davidwort

:lol: sorry that's very childish :oops:

it just prizes out, usual VW spring tabs either side, just be careful as a screwdriver can take chunks out of the dash. It can be done with fingers, one side then the other.

my Mrs loves driving the C, the other day she proudly announced 'I got up to 140 on this bit of dual carriageway the other week' :shock: It was replacing the boge's with Konis that did it, up to then the boob jiggling hurt too much, not me, her BTW :lol:

sounds fair to me, it's not too difficult a job to remove the front hubs yourself and then get a garage to simply press the bearings on/off for you, but with the front hub nuts needing replacing anyway which are flippin tight, it's best left to a garage if you haven't done it before. I'd also consider replacing the front outer CV boots while the hubs are off, if they are the original ones.

providing the electrical connector is the same fitment (the 2.0 16v corrado ones are different) , slightly different ISV's from audis, golfs and passats will work fine on your car as a temporary test to see if your current ISV is shot. You must be able to find a second hand one somewhere, they're fitted to so many cars.

I thought it would be a public service from you Bally, clearing the roads in MK with your front splitter :lol:

:lol: my little used passenger door handle froze in the open position when my mrs got in the car yesterday, she had to hold the door the mile down the road to her work, it popped back after then for the rest of my journey. Still, the mk4 is worse, the quality 'furry' outer door seals get moisture in them which totally freezes all the door shut if it's been damp/raining and then it freezes overnight, had to pour warm water over the drivers door for 5 mins one time to just get in the car, some things don't improve :lol:

sounds like one side had siezed to give you more lever travel, freeing them off never works for long, only solution is new/recon ones one of mine lasted for about 6 months although that wa through the summer. Very cold temperatures will only make things worse as you say.

OK, OK, I stand corrected... on paper at least. The reality is that even the G60 limited only made 210bhp (16v G60) and to modify a 16v to rev to 8,500rpm isn't going to make it a very drivable road car.

a passat haynes 88-91, pink manual (out of print but a couple of quid off e-bay) covers a lot of the general hardware although obviously the charger and related specific bits won't be covered, but all the gearbox, brakes, suspension stuff is useful. lots of torque settings etc..

a pic would help, it could be a nasty aftermarket roof and not a factory one.

fun discussion, but the reality is that a standard 16v corrado makes just over 130mph on about 140bhp, pretty much the same speed as any modern car with around 140bhp. As the relationship between flywheel power and top speed is a square law, you'd need around 250bhp to make 160mph, not to mention the right gearing. This is the same reason why a VR6 with around 190bhp only tops out at about 10mph more than a 16v despite the 50hp advantage. Even if the engine could rev that high, the VW 16v cylinder head design isn't good enough for that sort of power (normally aspirated) and K-jet certainly isn't. So, I think we can safely say that unless any valver is turboed it's not gonna make 160mph :)

with the gearing in the KR it would have to pull nearly 7500 revs to achieve 160mph! peak power is usually just over 6000 on a KR too.

there's plenty of 16v boxes around, someone was selling one on here yesterday for 50 quid, AGC is the code you want, possibly on passat GTs as well. The 1.8 16v box (AGC) has the closest ratios, the 2L box is a bit longer and a G60 or 8v box will be too long legged.

nice neat job, but can't see the air from there being any colder than the air from around the headlight, unless you've got 1kW bulbs in there.

??? the circuit is only completed at the appropriate temperature, so if you're getting 12v across one path that one's shorted?

£4.95 from GSF doesn't it still have to mix 1/3 : 2/3 water which would mean you need 2 bottles?

350ish miles from a £45 tank that would actually be just over 30mpg then? dunno what's going on with you guys on KE-jet 2L cars, I've yet to get less that 330 miles from a tank and mines only 55 Litres! - I'm curently averageing about 33-34mpg per tank. granted the 16v's aren't the best on short journeys or around town, but I get stuck in my fair share of traffic commuting and when the road does clear I tend to put my foot down. I blame it on the CATs, root of all evil this emissions stuff ;)

Jim, they repeat it at least twice in the week, made my mrs go upstairs to watch ER last week only to find out TG seemed to be on every night later in the week :lol:

Good quality kit, excellent prices, well packaged and fast delivery, got to recommend these guys. Just received my gaskets, boots, tie-rods and engine mounts from them :D

agreed the note change after 4k is lovely and it makes you SOUND like your going fast :lol: at 6,700 revs in 5th gear my 16v is going fast :twisted: I totally recommend removing the snorkel, with a gas flowed head on a 2L the difference at the top end is very noticable, I put it back in a few months back and it just killed the car's ability to pull smoothly to the red line (7,200). Not sure if it makes as much difference on a 1.8. As for drilling the airbox, there's almost as many 16v owners looking for un-butchered air-boxes as there are trying to swiss-cheese good ones :lol:

if you search some of the posts on heater matrixes I think the general conclusion is that VAG ones are now a stronger mk3 revised part that doesn't require the recall by-pass valves (as fitted to the 4 pots at least), the pattern ones are generally OK though, worth pricing them up though, the VAG one should have a 2 yr warranty I think.

I got a pattern part from a local factor for about a tenner for my mk4 and it's behaved perfectly.

Current discussion about removing front strut top bearings and mounts got me thinking, how about a list of special tools needed for working on a Corrado? Here's a start, (added some of the additional comments & items) VW tool or circlip pliers for tensionning cambelt tensionner, 4 cylinder cars (Snap On YA8640, Klann KL-0284-9, VAG Matra V159) VW tool, deep ring spanner, spark plug socket or an impact air gun! for removing strut top mount nuts (VW 3186 (5 stud) and 3078 (4 stud)). Elora make 21/23 and 22/24 very deep offset spanners that are very useful here and 7-mm (original) and 6-mm (some aftermarket) long hex keys are also needed. special slotted socket for removing slotted nut that holds down spring top plate on front suspension leg (Snap on YA8730, VW524) spring compressors for front conventional springs (OEM or aftermarket conventional springs) (Various from any tool supplier, Halfords Saur, Klann, Sykes, Matra etc) special pliers or plumbing wrench/mole grips for removing VW spring type water hose clamps (Snap On HCP 10 or VAG1921) 17mm hex key (or a wheel bolt with a thin 17mm spanner on it) for gearbox fill/drain plugs (Any decent tool supplier) spline bit set for headbolts and driveshaft flange bolts (M12 and M8 respectively, again from any decent tool supplier) extra long 3mm allen key for adjusting CO on metering head (1.8 16v only) [and for the 9A basic adjustments] (Snap On) a huge breaker bar (and preferably a scaffold pole on the end of it) to remove front hub nuts (Any decent tool supplier) caliper wind back tool for servicing rear brakes (Various such as Sykes Pickavant from Halfords and other Sykes agaents.) torque wrench, for head bolts, suspension bolts, wheel bolts, brake calipers etc. 20-200NM approx suggested (Any tool supplier - quality ranges from Argos at the bottom to Snap-on etc.) brake bleed kit (Any decent tool supplier) Digital multimeter (Any decent tool supplier, Sykes Pickavant do a good range specifically for automotive use) Good hammer (and a copper headed mallet for those metal items you don't want to destroy) torque wrench that'll do 15Nm for knock sensor tip-ex for timing marks! mirror for doing g60 inlet/exhaust manifold bolts when leaving the head on (nightmare and nuisance) jubilee clips to replace the horrid spring clips 8T torx head for removing the circuit board from the gauge cluster (if doing DDI gauges) telescopic magnetic pick up for those dropped washers, nuts, bolts and screws. (Snap-on do a cool one with an in-built LED light on the end) for the more complex jobs: Vag rear Axle bush tool kit T3111 - Corrado Die is part 3111/9 (we're talking big bucks here!) VW cable change gear selector alignment tool (VW?) clutch alignment tool (Any decent automotive tool supplier) crank (cambelt pulley) face resurfacing tool - for those sheared pulleys (VW?) fuel pressure gauge with unions to fit as needed

is that using a multi (4?) pin temp sender?, some of the mk4 VW ones are notorious for failing or providing intermittent signals.