davidwort

no, golf 2 parts originally, but from what I can see the mk3 bits are basically the same too, pretty much everything (corrado and golf 3) starts with a 191 part number, which is mk2 golf.

they didn't do too badly, as the mk5 golf has the same drag coeff.

I've never really been able to tell if they are on or not, the output is so bad, only time they were any use was in a real 'pea-soup-er' when they did light up the kerbs a bit better so I could see the edge of the road - which I guess is what they are for! They are definately pretty cack compared to a lot of cars though, but that seems to be a VW traight, my mk4 lights are no better :roll:

whale tail :)

1.8 16v box has the highest ratio box of the Corrados, more than the 2.0 16v too, mainly down to the final drive ratio. If I can get problematic wheel spin in 2nd from a tuned valver I'd imagine a lower revving torquier engine would be grim.

doesn't sound too bad to me, not the most fun job in the world, I've heard some cheap bearings can fail early though, I'd go for VAG or at least OEM quality ones rather than just the cheapest you can source.

apart from the bits that are different to european spec vehicles :wink:

1.8 16v Corrado box has about the lowest and closest ratios of the 02A cable change boxes, I suppose it's possible that a van of some kind might use the 02A type box and have lower ratios still, wouldn't know though.

Get a long straw down the dipstick tube? perhaps I'm missing something??? just get a drain pan or washing up bowl etc, under the sump and undo the sump plug, as long as you do it when the engines not hot, you'll easily be able to turn the last few threads by hand and gently remove the plug a few mm to let a bit of oil out. Might trickle up your arm though :)

:? drain some out?

Koni's info is so confusing, I ended up receiving inserts instead of complete legs. You do need the short version from what I remember, as the standards will be designed to work at the appropriate length for standard springs.

The correct VAG gasket is metal and was quite reasonable when I sourced one from a VW dealer, price one up. Buy the stretch bolts from GSF or similar, should be around 2 quid each from a factor. Make sure you get the correct inlet manifold gasket (between two halves) should be a 42mm one on the Corrado, and depending on whether you remove the manifold from the head or manifold from downpipe you'll need exhaust gaskets or a downpipe gasket. Removing the manifold from the head (or the manifoild from the downpipe) can be a pain as studs can come out of the head or break and downpipe bolts are hard to reach. It's not a massively difficult job, just a bit time consuming. Might as well do a new timing belt and tensionner pulley while you're at it.

If the head's on the engine and running sound then leave well alone, the minor differences between the ports on the 1.8 and 2L won't make much power difference if any, it's even possible the 9A head will even be very slightly better for low end torque.

you can buy re-con ones, so it must be possible, never heard of anyone doing anything other than exchanging them though, mk3 golf ones can be used and are better, mk4 even better, but the latter need different hoses too.

yeah, audi 4 stud is different. My dad used to have a 1.8 carb A80, bit of a boat, but is was very well screwed together and very comfy to drive, only thing was the steering position isn't great and wheel is a bit off centre of the drivers seat IIRC Never rot away as it's body is galvanised. Boot is point less though, why on earth did they put the petrol tank behind the rear seat and leave a narrow deep boot :?

mk3 golf, passat 1988-1997 and transporter 1991-2003 have the same part: 1J0 955 119

you can free it off with WD40 etc, but don't expect it to last for long, might do a few months.

siezed caliper handbrake release mechanism you mean, the end of the cable just un-hooks from the caliper, once siezed, the caliper will always re-sieze soon even if freed up. Your ABS light might be a dodgy ABS sensor, interrogating the fault codes would tell you, laptop and vag-com, or other fault code reader needed.

according to ETKA they've all got the same part numbers from chassis no. 50-K-000 001 onwards, which I think is the first RHD corrado, as mine is a 1990 with a chassis no of -L- which is after the ETKA start number.

I'm pretty sure the answer is yes, rear dampers and parts are identical, front's may have a different top mount and bearing, but mk2 owners use the early corrado/passat ones as an upgrade, although having said that the ETKA info below shows the same part number. The main problem would be the incorrect springs for a lighter front end on the golf I'd have thought.

General consensus seems to be get a genuine VAG one from the VW dealer, worth that little bit extra. The ECP ones seem to be going after a year in some cases. May be because they are a general fitment type rather than an OEM part specifically for the 2L 16v.

I'd do it soon, standard shocks will not last long with lowered springs, they're just not designed to work at that length constantly. I'm pretty pleased with the top adjustable Koni's for dampers, even though I have the harder Eibach springs, that combination is far better than the standard or boge uprated dampers the car used to have with the Eibach's, amazing how much more comfortable good dampers that suit the spring rates are, worth spending that bit more.

Glad it went on OK Matt, I still find mine a bit too noisy at full throttle, but it's done me well. David.

Thats what i always thought. K ('93) reg onwards. In theory yes, if it was made with a CAT it should be tested with the CAT emissions levels, in practice most MOT testers will just go by first registered date and if it has no CAT in the system they'll test it using the non CAT emissions standards.

I've been in a VR6 with an early bonnet before, they do fit, but then again the engine does hit the bonnet from time to time as you drive, that was with new VAG mounts.