. I've run one for a couple of years though and had no problem (50 quid job from GSF) and my car should run hotter from the engine work but is absolutely fine, even on the rolling road. David.

I've had my car over 10 years and regularly dip the oil as valvers tend to burn a bit every thousand miles or so. TBH I've never seen any difference between oil levels when I turn the engine off and wait a couple of minutes to leaving it overnight and checking when cold, it's pretty 'runny' when hot and drains back to the sump fairly quickly, the difference hot and cold wouldn't read right up/down the min and max marks on the dip-stick that's for sure, it's over half a litre.

Is it from the head?, if so, can you isolate it to a particular cylinder, long screwdriver pressed against the head will act like a stethoscope, listen to the end of the handle. It could be a hydraulic tappet, do they make much noise at idle or when starting from cold?, hopefully it's not a valve or piston ring, is the power affected in any way?

you need to make sure all the bushings and washers were fitted correctly in the right sequence and the right way around, they may simply need tightening from inside the boot.

026 103 485A is the original cover, now superceded by 06A 103 485C gasket is 059 103 487 I'd find an old golf or audi 80 one with the rounded grip on the top and buy a new gasket, that older style of cap is less likely to foul the breather hose and spark plug lead on no. 1

never liked those things, they are really inferior to proper industrial carpet cleaners but as far as you headlining goes the gentle sponge clean with a foam cleaner would be less likely to cause damage than battering it with a carpet cleaner nozzle.