davidwort

nope, the belt's connected to the ex cam, just make sure you undo/do up the cam caps in order and don't mix them up or turn them around. I'd also replace the cam chain while you're at it, quite cheap and has to come off anyway, if you re-use the cam cover gasket it will leak, if it's not already doing so - rubbish design, I've been told the best way to ensure a good seal is totally clean and free of oil surfaces and then just nip up the bolts, possibly with a bit of threadlock, if you over tighten them the gasket just squeezes out... and leaks.

straight in mate, although the teeth may look slightly different, later ones were changed to make them run slightly quieter IIRC, don't know any reason why you can't mix an old exhaust cam with a newer inlet though.

the only one I can see on their site is the 0-10 bar one, and it does have both connections, one for warning buzzer and the other for a gauge. only other things are the terminations don't seem to be spade connectors like the ones used on VW's and audis generally and it doesn't say which sender it replaces, so you'll have to check the rating marked on the base of it and replace the appropriate one on the car. with the VW ones there are 2 types (at least for the 0-5 bar senders) one replacing the low pressure switch (idle pressure) anf the other that replaces the slightly higher value warning switch for low pressure at cruising speed.

I quite like that, looks like a bigger version of the BMW 1 series rear.

Good dependable engines (as you should know from your mk3), fairly torquey at low revs and the most fuel efficient corrado. They don't exactly fly, but they're not far off a standard 16v. The main issue would be spec, as a run-out model I think they miss things like adjustable steering columns (actually not always a bad thing) and sun roofs (again not always a bad thing!). Depends on the options selected by the original owner a fair bit though. I actually really liked the original 8v alloys.

suppose you could use a passenger side right bolster from an old seat, they don't seem to be different.

mk 4 fan sprays are fitted under the bonnet (if you see what I mean!) if you could get the bonnet holes filled I reckon it would be a great mod.

as supercharged says you don't really need them heated if your screen wash is reasonably concentrated, but if you want to bodge it, then 2 bad heated nozzles make one good one! if you prise them apart it's usually the +ve terminal to the metal nozzle that corrodes, the -ve ones are usually OK, I simply used a spare -ve connector from one corroded jet to fix another one. BTW have you noticed how easy it is to say corroded instead of Corrado :lol:

I've used the VW fully synthetic before, very good stuff and exactly the right spec for the VW boxes, it was just too expensive, but it's now 11 quid a litre which is basically the same as all the other fully synthetics I've found, Mobil, Silkoline etc...

I'd like to see a pic of it on the car when you get it, cheers.

16v injectors? the top hats don't need to be on for them to work OK, mk1 golfs and mercs never had them.

VR6 C is same as VR6/GTI golf 3, 2L C is same as vr6/GTI golf 3 but with mk2 golf tie rods and the early 16v and G60's use the 36 spline input shaft mk2 rack.

original spec was 75W90 GL4, but viscosity varies with brands and that can affect cold changes quite dramatically, the synthetic VW stuff really helps here, I'd go to VW if you only want the mineral stuff as it's only 4 quid a litre, but any other 75W90 GL4 should do, the Halfords shelf-front books have a suggested oil listed.

VW spec oil was originally G50, but this is no longer used by VW parts depts so the number I was quoted yesterday was G052 726 A2 (£4 a litre), that's mineral oil. The synthetic version used in the 6 speed boxes is G052 171 A2 and will set you back 11 quid a litre. 2 litres of both needed. The Corrado uses the same gear cables as the mk3 golf, so I'd imagine you could use either shifter mech.

If you do a search you should be able to find a pic of a few cars with lupo front blades fitted to a corrado rear arm, unfortunately there don't seem to be any mk5 golf style rear arms and blades that are long enough or bend the right way to lie flat, I've looked at the possibility of a twin rear door transporters rear drivers side arm and blade as it does bend the right way, but it's possibly a bit too chunky and has too much of an angled arm.

could be valves in the rack, the valve in the pump or a slipping belt, change the belt/check the tension on it they can slip from splashed water.

As a very rough guide, if you have standard 15" wheels or a wheel and tyre combination about the same diameter as standard then if you can fit only a couple of fingers between the top of the tyre and wheel arch then you are at the minimum sensible ride height for handling - or just look under the car, are the wishbones dead level or slightly pointing up? Ideally they should be slightly pointing down.

signed up yesterday, the server was very slow! there's been about 160,000 new sign up in the last 24hrs alone :) the thing that annoys me the most are the self-righteous politicians saying we'll have an open debate on the matter when what they really want is a debate on how to introduce it, not whether the majority actually want it.

what's your ride height? If a car is lowered more than about 40mm the wishbones will be pointing upwards and this can badly affect handling. A very worn steering rack can also give very bad twitching like torque steer.

from the info I can find this (G052 726 A2 ) is the spec of oil for most mk4 golf gearboxes and is mineral not synthetic and is used where G50 VW oil was originally specified, e.g. Corrado If you have a mk4 V6 or 6 speed and a few of the 1.8T's then the spec is the fully synthetic G052 171 A2 which is a slightly lighter viscosity shouldn't think it makes a hell of a difference, but I did put VW fully synthetic in mine and it was a big improvement when cold over the old oil. VW used to specify the synthetic for 'problem' gearboxes as a cheap fix before replacing a box under warranty, but in recent years it looks like the top performance cars have the synthetic from the factory.

don't cook it whatever you do, there's not much room for skimming the head on a 16v and you don't want to junk the head. Keep a close eye on both oil and water temp, as a guide mine runs about dead on the mid mark for water and at about 100 oil, that's properly set up on the rollers running tesco 99 and with a new (but not VAG) radiator.

What spec/VW code is the gear oil? my local dealer reckons he'll only charge 4 quid a litre for fully synthetic, about the price you paid, so perhaps that's what you've got, great seeing as a few years back they charged me 16 quid a litre! The quantum silver is expensive now though, I got some from GTI international for 10 quid for 5L.

It should be fine, you could drill the top off the tamper proof cap on the back of the warm up regulator and turn the adjuster a small amount (say 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn), drive for a day or two then check one of your plugs, if they start to look a bit sooty then it may be a little on the rich side. If you turn it the wrong way and lean it off it will kill the performance so you'll soon know. IIRC Anti-clockwise reduces control pressure which makes the air flap move more and so it runs richer through the rev range. without test equipment, plugs are your best guide to whether it's running to hot, lean or rich. The 2.0 will generate a bit more heat than a 1.8 but if the engine is run in it shouldn't really be noticeable.

there's no doubt that the original focus drives well, I've had a go in a number of 1.6s and 1.8s and two estates, the ride soaks up the bumps but feels precise and controlled. My main gripe is the interior, it's aweful in grey and little better in black, it's sturdy enough, just feels so cheap, it just doesn't compare to the mk4 golf even slightly. Can see why ford made so much more of an effort with the mk2 focus inside although it's a shame the car got so much bulkier. Judging from a relative's V reg 1800 estate they seem to last pretty well too, the only mishap to date being a nut that fell off the handbrake cable and a tailgate strut that's loosing it's gas slowly.

only mk2 16v rad is the same, not 8v, GSF and ECP sell cheap replacements IRO 50 quid which will do but aren't as efficient or well made as the genuine VW ones which have more cross tubes.