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davidwort

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Everything posted by davidwort

  1. did mine when I replaced the track rods the other week, bought FEBI ones from AVS they were geat quality, cheap (big order so I paid no delivery charge) and fitted fine. Depends how siezed your track rod ends are, if they'll come off OK then sliding the boot over is easy. Will need alignment check after though.
  2. sometimes, do them when a bit warm, that helps. Engine dying stuff is usually ignition related though, fuel would be more coughing and spluttering??
  3. davidwort

    Child seats

    we used a M&P primo-viaggio too, the type that has a base that stays in the car and the seat clamps on, ideally you need a flatter seat cushion for these, but it fitted firmly and safely.
  4. always get my dad to do a basic 4 wheel (well 2 really) alignment at the garage he works at, just a basic system that hangs off all four wheels and aligns the front to the back ones, but I've always got the car driving perfectly, no pulling tyre wear etc. Camber adjustment I do with a spirit level and a couple of bolts to space the level off the wheel rims :lol: does the job fine though. I've had Quick Fit etc.. alignment done before for 20-30 quid and they've always done a reasonable job, left the steering wheel slightly off centre though :roll: glad I invested in that 24mm socket :) ...no comments about the 'nut behind the wheel' being the problem thanks!
  5. 'all original' and 100k miles, I'd say it would benefit from new dampers and top mounts, but if the play is only minor then it's not absolutely necessary. With the slightly older style top mounts they seem to exhibit a tiny amount of play after a few hundred miles,it's not until they drop right down/strut top pop up too high under bonnet, that most get replaced. You'll soon feel the car wobble from left to right if the top bearings go and they'll make a clunking too. I'd expect a couple of hours labour to be charged for changing these and that should include wheel alignment afterwards.
  6. painting the inside of an engine doesn't seem like a particularly good idea :roll: :lol:
  7. did you replace the manifold gaskets and what sort of nick were the injector seals in? Do all the usual stuff of checking for sparks etc and test the resistance of the plug leads, disszy cap, rotor arm, plugs themselves and so on. you disturbed a fair few things doing the cam cover and manifold, you could have caused a number of things to fail and vacuum leaks seem quite a possibility.
  8. solid mk2 bodies aren't that easy to come by, you may be lucky and someone wanting to build up a show car or re-shell a GTI or something may be prepared to pay a few hundred quid. As far as the trade would be concerned though it's not really worth anything, having said that, for a private sale anything with 12 months MOT is worth 100-200 quid.
  9. yeah, but the audi rear calipers are for 245mm brakes and are an audi 8A0 part number, whereas the mk3 brakes are passat (226mm) 357 part no.s
  10. It's because the outer CV boot failing could potentially contaminate the brakes leading to brake failure... The inner boot splitting just makes your gearbox messy... That's according to my freindly tester, anyway. yeah, I would need my brakes if the inner CV joint broke because all the grease had been spun out and it corroded :lol:
  11. I guess bleeding with the nipple at the highest point is best to make sure air bubbles get out, although I've often found I need to pressure bleed and doubt in that case it would make much difference to water/muck/air in the lines/caliper.
  12. you'll have a job getting the right camber without cammed camber bolts on a 4 cylinder C that's lowered a lot, I've found you can't really get the negative camber you need, -1 deg IIRC If you look at the hubs on lowered standard cars like the TT using the mk4 floorplan you'll see it's redesigned to keep the correct geometry but lower ride height, you can't expect to lower a car 60mm and not have some handling issues, things like following white lines etc can be a major problem as wishbones are not at the designed angle and can amplify forces from the wheels, add to that large diameter wheels and/or very low profile tyres and everything gets more twitchy and 'followy' of road imperfections.
  13. not so much track rod ends as the inner track rod joint to the rack itself on mine, put the wheels on full lock and gently rock the steering wheel back and forth, any sign on a clunk or feeling a slight knock on the track rod and it may well be the inner joint. New full track rods really improved the tightness of my steering and the original track rod ends had no noticeable play. Interesting point to note is that inner joints on steering and CV's are not MOT fails only outer ones, figure that one out??? apparently an inner cv boot can be ripped to shreds but only outer ones are actually a definite fail.
  14. it'll be just the seals in the rack that have gone, 140 quid seems about right for a recon rack, check play in pump shaft with the belt off, and possibly remove the pressure hose, then unscrew the pressure valve underneath, extract the valve and clean it's tiny gauze filter, make sure the sides of the valve are score free and it moves smoothly in the body of the pump, if all OK it'll be fine.
  15. temp sender is small one behind rhs of head, 'round the corner' from the dizzy, small round top usually, that a female spade connector slides on sideways to. ones on oil filter housing are pressure senders, although some later VW engines, e.g. 1.6 SEAT ibiza, has a small temp sender in the third drilling on later oil filter housings, usually these are blank on corrados though.
  16. OK, I have a KR dipstick and tube but a windage plate incorporating the sump pan seal. The sump is the one off my old KR 2L conversion from TSR, which I assumed was the same part as a KR one, when I compared the KR block to the new 6A one the dipstick tube insert point in the block looked the same even though the bubble block is obviously a different casting. I wonder how far off my oil level reading is?
  17. spacer?? I've got my old KR dipstick in my 6A block, is that bad? - think the dipstick tube was off the old kr block.
  18. that's odd seeing as GVK had a mk4 shifter on his VR6 box, must be an ABF 16v engine thing, Ibiza/mk3 16v and possibly 95/6 passat 16v's.
  19. the KR system is covered in the early pink passat manual and probably in the golf 2 manual too, there's also a bosch injection manual from haynes that covers it.
  20. err, don't know about that, but the roof closes with the windows on the later cars, so I'd imagine you just need an alarm control box to energise that circuit.
  21. needs a tap with a copper mallet I reckon, some come free easy, others seems to have some sealant that sticks them in a bit. for the benefit of early 16v/G60 owners here's what the later and slightly better 02A shift tower looks like. Note: pic below is an L/M reg passat tower in an early 1.8 16v AGC box
  22. no spark - suspect hall sender, haynes passat/golf manual tells you basic checks for this resistance etc. golf 16v ECU's are basically the same, some really old ones have a diff part no. and are in fact better as they have a more agressive ignition advance, they rarely have faults though. fuel, check pump is priming the system, no buzz is not good, they always make a priming noise and buzz when the car is running. If you loosen the fuel supply feed to the metering head with everything turned off and a rag around the banjo you'll loose a little fuel as the system depressurises. tighten it back up again. Turn the ignition on and off a few times and the system should prime up and there will be fuel pressure in the feed to the metering head again all being well. left for 30 minutes there should still be full pressure, in fact it shoul hold pressure pretty much permanently. Lift the metering head up off the air filter - un-clip and check the air plate moves freely and smoothly up, don't force it, but there should be gentle smooth resitance. You may need to get all the system pressures checked with proper gauges should the basic K-jet checks look OK.
  23. Can't see why not, had a mk3 glass roof once and the mechanism was exactly the same design as the early corrado one, albeit with a few minor redesigned parts, motors definitely swappped between the two.
  24. ?????? :scratch: :cuckoo: off at a bit of a tangent, but it made sense to me :lol: , near the bottom of this page on the tuningwerkes site: http://www.tuningwerkes.com/products/vw_corrado.html
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